Quote:
Originally Posted by dfariswheel
When changing a revolver barrel you'll need some fairly expensive tools to do it.
Among them is a special frame wrench with inserts to fit THAT specific model and brand, a lathe to turn down the barrel shoulder, a barrel vise, a special tool that works down the bore to re-cut the barrel/cylinder gap (you don't do that with a file), and another special tool set that works down the bore to re-cut the forcing cone, lap it smooth, and a special plug gage to gage the cone to insure its the right diameter at the throat.
How to ruin a nice gun:
Use a hammer handle through the frame to twist the frame off.
Use a file to file the barrel to set barrel/cylinder gap.
Ignore the forcing cone entirely.
Then wonder why the gun doesn't shoot as well as it did, or why it suddenly has problems.
Re-barreling a revolver is a major pistolsmithing operation.
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In 1986 I BLEW the forcing cone on my 4" nickel 19. I bought a nickel 4" barrel from Ocala Armory in Florida. I made a set of frame blocks. I punched out the barrel pin.(the hardest part of the whole job) After installing the frame(in the blocks) in the vice. I wrapped the barrel in 3 wraps of leather. Then I snugged a 12" cresent wrench on that. A coulpe of taps on the wrench handle and The barrel came loose to be screwed off. The new barrel was installed in reverse order. It snugged before top dead center. Getting TDC I reinstalled the barrel pin. I had to take a thousand or so off the rear of the barrel to get proper cylinder to barrel gap. My 19 was and is a great shooter. So.....Changing a barrel is not voodoo or complicated if you set your mind to do it and do it right.....And if the barrel shoulder needs to be turned down you can carefully do it with a file. We had to do that when we swapped barrels on a friend's 29.
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S&W Accumulator
Last edited by Mike, SC Hunter; 04-01-2021 at 09:00 PM.
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