Safe dis-assembly
myrnpistol,
More than happy to help you out with the repair. It's a rarity to converse with someone who actually takes them apart.
If you've worked on the old swing-out Model 10 than you understand the safe procedure to "always" remove the grips first, side plate, and main spring. Always put parts in a safe place away from your working area in a secure container and for the top breaks I always remove the barrel assembly so that I have only one piece in my hand and that's the frame. All other parts are put in a secure container away from the work area.
The frame pins on these antiques are often damaged and "bent" inside the gun to begin with so you can't do much damage with a flat head type punch. See photo. IN fact, a bent pin can be the source of the mal function in this case. I don't worry about the tips of the pins until re-installation. It's very easy to re-constitute a dome with emery cloth. In your case the gun has been re-blued, so no harm done. I can show you how to re-constitute a dome on these. It's simple and fun.
These photo'd tools are my primary small tools to work on the old top-breaks. I took some cheap drivers on the right of the photo and used a Dremel to cut the tips and introduce a small cup to the tip. The expensive tools on the left.
They work perfectly. However, the pins are often stuck from being on the frame for 130 plus years so you have to work them out with a small brass ball peen hammer until they move easily. Oil and tap, Oil and tap, until they move. Then carefully tap them with the punch. Never start with a punch! The punch will slip off the stuck pin and you'll put a dent/scratch into the frame.
The flat brass peen hammer will not damage the frame surface, nor will it damage the pin.
I started out with a Colt Thunderer many moons ago. My first antique. I don't think I've ever worked on a harder action than that specific model. The only folks who talk trash are those who don't actually work on antiques. It's not that difficult and it's fun to get them working.
This is an factual statement.
"The only reason they can be difficult to repair is due to NO new factory original replacement parts being available on the market".
Murph
Last edited by BMur; 01-19-2022 at 04:05 PM.
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