I think we all get your point, which is the erroneous assumption all of the trigger pull is in the striker....as the previous poster pointed out, even with slide removed, you can tell how much extra the sear springs are adding by pressing on the disconnector hump on the trigger bar while pulling the trigger...it is a CONSIDERABLE amount, in a system which has poor mechanical leverage to begin with by design, and then decreased leverage and drag caused by the striker tail bearing hard on the sear which cams on the interior of housing now under increased friction load, PLUS the added weight of the striker spring. And rest assured, the more spring tension on the sear, the more friction is acting on sear/striker interface, and the harder the trigger pull will be.....this is why most any trigger job on most any gun includes a reduced power spring acting on the sear.

You are correct in pointing out messing with sear springs messes with reset....you are correct that messing with striker springs would give light hits, which is why most folk are not touching it....you are incorrect that lightening the stack-up under the sear would not and could not effect total pull....again, all you have to do it do as previous poster pointed out to see what can be reduced.

As for reset being a danger, i would hazard that the majority of posters here do not carry on a regular basis, or carry something smaller on a regular basis, and use the Sigma for a house gun and range gun, where the most serious danger is the greatly increased chance of inadvertant firing of the gun due to lightened pull, even more so during the less common times they actually carry the thing.....NOT the slim-to-none chance of most people ever being involved in a gunfight plus the sear choosing that moment to give problems. All the arm-chair commando talk aside, 99.9% of posters here or anywhere else have never drawn a gun with intent to use it, and 99.999% of posters here or anywhere have then been fired on or fired on someone else. Those of us that have also know 90% or more of the time, drawing a gun ends the problem right there, much less firing it. It's a different story for a front line soldier...to a far smaller degree a law enforcement officer...and to an incredibly small degree to the average civilian....you have better chance of being struck by lightning 9 times on Monday Jan 27, 2012 than of being in a gunfight AND having your gun malfunction.

Those of us that have carried for decades and generally carry something the size of a Sigma or larger (and the Sigma IS compact by classic gun standards), probably won't mess at all with the trigger aside from perhaps smoothing, as we know a safetyless gun NEEDS a heavy trigger to stay safe...

As for the people trying to work the trigger for tinkering, why not? Personally, i find all the folk working on ANY of these type guns, whether M&P/SW99/Glock/SD/XD/etc to try to improve pull and smoothness rather amusing....the guns were made to be easily manufactured, with bare minimum of polishing and fitting, from incredibly inexpensive/cheap materials such as stampings and plastic, and try as you might, you will never get the zero take-up, breaking icicle, zero overtravel, friction-free classic pull from a classic gun because you are not dealing with large glass-hard surfaces with razor-sharp edges acting directly off trigger and directly on what fires the cartridge....but you CAN make it better...if you think a smooth running bic lighter is what makes a good lighter...but these never will be the gun as an art form...they are guns as the disposable tool.