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Old 02-01-2012, 12:43 AM
gsparesa gsparesa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Sackett View Post
First off, take a breath! WOW!

I will tell you this, there is NO WAY POSSIBLE that H110/W296 is going to blow up your gun, NO WAY!

Sticking a bullet and then following it with a full charge? Oh yeah.

H110/W296 is not to be reduced more than 3% over the maximum load.
When I start out I ALWAYS use the powder manufacturer's data because they for sure have pressure testing equipment. Maybe Hornady does, maybe they don't. Bullet manufacturer's get the last consideration when it come to loads. They get first consideration when it comes to impact and BC and what I want to hunt and want to hit at a certain distance. Then I pick a powder to get me there.


Ignore is a strong word. Think of it as using a different source.

H110/W296 is one of the go to powders for this and other magnum handgun rounds. It just will not work if it isn't at the top of it's pressure range. That being said, the top of that range is lower than most other powders but it gives higher velocity.

If you want a suggestion. You should have started with 38spl type loads and got some experience under your belt before venturing into the magnum territory. Just me.

H110/W296, they are the exact same powders only put in different bottles per the manufacturer, is a great powder. If you want a powder that has a less finicky pressure range, try 2400. While you can reduce it more than H110/W296 and not get into too much trouble, it certainly will not perform as well as it can at the top ranges of it's pressure either.

Powders just seem to work much, much better when they are at their respective optimum pressure.

At 22grs, how much more could you get in a case if you wanted to? Not that you should, just if you could and still seat a bullet? Not enough to get the firearm to test pressure, and certainly not with that light of a bullet.

Personally, I would load 6 of 3 weights. 21gr, 21.5gr and 22.0gr, seat the bullet in the crimp groove or cannelure and crimp the snot out of it, shoot them real slow and listen for a squib and go from there. Got a chronograph? If not, get one. It will tell you a lot about being close to a dangerous threshold. Wide ES and SD numbers are an indication that something isn't right with the load.

Have fun, be safe!
I think siding with the powder manufacture is a wiser decision because they make the stuff that goes "boom" and therefore a greater liability. I plinked with 38 specials and thought about starting there. I decided that wasn't the round I was going to use for home defense (HD) and I didn't want to waste any money or range time there. I do know that a chronograph measures bullet velocity but what is the definition for the ES and SD numbers?
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