LEE hand loaders .38 special

I started with a Lee Handloading kit...

The Lee handloader only neck sizes. It is possible that if you use brass not fired in your gun, it may not chamber. Have someone full length resize your brass. My loader came with a dipper which loaded 3 grains of Bullseye and I used a 158gr rn lead bullet and a regular primer. Also loaded some wadcutters with the same load.

Around 1979/1980, I got my first 357 revolver, a Ruger Security Six. With it, a Lee Handloading kit. Spent many hours with that introduction into handloading/reloading.

As is mentioned above, the Lee kit only neck sizes the brass, and as I found out the hard way, if the brass wasn't fired in MY gun, it sometimes would not load into the cylinder. Lee used to offer a Full Length Resizing die for these kits, in some calibers; I bought one and used it and it made things much better!

I have used many different presses over the years, but just this year bought Lee Handloading kits for the calibers I still load, one being 38 Special. I loaded 30 rounds with the Lee kit and 30 rounds on my Lee Turret Press with Auto Disk Powder Measure. The scoop in the Lee Loader threw 2.8 Grs. Bullseye, while the Auto Disk threw 2.7 Grs. With a 158 Gr. cast SWC, this made for a nice light target load. No difference in Point of Impact or group size/accuracy. All 60 rounds blew out the X-ring of a standard 25 yard pistol target shooting from 15 yards.

Yes the Lee Loader is slow and loud using a plastic mallet for all the functions. But in my case, I wasn't going for speed, just the pleasure of "doing it again, because I wanted to".

On a budget, this can be a way to get started and find out if you REALLY want to get into reloading. A step up in a bench mounted press would be a Lee "C" type Reloader press at about $28 online; plus a set of dies and at least a scale and loading manual. A Lee Turret Press w/auto index will get you into the 250-300 rounds per hour area without actually being a "progressive" press.

Just be careful, be mindful of what you're doing and don't get in a hurry! Reloading can be fun, relaxing and rewarding! :)
 
Some terms being tossed around here, but we have to know exactly what you're talking about. A Lee Loader is the "whack-a-mole" type used with a mallet. The Lee "Handloader" is the "nutcracker" tool that uses egular 7/8-14 dies. Bottom line, if you have the "Whack-a-mole", Lee Loader, you can get by by reading the instructions and the load data supplied with the tool, but you will need a reloading manual, so get one too. If you have a Lee "nutcracker", Hand Reloader, then you need a reloading manual for load data. The Lee loader is a complete kit with all tools needed to make ammo, whereas the Lee Handloader is just a hand press using/needing all other tools, dies, etc. I have both (5 Lee Loaders and one Lee Hand Reloader).

I started with a Lee Loader only, in 1969 and quickly got a scale, then built my reloading inventory from there. I soon got a single stage, bench mounted press, dies, powder measure, and assorted tools needed to make safe reloads. But foremost is at least two (and the more the better)published reloading manuals.

The lee Loader full length sizes handgun/straight sided brass, and neck sizes bottlenecked cases. Some all the Lee Loader clumsy, primitive, and slow, but the 1,000 yard accuracy record was held by a shooter using ammo assembled with a Lee Loader and there's a feller on youtube that assembles a complete rifle round in less than 1 minute.Reloading with a Lee Loader - YouTube
 
I'll bet there are a lot of us hangin' around here who started out with a lee loader. The card in the box has adequate information for a few loads that will be safe and sometimes incredibly good. Way back in the early '70s the lee supplied information was good enough to convince me that handloaded ammo is at least as good as factory, and often times, much better.
The dipper in the kit was calibrated for use with specific powders only, and sometimes boys would make an unpleasant error with it.
You can buy a complete lee dipper kit that comes with a 'sliderule' kinda thing that matches a dipper with nearly every popular powder you can get. All the dipper charges are well within the safe range for pressure, and will make reliable loads.

ps. 'Whack-a-mole' sizing is the coolest term I've heard all week.
It fits. I never was too fond of beatin' on the case to resize it. Wasn't long before I went to a standard single stage setup.
 
You still need a scale....

The dipper in the kit was calibrated for use with specific powders only, and sometimes boys would make an unpleasant error with it.
You can buy a complete lee dipper kit that comes with a 'sliderule' kinda thing that matches a dipper with nearly every popular powder you can get. All the dipper charges are well within the safe range for pressure, and will make reliable loads.

This is true but the Lee Dippers are notoriously conservative in what the slide rule says (which makes sense). If you really want to know how much powder you are loading, do check the dippers against a scale. Again, a Lee balance costs about $25.



PS It's good that you are starting with .38 special. Those are easy.
 
About how much does it cost per round for powder, bullet, and primer?

Currently I'm spending about 13c per round, not counting brass.

I've never met any shooter who actually spends LESS on shooting. Instead what they do is shoot MORE for the same amount. Typically we go to the range with an expensive box of ammo or two and think "I'd better call it quits, this is getting expensive". So you start reloading. You take SIX boxes to the range instead of two. Same cost but a LOT more shooting practice.

It's only LESS expensive if you compare the cost of factory rounds to the same amount of reloads. But I don't think many people do that.

Certainly worthwhile though. I'd sure rather shoot 300 rounds instead of 100 every time I go to the range.


Sgt Lumpy
 
Back
Top