Quote:
Originally Posted by Trooper224
Again Fastbolt, outstanding information, thank you.
If this was a 1911, Browning High Power or even an S&W revolver I would have had it ironed out pretty quickly. These old S&W autos are a bit alien to me. The last thing I wanted to do was go diving in with a hammer and dremel and wind up being "that guy".
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De nada.
There's some occasionally interesting tidbits I've picked up over the years. I attended 4 armorer classes for the 3rd gen's, and learned a lot more during many calls back to the factory to ask questions (as an armorer).
While I'm NOT a gunsmith, a factory engineering tech nor a factory repair tech, as a factory trained armorer I've probably learned enough to be able to disgnose many simple issues that can occur with the 3rd gen guns.
One of the factory guys who helped answer a lot of my questions over the years was one of the original folks involved in the AIP (Auto Improvement Program) when the 3rd gen's were being developed, and an early armorer instructor. He's retired now, but he offered some interesting insights into the occasional odd things I'd encountered over the years I was calling him. (Like the occasional factory "cut", or notch, on the 645's and some of the early 4506's, which could look like a crack in the rear of the slide's recoil spring box. I think he said they used to call it a "D cut", and it was done to give some room in the occasional slide for the barrel to be tipped during removal and installation in the slide. New guns benefited from a beveled spot, as machining capability improved. He was a fountain of interesting info. Lots of that institutional knowledge is retiring though, or has already retired. More's the pity.)
Feel free to use my listed email for simple questions, as my PM box fills up to the max limit all the time. Just let me know an email is coming and from what address (in case my spam filter diverts it).