Quote:
|
Imagining in my head, a lighter sear spring will allow the sear to pivot a bit easier, reducing trigger weight through the range of the pull, correct
|
?
Not all the way. Just towards the end once the trigger bar engages the sear which happens just after the striker block is disengaged (with stock and apex duty/carry type kits)
Quote:
|
The striker block spring would allow it to retract into the slide easier if it were stock as well, right
|
?
Right.
Quote:
|
And the trigger return spring would make for a more solid springy trigger if I use the apex
|
?
Yes, throughout the entire pull cycle.
Quote:
|
If I skip all their springs, the break weight of the trigger would be much less, making it unsafe?
|
Unsafe is subjective. I will say that when I did my shield with all the stock springs and just the apex sear, I ended up with a very crisp, light break right at about 3.5lbs. Some people would be fine with that but personally I like about a 4.5lb break on my striker fired no-manual-safety defensive triggers. And I prefer to have a bit of take up or "pre-travel". I'm not a 1911 cocked and locked kind of guy. I prefer a simpler point and shoot system. Not that there's anything wrong 1911's... just personal preference.
Quote:
|
I want a short travel, non smushy trigger with a fast break
|
.
So let's talk about travel for a second and how the springs interact on the M&P series. From start of trigger pull (or press) to the end where the trigger stops, I think of as 3 different stages. Stage 1 is the pre-travel (or take up). This stage uses the trigger spring for the majority and then just prior to 2nd stage, the striker block and spring. At the end of stage 1 when the trigger bar engages the striker block, the tension of the striker block spring "stacks" on or adds to the tension of trigger spring. Stage 1.5 is the wall. Really i group this in with stage 1 but i wanted to explain a bit more on it.This is where the trigger bar engages the sear. The strength of the wall depends a lot on the sear spring at this point with a small amount being how light stage 1 is. Stage 2 is the break. This one is pretty simple. Striker drops and gun go bang. At this point the sear spring tension stacks on top of both the trigger spring and the striker block spring and of course the striker spring. Stage 3 is over travel. And this is the one that not many focus on and in my opinion is almost as important to accuracy as the break itself...if not more. To much over travel I think is why so many right handed people shoot low and left with glocks. After the striker drops, the trigger continues to travel until it hits some kind of mechanical stop. Because the striker has dropped at this point the resistance has all of the sudden dopped to and your finger sort of jolts back into the frame with a good amount of force. The more over travel, the longer the distance there is to build up a stronger jolt. Does that make sense? This jolt is happening at the same time the gun is firing. If you decrease the amount of over travel, you lessen the that jolt that throws off the accuracy. Trigger reset is sort of like stage 4 but I'm no gonna talk about that on this post.
So now we get to the apex parts. The apex dut/carry trigger shoe does take out a bit of the pre-travel and over travel and the sear shortens the overall break a bit. so the break on the apex sear is short and crisp. Triggers like the FSS kit get rid of the majority of the pre travel but that part isnt really adjustable on tje 2.0 system. The only unfortunate part about the 2.0 is that the new trigger bar and sear interface removes the ability to easily fine tune the over travel of the system. On the 1.0 you could adjust that very easily with the trigger bar loop. It's a trade off though because the new system I think makes for a more solid interface and a more consistent pull.
Quote:
|
What are the downsides to using stock springs and apex striker block, trigger shoe and sear?
|
Again, I'm gonna say that "downside" is subjective. The results would be lighter over all trigger feel mostly. Possibly reduced reset feel. The tension ratio between pretravel and break might not be ideal but that will depend on shooter. I like my pretravel to be much lighter than the break so I can really feel the wall when staging my trigger.
Man I'm long winded...