The handy-dandy Power Custom ejector rod unscrewing and rescrewing tool was used to disassemble the cylinder. Three empty .38 cases were used to support the ejector star during all unscrewing and rescrewing operations.
My notes showed .005" of endshake, so a .003" shim was selected from my Shively assortment and verified with a set of calipers. This shim was also stoned to remove any edge burrs. As a side note, when you drop the shim onto a smooth surface and don't want to bend it trying to pick it up with your fingernails, the little blob of grease on the end of your grease syringe makes a dandy shim picker upper.
This is where I think I made a mistake and didn't catch it until I rechecked the final endshake. I used a .003" shim to correct the .005" of endshake and leave .002" for clearance, but I forgot that I had also put in a .002" shim on the yoke. I should have shimmed the yoke first and then checked the endshake. I probably would have left it alone. As it is, the gun now has .001" of endshake which may not be enough. I'll test it on Sunday and if it binds when it gets dirty I'll swap the .003" shim for a smaller one or just take it out completely.
The rear gauge came out perfect, with a .060" gauge able to fit and the .068" gauge not even trying to go in.
Last edited by Shotguncoach; 03-10-2024 at 10:42 AM.
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