Quote:
Originally Posted by Neumann
.../
/....Recoil is moderate in a 36+ oz revolver. I shoot nothing but full-load .357 Magnum in mine. I don't think I would like 25 oz recoil, much less an airweight 15 oz.
If you carry "mostly" concealed, that means high ride too. The shorter the barrel, the easier to clear leather in a situation. A 3" 686 has a full-length ejector, whereas 2.5" is short, and takes a good whack to eject all the shells the first time.
I get smaller groups with these revolvers than a mid-range 1911, typically about 3" at 10 yards, SA. I can keep then on a paper plate at that range DA. I think that's dangerous enough for self defense.
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I agree my 36 oz 2 1/2" Model 66 or my 40 oz 2 1/12" Model 686 are heavy enough to be able to shoot very well, while still being light enough to carry comfortably all day long in a good IWB holster with a well made belt.
We're in agreement as well on the ejector rod. The FBI specified a 3" barrel for their Model 13s because it allowed for a full length ejector rod. But..."full length" is relative to the .38 Special, and the .357 Magnum brass still will not fully clear the cylinder.
The "FBI reload" was developed back in the 1930s when speed loaders were a new thing, and when 4" or 5" revolvers and .38 Special were the norm. As such, with a full length ejector rod and .38 Special the FBI reload worked well, as the thumb provided enough force to eject the spent brass.
However, with full power .357 Magnum loads, the brass can stick enough to make ejection using only the thumb on the ejector rod a challenge, even with a full length ejector rod. Add a short ejector rod, and it gets to be even more of a challenge.
That led to the "Universal reload" where the thumb is repositioned down on the face of the cylinder, and the ejection force is provided with the strong hand slapping "down" on the ejector rod.
.357 Magnum loads also generate much more heat at the forcing cone and in both the FBI and Universal reloads, the forcing cone ends up resting on the side of knuckle of your middle finger. Some officers and agents have dropped revolvers in gun fights due to getting burned after firing 6 rounds rapid fire and reloading. It isn't an issue with .38 Special but it can be with .357 Magnum.
In addition, officers tend to slap the ejector rod at an angle - and that's what bends ejector rods, not the hollywood style flipping the crane closed (that causes its own issues with the crane, but doesn't bend the ejector rod).
The end result was the stress fire reload where the cylinder is opened the same way (with the thumb unlatching the cylinder and then the middle and ring fingers of the weak hand going through the frame to push the cylinder out). However, once open the thumb goes from the cylinder latch to position between the cylinder and frame to hold it open, with the revolver held in the strong hand with the hammer in the web of the hand, holding it muzzle up. This allows the weak hand to slap straight down on the ejector rod with the thumb and forefinger on each side of the barrel - which helps align the hand so that it strikes straight down on the ejector rod. There is also no thumb in the way to limit the travel of the ejector rod, so you get a much more positive ejection using the full length of the ejector rod.
You also don't have the hot forcing cone resting on your middle finger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomrkba
The main difference is in comfort. The 4" barrel requires a longer holster. The muzzle are presses against your back pocket, which is rounded on the inside. This creates a bit of tension thst you feel as you move around. You can see this printing sometimes. The 3" gun, WITH A HOLSTER MADE FOR IT, will relieve some of that tension. If you carry the 686 3" in a holster made for a 4", you will either feel a slight difference as the leather is mashed down over time or no change ever if you use kydex.
I also think the 4" is easier to shoot. I noticed a dramatic difeerence in performance when moving to a 3" gun from a 5" gun.
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I agree with you on the holster. A 4" is just to long to be able to walk, stand, move and sit comfortably all day long in an IWB holster - and concealment isn't an option in a OWB holster.
The longer barrel will help reduce some of the muzzle flip, due to the longer length and increased weight forward, particularly with something like a 686 where the barrel has an under lug. However, the difference is fairly small if you've got a well developed grip.
The difference in accuracy is virtually non existent however - if you've got a well developed grip and good trigger control. If the sight alignment and grip are sufficient, the shorter sight radius makes no significant difference. Mechanically speaking, 2 1/2" and 3" revolvers are every bit as accurate as 4" and 5" revolvers.