I haven't modified any CT laser grips in some time, because I just don't have time, but I continue to receive requests for them. Several people have asked – most nicely, but some quite demanding – that I tell the world how to modify them themselves. I'm living proof that there is no magic involved, but there are a lot of ways to screw up so here are some tips I've learned the hard way.
My best advice is don't bother, but if you must just order two sets of grips to modify. I can almost guarantee that you'll ruin one before you figure it out. There are no secrets to modifying the grips, just measure twice before you start cutting.
I have a pretty good shop from my years in aviation and electronics maintenance and I now like to do a little wood butchering. However, there were a few things I had to add for this project.
T3 Torx bit
Small diamond grinders for a die grinder or Dremmel
Bone Black from Brownells to tint epoxy
Two part epoxy (thin formula)
Black RTV
I can tell you that the circumference of all the double-stack 9mm 3d gens is the same so the stock 5900 grips fit fine and only have to be cut in length.
The grips on the single-stack 9mm 3d gens need to be shaved in width and need a 1/8 inch shim between the grip and the back edge of the frame in order to fit tight. A little sliver of plexi-glass works well.
The large frame 40’s and 45’s also need to be shaved in width (thickness) and the factory index tabs inside the grips need to be removed.
One of the more difficult steps is removal of the master switch and shorting the wiring. These wires are tiny – probably a 30 or 32 gauge – and it is very easy to pull them out of the circuit board or slice them off. I use an Xacto knife with a fresh blade, a hemostat and a lighted magnifier to strip them. Solder them carefully and cut them off as close to the circuit board as you dare.
The next step is filing the holes in the grips and now exposed wiring with black tinted epoxy.
After you clean up the epoxy you can trial fit the grips to the frame and mark the areas that have to be relieved for the threaded plastic block that holds the mainspring. A fine white paint sharpie pen works well for marking. Be gentle with the die grinder, you can take more off, but you can't put it back. Don't touch those tiny little index tabs if you’re working on a 9mm – those are what aligns everything.
Shaving the width or cutting the length is where I found I was most likely to irreparably damage the grips. You need to make jigs for both steps. I use an end cutting router bit in a router table to cut the thickness – just keep raising the bit until you take off enough. Go very very slow as the hard plastic will chip.
Cutting the grip to length is simple once you get the jig perfected. I use a table saw with a fine tooth carbide blade.
Relocating the screw hole is a little tricky. I use a small drill bit and drill through the plastic threaded block to locate it. Use a larger size bit in a drill press to enlarge it.
The relocated screw hole is now on a more rounded part of the grip and the stock fillister head screws project to far. My local Home Depot carries 6-32 stainless screws that can be cut to length. The stainless is soft so I like a low profile hex head.
If you make it this far, the hard part is behind you. The only thing left is filling the gap in the butt with black RTV. I squirt a liberal amount of RTV in the grip, cover it with Saranwrap and use the frame of the gun as a mold. Clamp it up for at least 24 hours before removing the gun, then do the other side. Make sure the RTV has cured for at least 3 or 4 days before you do any cleanup or trimming. Expect to do this a couple of times before you get it just right and the grips will close around the frame.
My advice is you really don't want to do this. If you have an extra two-hundred-fifty-bucks to waste, go buy a nice belt and holster.
Here’s a couple of photos to give you an idea how I did my jigs.
Last edited by Hill_Country; 05-19-2014 at 10:36 AM.
|