I now have appx 100 more dry fires through it and have taken it down and put it back together a dozen more times and it's been 100% reliable when the trigger gets pulled.
The takedown anomaly still exists.
I'm thinking a component had a burr left over from the factory, something that's not totally unheard of with anything that's mass produced.
My current theory is that once the burr came loose, it sat somewhere that was out of the way. When I cleaned the gun, that metal shaving moved and got tangled up near the trigger bar or sear when I tried to dry fire afterward.
It was small, less than a 1/4 of an inch long, and as thin as a hair with a couple loose metal bits.
The flush with rem oil obviously got it out.
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Upon further inspection, at least in comparison to my Shield 2.0 PC, the trigger bar on my Plus PC appears to be out of alignment causing it to only partially engage the sear, and hit it at a funny angle. The rough edge and wear pattern on the part of the trigger bar that hits the sear is the likely source of the metal shaving/burr. Because the sear is not fully being engaged, its visibly sitting higher in my Shield Plus, which in theory would make it harder to disengage. Furthermore, the wear lines on the top of the trigger bar that hit the striker saftey indicate that the bar has traveled around and past the plunger without depressing the plunger and deactivating the saftey.
I'm not a gunsmith but I feel that's possibly the explanation for the popping sound I was talking about, especially since the striker won't release while in that situation.
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