Gunguy,
Now there you have a worthy project if you want one to refinish. I can send you a video with tips if you do.
You certainly have good luck with grips. Those on your heirloom 32-20 are original stocks with genuine gold plated medallions only made from 1910 to 1920; they're worth more than the gun, ~ $200 minimum in that condition.
Those on your Model 10-5 are genuine India Sambar Stag, the real McCoys, worth ~ $200. They are very desirable these days.They could use a polish to see their full beauty. If you want to do that, very simple, I can explain how.
The 10-5 was only made in 1962. The -5 designates the change from a 1/10" wide front sight to the 1/8" width.
However, it has no screw in the front of the trigger screw making it a 3 screw version. So it's actually a 10-6 change which eliminated the front trigger guard screw. Recheck the dash # with magnification, 5s can look like 6s. If it is stamped 5 it's a very early -6 that was already in the production process when the =6 change was ordered and already stamped -5.
The lowest screw on the sideplate is a flat head, it shouldn't be in that position. If there's a domed head screw under the top of the grip, those two screws have been swapped accidently.
To determine if Blue or Nickel originally look for the 'B' or 'N' stamped or no letter stamped at all indicates an original Blue finish or an original Nickel finish based upon the corresponding letter.
The absence (more prevalent after 1930) of either the 'B' or 'N' can also indicate that it left the factory nickeled.
Look in these locations for pre war and post war models if serial # is stamped on the barrel flat (or in barrel shroud).
Barrel in front of serial #,
rear face of yoke looking thru a chamber with a flashlight,
on rear face of cyl separated from serial #,
behind the extractor star,
and by itself on right side grip frame on pre war commercial guns,
on post WWII models with no s/n on barrel*, look on left side grip frame.
*The post war and the 1950s period, was one of much evolution. There was the usual transition when blue or nickel finish code letter stamps waned and s/n frame prefix letters began.
Or you'll have to search in crevices for vestiges of the original finish. Or just remove the side plate and there will be no doubt.
Removing sideplate:
Some of the commentary is a little bogus, but the main error is that the two screws indicated as identical, are not! The one that retains the yoke is 'fitted' and therefore specific to that location. Otherwise these are very helpful:
SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 SERVICE REVOLVER PART 1 - YouTube
Note: The part referred to in the video as the crane is actually the yoke in S&W terms. Crane is the Colt name for that part.
SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 PART 2 - YouTube
The stuck front locking bolt is a minor issue. Soak with gun cleaner/lubricant and gently tap the front tip where it sticks out in font of the barrel lug.
Flush the entire interior as well thru every opening.