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Originally Posted by Kyler Hamann
I used a standard Clymer 10mm Auto Finish Reamer and had great results getting to the correct Magnum depth.
It took good cutting oil (Viper) and lots of elbow grease, but it was pretty simple and quick.
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Slow & easy, that's the way to ream them by hand, to get the most consistent results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyler Hamann
So far I've had good luck shooting Mag rounds against the shoulder in the chamber (without a moonclip - in case that feature is ever needed).
I don't seem to have any issues with an "Auto shoulder", but I've shot a very limited amount of 10mm Mag.
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The only problem I see, & have experienced, with cutting a revolver chamber (with a shoulder) for auto ammo -vs- a revolver chamber cut (without a shoulder), is that you can more easily get bullet interference with the throats in the former than the latter.
I've ran into this in my
45WSM (with "auto cut" chambers) using cast LSWC bullets that leave more of the bullet's shoulder outside the case.
(I really like my 45WSM, as a wildcat "auto cartridge" in a revolver, over the 10MAG, if for no other reason than the availability of bullets with cannelures. Anything .45 is just cool anyway.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyler Hamann
My Magnum brass has been backordered with Starline for 7 months... so I only have one box of 20 from factory loaded Double Tap that I've been playing with. Any advice on finding brass...
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I've had a back-order with S-L since Apr-2021 for 10mm MAG brass. Don't know if they lost my order or they still haven't made a run of them yet?
I got some from a forum member here. You might try putting an ad in the WTB section.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyler Hamann
...and loading data (I have the Taffin and Accurate Arms data) would be GREATLY appreciated.
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I've tested a lot of different powders with 165gr JHPs in the 10MAG.
Here's some LabRadar chrono results:
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- USE AT YOU OWN RISK! -
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