Got the trigger in this morning and just got back from the range. I feel this is an improvement (not much because I had spent a bunch of time getting the curved FSS trigger "just right"). The thing I like the most is that the trigger has a positive overtravel stop, the original FSS trigger relied on the limits of the trigger bar travel so I think this will improve my split times, I'll find out at Tuesday's match. I've included a couple of pictures of the old and new, the overtravel stop is apparent on the new one. I've also included a couple of pictures for those who are considering this option. This is a metal trigger and as has been reported, the pin that holds the trigger bar to the trigger is very tight and difficult to drive. This one was no different, after a couple of whacks with the hammer, I didn't like the way the whole process felt, glancing at the vice just to the right of where I was sitting, the little light bulb went off, I put the trigger in the vice and tightened it enough to hold the trigger in place, then put the bar into place and the pin went in smoothly. Just a couple of cautions, make sure the jaws are parallel (no Harbor Freight vices for this job) and they are smooth. I did not have to make any adjustments to the trigger bar loop, apparently all the monkeying around I did when I put the original FSS trigger in was still correct.
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Minimize the variables
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