free-floating the M&P 10

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4mer03e5

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looking at free-floating my M&P 10 thinking Troy TRX-308 or similar also what height of low-pro gas block needed? from what I have read this can vastly increase accuracy over longer distances, yet still retain the "big-bore combat rifle" use factor I bought this for in the first place. Would like the pickitinny rails to match in height (another post here mentioned useing low-profile only to match up..) I'm not gonna hang a bunch of aftermarket stuff to this rifle, thinking floating it, poss. optics (ACOG's make me drool!), nicer stock like Magpul PRS .308 and a nice bipod (harris? suggestions?)
 
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now THAT is what i'm talkin' about! thanks fellow veteran!!
 
I am currently in the process of doing the same to mine as you desire. I bought a trx rail used off here, its an lp and matches perfectly. For the gas block I decide to go with troy's , the dia is .75. I have heard of others that do not have good clearance. Not sire which scope and stock I am going with, I am thinking the Nikon 308 but not sure, I want longer distance than the acog will give. For bipod i picked up a cheap utg for now. I'll post pics soon.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
I ended up going with a JP modular 15" on mine and really like it. But if you want to run a top rail, the JP setup would be higher than the rail on the upper. I'm not running a top rail so it wasn't a problem for me. I got a syrac adjustable gas block and it fits inside the JP with plenty of room to spare.
 
TRX 308 13.8 all the way with a troy 7.5 low pro gas block.

beautiful combo. and looks amazing on my rig.
 
TheBigLebowski said:
Ive read a few horror stories about the troy trx "wiggling" so to speak, or moving causing the sites to be impossible to keep accurate, can someone please speak up on this? I am just about to order and then read the bad reviews here Troy Industries TRX Extreme Battle Rail Modular Free Float Handguard
Click to expand...

The TRX uses a similar lock-up method to the MI rail in that they both use clamp force to secure the handguard to the barrel nut. Both can come loose and I've seen it happen to both. That's why I modded my MI the way I did. Bulletproof now. Pretty much anybody's low profile gas block will work. I used MI because I got a package deal with the handguard. You just need one that is 0.750" inside diameter, which most are.

ASH556 said:
Handguard: MI 308 SS freefloat tube handguard, modified with screws drilled and tapped through the handguard and into the barrel nut for better security.


Untitled by ASH556, on Flickr
Click to expand...
 
SO would you assume the apex to be a better option? or does it use the "clamp? method as well? I just dont my hand gaurd to become loose and start rotating. How did you drill through the barrel nut? is there a DIY video or pictures?
 
TheBigLebowski said:
SO would you assume the apex to be a better option? or does it use the "clamp? method as well? I just dont my hand gaurd to become loose and start rotating. How did you drill through the barrel nut? is there a DIY video or pictures?
Click to expand...

No DIY pics, sorry. I installed the barrel nut, indexed it so that the gas tube would go through a tooth grove, marked it, removed it, drilled and tapped it 10/32.

The APEX is a solid lockup for sure. It also uses the factory barrel nut. You could use a Dremel tool to cut off the factory delta ring assembly and install the APEX without having to remove the barrel nut. I don't care for some of the other features of the APEX, but it's not a bad handguard and has a solid lockup method for sure.

Another option is the Troy MRF rail in .308. It clamps similarly to the APEX.
 
Just got back from the gunsmith, went the Troy route and I hope no regrets, will test if everything functions by next week...love the look ..bad *** ;)
 

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Me too, originally an Apex handguard at 15" or better yet the JP one at 15.5" JP Rifles
Alas, due to lack of funds and complexity of installation... I went the Troy route with their 13.8 profile at $217 delivered and now I actually think the 13.8 ~ 14 is the best length for it given my supporting hand reach and to me aesthetically pleasing as it still shows the caliber designation, so not too short 12" or long at 15". I am going to replace the flashider with muzzle brake and that will bring it in by another inch or so :D
 

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Good points you made. Your gun looks good the way it is set up. I'm leaning toward the MI SS rail right now at 15" since I'll be replacing the SW flash hider with a KAC 7.62 MAMS eventually that will keep the OAL long.
 
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