You do realize that the safety isn't what keeps 1911-pattern pistols from firing in a holster, right? It's the covered trigger, which keeps the sear in the path of the hammer, which allows the hammer's half-cock notch to strike the sear face, which retards its motion enough to prevent the firing pin from striking the primer hard enough to fire.

And it's actually pretty good at this.

For the uninitiated, this is why you don't screw around with the internals of a for-carry 1911-pattern. You need pressure on the sear leg of the sear spring to make sure that it knocks the half-cock notch hard enough to prevent a discharge. Virtually every reputable manufacturer ships 1911s with perfectly good triggers. If you want a 2# pull, buy another pistol (SA ROs are good and relatively inexpensive, when they're available) and mess around with that. If you can't shoot a 1911 with a 5# pull--practice.

Oh, and this is also why you don't carry the cheap Philippines-manufactured frames (Armscor, among others). Frames for super-budget 1911s are built with a more "casual" approach to pin location. They're a false economy. If you want something cheap and don't care if it's awful, fine. If you're buying one with the idea that you're going to tune up the trigger, forget it. Many are so badly manufactured that it's aftermarket parts can't be made to give acceptable results. And by the time a pistolsmith fixes the bad gun, you'd have spent more than an entry-level or mid-range pistol costs.