ferilmerril,
Love that photo! You guys look like you are about ready to be "up-to-no-good"!
growr sez:
"I changed the nipples from original to ones made by Treso and use Remington #10 caps as they go on and seat fully with ease and also STAY on after firing which was a HUGE improvement for me.
I no longer put any grease over the ball as a sealant, but instead use a wonderwad and then seat a .454 ball that when being seated is shaving off a small ring of lead thus sealing the cylinder....no more grease running all over my pants and holsters!!"
Dead on with that advice. I have found that what ties up the cylinder is not the fouled cylinder base-pin but the fouled front of the cylinder. I brush off the face after each cylinder full. A cap-n-baller will run for quite while on that.
I have been shooting percussion revolvers ever since 1972 and have shot and owned probably all of the different variations available except the Lemat.
It takes a list of specialized tools, some home-made, to properly clean them but with the correct tools and cleaning solutions I can clean a cap-n-ball in 45 minutes and a modern smokeless revolver in about 30. Not a big difference. The key is getting the proper cleaning tools and solvents. I use half-n-half Windex-with-vinegar and water. Although I still think soapy water with a clean rinse works the best.
Percussion revolvers with the correct loads and a good gun can shoot into 2 inches or less at 25 yards. I have also seen some really poorly machined and fitted cap-n-ballers shoot very well.
I only shoot black powder and will always stay with that.
Make well sure you have on old clothes when you shoot and when you clean them. You will get "greasy-black"!
I also shoot about six conversion clones with black-powder but that's another thread some day.........
