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Earlier this year a forum member sent me a 1076 grip which he was sold in error. I can not give him proper credit since I have lost our correspondence. What he sent proved to be a “Palm Swell grip. I now have the three styles of side decocker (SD) grips and the Hogue grip for comparison. The Hogue Grip, although made for the slide safety (SS) models is easily converted for the SD models. (Thanks to another forum member for that information.)
IMO the S&W grips for the SS & SD models are essentially the same except for the decocker recess.

The photos show the straight back grip (SB) on the left, palm swell (PS) in the center, arched back (AB) on the right.
Dimensions:
Straight Palm. Arched
Side panel thickness .150’ .210” .150”
Maximum width front to back 1.89” 1.97” 2.05”

The side panels of these three grips are curved front to back, the high point of the radius is about at the center line of the side panel, very similar to a 1911.

The Straight Back Grip is flat in all vertical dimensions, very similar to a 1911 with flat mainspring housing.

The Palm Swell Grip (PS) is slightly concave in the back where the web of the hand fits, the palm swell is constant from the butt up to the hand web/index finger location when the side panel thickness reduces to .150” from .210”. It would seem that the PS grip might result in a shorter reach to the trigger if so it is immeasurable.

The Arched Back Grip (AB) is very like a 1911 with arched mainspring housing, its side panels are vertically flat.

The Hogue side panel is slightly thicker than Palm Swell along it’s vertical center line and the grip does not recurve toward the rear but stays thick so that it is about .250 near its back.

It seems to me that the S&W designers of the SB and AB grips were trying to get the same feel and pointing as the equivalent 1911 grip. I have arched mainspring housings on all but one 1911, they naturally point for me. I do not like the SB S&W grip, with it installed my natural point is always low.

Hogue Grips: I am including a photo comparing the Hogue on my 1076 with My SIG P220 SSE, these two grips, other than the material are nearly identical. Same size, shape, length to trigger, etc.

I would be glad to do any other measurements which interest members, though it’s a complex shape to measure.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

Nice job, thanks.

Excellent post, oldRoger.

I too have all three type S&W grips for my 1026 and 1076 pistols. After giving them all a try, I settled on the standard straight grip for them. Next in order of preference for me is the arched grip. The FBI palm swell grip I like the least.

While on the subject of these grips, I can't for the life of me understand why the FBI insisted on this grip for their 1076 pistols. If anything, this grip exacerbated the problem some agents reportedly had controlling their 10mm pistols. In my experience, unless you have large hands, the palm swell grip is more hindrance than help and I believe those agents with smaller hands would have benefited from one of the two narrower grip types available.

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

XTrooper, I am not certain what problem is solved with the PS grip either. I had thought perhaps the designer was trying to make something similar to a revolver grip, but it certainly didn’t work out that way.
I currently have Hogues on my 1076 and 4566. I am going to put the arched grip on one of them for the next range trip. I want to see if fast double/triple taps are better with one or the other. I have never been able to convince myself, a little shoot-off may do it.

I have never seen anything written about what sort of hand shape (or mental hang-up?) causes us to pick the flat or arched mainspring housing. More study is needed; I should apply for a Government grant.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

Outstanding! I have time on my hands and would be happy to hire on as your assistant.

P.S.- FWIW, I prefer and use flat mainspring housings on all my 1911-type pistols, as well.

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

Do you think we could get stimulus money? I would have to work green and climate change in somehow.

The old test was to take your shooting stance, put a small target on a near wall then repeatedly aim the gun with your eyes closed. If the guns grip and your hand position were correct, your sights would be correctly aligned when you opened your dominant eye, or nearly so. Using that criterion, my front sight is always low with a flat mainspring housing, nearly dead on with the arched.
My first 1911 had an arched housing (still has) and this may all be muscle memory.
All of the SIGs that I have handled, admittedly not many, have the same general shape as the one pictured, which might be uncomfortable for you.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

I carried rubber hogues for several years on duty with my CQB until I started experiencing misfires during training after I got my CQB back from SW (I was flattening the firing pin) and I sent it in for a check up.

Anyway I gripped it with a death grip (tight) and the older rubber hogue fatigued and I was squeezing the grip to cause interference with the hammer strut.

I cut a clearance notch but it made the grip even more flexible in that area so I went back to original SW slipperies.

I could never get a good feel for straight or curved backstrap and I smoothered them with skateboard tape to ensure a positive grip for patrol carry.

I was then made aware of the palm swell for frame mounted decockers.

I ordered one and it has been on my gun ever since. since I have large hands, it fills it out more on the side better for me.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

I ended up modifying my hogue grips for my 1076. I like the way they fit, bettter then the palmswell version at least. On the other hand I put the hogue slip on grip on my 1066 to better fit my hands.

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J.D. Roy

I am not fond of these straight grips on my 1086 and loved the PS that was on my 1006 that I sold like an idiot.

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Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

old navy;
As far as I know, S&W still has the arched version of the 1076 grip available, I would imagine that you will have to specifically ask for the 1076 grips, there will be a gap where the decock lever is supposed to be but its hardly noticeable and certainly not a mechanical problem. I don’t think the palm swell grips are available, if that is what you want, you could try a wanted post in the classified..

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

I got a pair from S&W about a year or so ago for a 1006 I had the time. Hogue still makes them, but without the S&W logo and they have wood grips also available.

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Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

When last I ordered from S&W, a few months ago they had only the arched and the straight.
Hogue (rubber) grips which I have on my 1006 & 1076 are quite deferent from the S&W grips, (see photos and measurements above), I think better for a larger hand.

I would like to try the Hogue wood grips mounted on my 4566. But it’s kind of expensive just to see if I like the fit.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

Hogue used to sell "Seconds" at a discounted price.

"Seconds" did not make the cut.

I bought one at one time for my then 4506-1. glad I tried them first at a cheaper price as I did not like them. too large with no give (used to rubber)

my buddy at that time got him some seconds for a 3913 and those felt good.

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if you're gonna be a bear...

oldRoger,

I can tell you from experience that the difference in feel between the Hogue rubber and wood grips is tremendous. The rubber grips feel very good, not too big for me but maybe just on the verge of being too big. But I tried a set of Hogue wood grips recently on my 4566 and they were huge. I couldn't believe how thick they were, nor could I understand why they were made that way. I'm very glad I tried them without buying them. I finally settled on the 1076 palm swell grip as perfect for me. Midway has the palm swell in stock very cheap.

They are made that way to prevent breakage from the slide slamming and small drops and such.

One of the minor things I didn't like about the 1086 was the small grip and the 1006 with the palm swell grips was still a tad small for me. The set I tried that were on a 4506 really felt good size wise but I can imagine how it would whack the hand if one was shooting with them on. I just use the woods for looks, even on the revolvers.

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Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

You could also try the hogue hands all grip slip-on. They aren't that expensive and might end up filling in the extra space. I know they make all the difference in the world for me. Just be careful sliding them on they can tear easily.

At least I can show off my 10mm 3rd gens.

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J.D. Roy

I have a brand-new, unused FBI palm swell grip I'd be willing to sell if anyone is interested.

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

N-Frame;
Thanks for the information, I like the Hogue rubber grips but I wouldn’t want them any larger, so I will stick with the rubber.
I have a SIG P239 for carry, the SIG Forum guys said that the Hogue wood was a bit smaller than the OEM wood, I tried them and they were a bit smaller, it has a loooog double action trigger pull and the little bit helped.
Roger

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

The problem I have with using the 1076 gips is the relief in the grip for the decocker looks funky.

Nice cool morning here today, I may go shoot some lead down the range with a couple of 10's after the grandsons are off to day care.

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Cranky Old Retired USN Guy

Are there instructions for modifying the Hogue grip for frame de-cocker models? I am sure it can be done, but how to do it well?

It is not hard to do well, 99% of the cutting is hidden.
In a long ago posting a member told me to get out the Dremel Tool put the old grip in front of me and start whittling away on the inside of the new one trying it as I went. He estimated 15 minutes; I would say he was right on, not including the time it took me to find the bits I wanted to use. My tool area is suffering from an excess of tools and a paucity of organization.

As a side now I have Hogues on all of my third generation S&Ws and my M3913.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

Thanks for this thread!

I picked up a pair of 10XX grips this weekend for my Melonite 4566. It came with the strait back grips. I shoot low with it using those grips.

The Hogues, which I have and like on my other pistols, just don't work for me on this one.

I'm going to put the 10XX grips on it tonight. i'll let you all know how it works out. Thanks again for the great info! Regards 18DAI.

Bumping this to the top since the subject has come up recently and people are asking question. Very good comparison thread thanks to OldRoger.

Love the new well new to me soft rubber Pachmayr slip-ons.
On my Hogue Tulipwood grips.

Resurrecting the older and excellent thread! I'm having no luck finding any grips for my 1076. S&W doesn't even sell the original factory grips. I'd like Hogue arch back or something like that. I have the factory original straight grips which don't fit my hand well, I'm looking for more of a 1911 feel. Any suggestions?

Excellent thread. I have a 4536 on layaway & have been trying to find some arched back grips. I'm going to guess I can modify a set of 4516 the same way as noted above?

Has anybody modded a set of wooden grips for the frame decocker?

Personally I prefer the Hogue Grip, a thing of beauty it may not be but it fits my hands. The rubber has a better feel to me than the hard plastic originals.
The modifications for 1076 decockers are not difficult, while the result of this modification would not pass the Hogue factory, it is hell for practical.

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Ipsis Rebus Dictantitbus

I just got these hogue grips on my 1006. I really like the checkering for a secure grip. Only downside is the extended slide stop had to be removed and went back to stock for now. Mybe I'll get ambitious with the dremel sometime soon.

I didn't even swap out the hardware (no pin removal, etc.) they lined up perfect and I just screwed them on. Any issue with this? After reading some posts, it seemed too easy...

Attached Images

IMG-20120218-00036[1].jpg (130.6 KB, 116 views)

Do you still have the 3 different style 1076 grips? Would you sell them?

Thanks,

Ron

Do you still have them? I wwould buy them if you do.

Thanks,

Ron
email: [email protected]