Good suggestions on this thread.
My single stage and LnL AP are rock solid on the bench but I took a slightly different approach.

For the LnL, I mounted it on a 2"x6" with carriage bolts and fender washers from the bottom. I routed a recess in the bottom with my Dremel tool so that it sits flush on the table (Half a Gorilla Rack from Costco bought in the 90's). The 2x6 extends the width of the bench to the wall and I used bookcase brackets anchored to the studs in the wall. This requires a lot less heft on the wall attachment because the distance from the front of the table to the wall is much greater than the distance from the front of the table to the downforce twisting of the press hanging over the edge of the table.

My Lee Breechlock Challenger press is mounted in a similar fashion but I only need a 2x4 for that mount.

When adjusting the pawls, make very small adjustments of 1/16th of a turn or less.

When the OP says the Lee dies take a lot of force to size/deprime a case, are you doing 9mm? That's a tapered case and many chambers are not tapered meaning you will need a lot of force to resize 9mm. Some advocate a misting of Hornady One Shot case lube on the cases. I just live with the fact that 9mm will be a lot tougher than true straight walled cases.

The hopper will get discolored over time. In 6+ years and over 60,000 rounds (almost all with pistol powder and a lot with high Nitroglycerin double base powder), my hopper is very smokey on the bottom half. I usually load only 100-200 rounds at a sitting and empty the hopper after each session so I never fill the hopper more than half way.

Recently, I used a rolled up overhead transparency sheet to line the inside of my hopper and while it may be too late to prevent the discoloration, it did add a bonus. I taped around the bottom of the hopper with transparent tape and what it did was make the fit of the hopper to the powder measure real tight. That will prevent the spill disasters experienced by some.