Actually checking the "insides" that shouldazagged is referring to requires removing the 4 screws circled in the photo below (accessing one of them requires first removing the grips) and removing the sideplate.
This should only be attempted AFTER a good soak in a 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix for a few days (with the wood grips removed first), and only with the right (hollow-ground) type of screwdrivers, and by someone who has good mechanical skills.
One way to get at least a vague idea of the condition of these "internals" is to pull the trigger. Your photo shows that there are no cartridges in the cylinder, so close the empty cylinder and then see what happens if you attempt to pull the trigger. If the internal mechanism is as rusty as the exterior, you probably won't be able to budge the trigger. If they are still lubed and rust free, pulling the trigger should cause the hammer to cock and then fall, just as it would if you were firing the revolver.
You can also try cocking the hammer with your thumb and then puling the trigger to see if the hammer releases as it should.
I would suggest starting out by giving it a good soak in the 50/50 solution and see what happens. If it limbers up and seems to function, you can clean the rust off the exterior and have a good solid shooter. If the hammer and trigger don't function (either before or after a soak) then the best advise is to take it to a qualified gunsmith to remove the sideplate and see what the internal mechanisms look like. At that point you'll know whether it is salvageable - or if it is only suitable as a wall-hanger/display.
Last edited by BC38; 05-29-2018 at 08:41 PM.
|