Help this Glock-guy see the light; questions I could not find the answer to online.

I’m thinking of switching to either S&W M&Ps or Sig 320s and 365s from a decade of Glock. I have some questions regarding the Shield Plus and M&P2.0 V2 (has Shield Plus trigger) I did not find researching online.

These are the questions I have remaining regarding making a switch to M&Ps:

Glock’s MOS plates are cheap pot steel and using CHPWS or FCD plates are recommended. Can the same said for S&W, are aftermarket slide plates recommended instead of using S&W’s or are the OEM plates plenty sturdy for hard use?

What options are there for replacing the stock slide stop release? I’m using the term slide stop release as I do use it to release the slide. I feel the stock slide stop release is too small for my liking to use it as a release. Is the OEM extended slide stop release noticeably bigger? Looking at online pictures I don’t see a difference. Does anyone make a slide stop release like the one Kagwerks makes for Glocks?

Is there a reason to replace the stock sights other than to get night sights or blackout sights? I suspect they are not fragile like the plastic Glock sights.

These are the models numbers of the pistols I’m considering based off current offerings as I make the switch:
9mm (Full): 14163
9mm (Compact): 13572
9mm (Shield Plus): 13534
.40: 11829
10mm: 13387
.45: 13586

S&W does not list detailed technical specs of their size the way Glock does. Will all the full-size 9mm, 10mm, and .45 models need their own holsters or will the 10mm and .45 share a thicker slider width than their 9mm counterpart to use the same holster?

Does S&W have their own version of the GSSF (Glock Sport Shooting Foundation) to find competitions exclusive to them and for discounts when purchasing a pistol?

Thanks for entertaining this heathen.

Threaper said:

I’m thinking of switching to either S&W M&Ps or Sig 320s and 365s from a decade of Glock. I have some questions regarding the Shield Plus and M&P2.0 V2 (has Shield Plus trigger) I did not find researching online.

These are the questions I have remaining regarding making a switch to M&Ps:

Glock’s MOS plates are cheap pot steel and using CHPWS or FCD plates are recommended. Can the same said for S&W, are aftermarket slide plates recommended instead of using S&W’s or are the OEM plates plenty sturdy for hard use?

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My G34MOS has the OEM Glock plate installed for several years with no issues. As for my Smith Shield Plus it did not come with plates. The P365Xs did not require a plate with Sig and Holosun sights I have used on them. The Shield did not need a plate with the Sig optic I used.

My Shield Plus would not zero with 2 different red dots (Sig Romeo Zero , Holosun 407K) shooting high with elevation maxed out to the down position 4" high at 25ft and 12" at 25 yards.

Both red dots worked fine on my Glock 43X MOS , Sig P365X and Sig P322. E-mailed Smith customer service and their response was to contact the sight manufacturers. Really?

I would stick with the Glock or get one of the P365 variants. The Shield Plus I thought was going to be the perfect pistol but when when Smith doesn't stand behind their product I'm done buying them.

M&P 2.0 .45 has a plastic optics cover plate, which will probably last forever. Mine has the latest trigger, but it needed work to be smooth so dry fire before you buy.

Release the slide by sling-shotting it and the release button won’t matter. Sadly, I agree that today’s S&W semiautos leave a bit to be desired.

There is a material attribute to the S&W C.O.R.E. system's design (at least as seen on the 1.0 versions?) that is often overlooked. The "plates" are in actuality just spacers: the mounting screws for the optic fit directly into the slide and are, one hopes, of appropriate length. My "plates" don't seem to be plastic... I don't know if the material is actually crucial: none of mine have ever come loose.

This is quite different from some of the other brand's mounting systems where the adaptor plates screw into the slides and the optic is then screwed into the plate.

Other S&Ws may well have optic cuts (i.e., specifically footprint designed) that accommodate direct mounting.

Cheers!

There seems to be about a zillion circular discussions about optic plates. In at least some S&W's the optic screws go through the plate into directly into the slide, instead of the optic screwing into a plate, and then the plate being screwed seperately into the slide. When the screws are going directly into the slide, it doesn't matter what the plate is made of.

I can't keep up with all the ins and outs, and don't want to. I have seen people using the wrong plates for their guns, but that problem, and any others, seem to never be their fault.

When I say plate, I mean the cover piece they provide if you don’t mount an optic.

I have a Performance Center Shield 4" and once the RDS was on it, I have never considered once taking it off. For my eyes, there is no question that the RDS wins, and I cannot foresee doing without.

If you are significantly invested in Glocks and their holsters, etc., and shoot them well, I would not waste the Monet switching. I have to such invested in Glocks to consider a wholesale change, but if I were advising someone just getting into auto-pistols, I would advocate for the Smiths.

Sigs? Not in this lifetime. I have a 239, and it is ok, but the general QA/QC on most of their pistols is abysmal. I ordered a specific model some years back and it was so wrong the dealer returned it. Sig was angry, and it took months to get the correct version (which I had to sell in a bad period).

I too have a G34 MOS. I have a Holosun screwed onto the proper enclosed plate. Due to it's size it's strictly a range toy. It also has that new slide release with what appears to be a spot weld on it. Works just fine and the plate never moves either.

My carry is a Smith 442 or a G42. Quite frankly the revolver with five very dependable shots is comforting. Any brand auto loader, not so much. But I'm a geezer and well tuned to J frame shooting for more than fifty years OTJ.and off. So resistant to change.

Range toys and carry tools, a world of difference. YMMV.

When some one mentions changing brands to something in 9mm or 10mm or maybe 45 to one of 3 I would say visit a darn good gun shop with an indoor range and handle different models and reduce your list to a couple models with in one brands and rent them . You did miss the 40sw that M&P and several other still make a sell ! .

I have an M&P 1.0 Pro CORE, and an M&P 2.0 'optics ready'. Both have had RDS mounted using factory plates from new, have many thousands of rounds downrange, and neither have ever had an issue with the optic mounting.

I also have two P365s (X & XL) with optics mounted. Again, no problems with either.

Before I retired I did a lot of academy level instruction, and saw plenty of problems with Glock sights on the range. Some problems with optics mounting, but it was a lot less common than sight problems. Never saw a sight or optic related problem with an M&P, but they were much less common in recruit classes than Glocks.

IMHO, the ergonomics of the M&P are a huge improvement over a Glock, but I was always a 1911 guy, so Glocks never really worked for me. The shape and angle of the grip makes the S&W much easier for a wider range of shooters to have a proper grip.

The slide stop is a non-issue. In over 30 years of teaching people to fight with handguns, I've never seen a reputable curriculum that teaches using the slide stop to release the slide. It's purpose is to lock the slide to the rear. I would suggest changing your technique.

When it comes to smaller guns, I owned an M&P Shield, and investigated the Glock 43 and 48 before getting into the Sig P365. My wife has a 43, and I shot a couple of 48s. IMHO, the P365 has a better trigger, better ergonomics, and softer recoil. Especially the XL... it's an incredibly soft shooting gun for a 9mm in that size.

hardluk1 said:

When some one mentions changing brands to something in 9mm or 10mm or maybe 45 to one of 3 I would say visit a darn good gun shop with an indoor range and handle different models and reduce your list to a couple models with in one brands and rent them . You did miss the 40sw that M&P and several other still make a sell ! .

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I did try the 9mm Metal as that is what my range has. And made me question everything. I just shoot it so well compared to my Glocks, which I dry fire about 10-15 minutes almost daily.

I did add a .40 to the list; I’m a 9mm guy but I see a reason to have at least one in the other calibers, but I will keep my G42 as my .380 piece.

Rodan said:

The slide stop is a non-issue. In over 30 years of teaching people to fight with handguns, I've never seen a reputable curriculum that teaches using the slide stop to release the slide. It's purpose is to lock the slide to the rear. I would suggest changing your technique.

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Every few years I take a class to get input on what I’m doing and no one has ever corrected me on hitting the slide stop release. Glock even calls it the slide stop release.

S&W went to a "slide lock" after complaints that many M&P pistols would have the slide go forward if the mag was inserted with vigor, AKA the birthday bump.

Sorry, but why change from the proven Glock platform to any other “wannabe?”

Threaper said:

I did try the 9mm Metal as that is what my range has. And made me question everything. I just shoot it so well compared to my Glocks, which I dry fire about 10-15 minutes almost daily.

I did add a .40 to the list; I’m a 9mm guy but I see a reason to have at least one in the other calibers, but I will keep my G42 as my .380 piece.

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One big advantage of the M&P in 40 S&W (IMHO) is the ease of converting to 357 SIG (merely takes a conversion barrel) and/or 9mm (conversion barrel + 9mm mags, just to be "sure")...

Three guns in one: just remember to use the correct ammo and magazines!

Cheers!

P.S. I have found aftermarket conversion barrels in SS make that last concern a bit easier.

STORMINORMAN said:

One big advantage of the M&P in 40 S&W (IMHO) is the ease of converting to 357 SIG (merely takes a conversion barrel) and/or 9mm (conversion barrel + 9mm mags, just to be "sure")...

Three guns in one: just remember to use the correct ammo and magazines!

Cheers!

P.S. I have found aftermarket conversion barrels in SS make that last concern a bit easier.

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Why buy a barrel and mags when I can just buy a new gun that has those plus a slide and frame?!

shawn mccarver said:

Sorry, but why change from the proven Glock platform to any other “wannabe?”

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I would not say M&Ps, P320s, PDPs, etc. are wannabes. They’re all good and when I tried the M&P Metal I just shot it so well

shawn mccarver said:

Sorry, but why change from the proven Glock platform to any other “wannabe?”

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Because Glocks grip angle in wonky, the trigger is worse than the M&P1.0, sights are usually plastic and not as accurate as the M&P. I’ve owned 16 Glocks over the years, and the M&P is a better gun in all areas except magazine price and aftermarket support.

It may be the difference in the grip angle, metal frame or trigger between the M & P Metal and the Glock that makes it work better for you. Enjoy!

S&W's original metal and LE box optics plates are fine. I have reservations about the plastic ones holding up to abuse.

My newest M&P 2.0 OR (front serrations, but hinged trigger) has a larger slide stop than my 2 older 2.0s. I haven't found hitting it to be an issue with my small/medium hands.

Some holsters reportedly work fine with both the 9/40 frame and the 45/10 frame, but I wouldn't bet on it being optimal in any case.

S&W doesn't really have anything like the GSSF for non-LE discounts, but S&W also doesn't enforce Minimum Advertised Price as strongly as Glock does. A friend of mine bought an LE contract overrun LE box (3 mags, optic height night sights, metal optics plates) 2.0 Compact OR late last year for just over $400 + shipping and tax. Searching SKUs on Wikiarms/gun.deals is how I found that deal for him.