Dear Smith & Wesson;

I been testing Moly in every application were constant metal to metal contact is occurring between mating parts. I find the moly lube in rotating parts to run cooler where heat in the past has been a problem. I tried moly in every metal to metal contact situation from building drag race engines with tripple valve springs with high lift, long duration camshafts that have a shorter life span because of extreme pressure. I found the camshafts lasted longer with the rest of the valve train and engine parts. I've used it Yellowttone dirtbike racing engines and found out during the refresh tear down I replaced less parts due to no wear on the pistons and cylinders. I just changed the rings which probably didn't need it.
Now comes the guns. Adding moly to the trigger sears it lessened the trigger pull up to 50% right away and less as it worked into the pores of the metal. The gun felt like a expensive trigger job was done on it. It even smooths out the trigger and the action too. Moly can make the roughest action feel smooth in any gun.
I often wondered why our military isn't using it?

Moly
Eliminates all wear
Doesn't attracts dirt
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays were we apply it.

Moly can be burnished into the metal to metal contact mating parts while it's apart using a soft rag. Then I wipe off the excess moly then apply just a little moly on the area when assembling. This gives the moly a head start on eliminating wear etc. Or you can just Burnish the moly into the mating parts and assemble it.

I find that moly can improve the performance of any action on any gun. I'm just surprised that no manufacturer or gun magazine has never talked about moly and what it can do for your guns performance too.

I been using moly since 1970 and my guns never leave home without it. You should test moly in your performance center.
I would suggest the moly paste because it has a higher % of only in it.

I use the 301 Moved Permanently (company) I use the TS-70 moly (product). If you want performance from a lube this is the lube your looking for.

After applying moly to your gun it might feel tight at first. But cycling the gun by hand it will wear in and loosen up. If it doesn't loosen up you have too much only in it. It's a learning process on how much moly to use too. Just a little moly will do.

I have nothing to do with the sales or manufacture of moly my fight is seeing guns wear out before there time and seeing guns preform better by using a better lube.

Thanks. Bigbill

Have you tried Dry Moly lube (such as CRC 03084 – Dry Moly Lube)?

I was curious if the dry lube would eliminate the concern/potential of attracting/holding dirt and other contaminates in the Moly fortified anti-sieze or "grease" lubricants.

I have not had a chance to try the Dry Moly lube, but I have been considering it.

You can burnish the moly paste into the mating parts then wipe off the excess. Then assemble it. Moly doesn't attracts dirt.

I use moly in my 1911. I find it easy to clean after an outing to the range too. I take a soft rag and wipe out the slide and frame and barrel. I use solvent inside the barrel only. I then reapply moly and assemble. I do not use solvent inside the slide and frame so I don't remove the moly that's burnished into the pores of the metal. The moly is still present after shooting it. With a 1911(example) I put moly on the slide and frame rails, on the barrel and barrel bushing. Plus the recoil spring and the FLGR if it has one. On the trigger sear too.

Go for the gusto and try the paste just once.

Thanks for the feedback.

If you take four pieces of 2"x2"x1/4"thick steel flat stock that's clean from all burrs ans filed gently to make sure it's flat rub two pieces together to feel the friction. Now take the other two pieces and apply moly work it onto both pieces together. Now seperate them wipe off the excess only and rub them together again. Then rub the plates together without moly.
This is a hands on test of the mating parts without and with moly applied.

You be the judge.