Steel and aluminum cased .38/357 ammo

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Ron In MD

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For those who have shot .38/357 mag ammo in your revolvers, give me your pros and cons of this ammo.

Thanks.
 
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My only experience was during the 1980's when my department was issuing CCI Blazer aluminum cased .38 Special ammo. I recall no problems.
 
My only experience wasn't with a revolver it was with a compact Beretta 92. No problems at all. Well, I was a little ticked that I couldn't reload the cases.
 
I bought a few boxes of Tula .38 when ammo was hard to find years ago. Always went bang. A few times the case would stick I n the cylinder and you have to be forceful or use a pencil. Som guns it happened to..others it didn’t For plinking ammo it’s fine if it’s all you cAn find. I’d stick with brass case just because I reload now. I would not use it outside of a range though...due to sticking.
As an FYI, I read an article about reloading steel and aluminum casings. I experimented...I’ve reloaded the steel cases several times before they split. I only use this for my black powder loads. I have a single 1905 that I shoot bp with. It’s fun, my kid likes it, and I don’t have to worry about mixing bp tainted brass with it and makes them easy to spot
 
Aluminum is fine but steel is notorious for gumming up chambers with it's lacquer finish. Steel on steel can also cause extra finish wear.
Personally, I wouldn't run any steel ammo in any gun I own. There are plenty of cheap alternatives these days.
 
I ran one box of aluminum cased Blazer .38sp during the drought.
I had at least one split case, and they were difficult to eject.
That was the end of that.
 
Somewhat Related - 45 Colt Blazer ammo

I used to carry a S&W 625 Mountain Gun while deer hunting and riding my ATV out in the boonies. The holster is a Bianchi nylon flap holster on a nylon belt with cartridge loops. I'm going to guess that these Blazer 45 colt loads spent at least two seasons in those cartridge loops.

Being in the construction industry for 40 years now, I know that the more noble metal (copper) should not remain in contact with a much lesser noble metal, such as aluminum. Galvanic corrosion will occur, and at an advanced pace with the presence of moisture.

But I never made the connection in ammo until I unloaded my cartridge belt to put it away one Spring. I was shocked at first when I saw these rounds in this condition. Until it dawned on me what had happened.

I no longer keep aluminum cased copper bullets for any length of time. I just shoot them soon after I find a sale I can't pass up. I've kept this one as a reminder/keepsake.
 

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I've used Blazer Aluminum 357 Magnum ammo for practice.

Worked fine for me in the M60 and LCR.

A pretty mild practice load.

Tried the Blazer Brass version of the same load and found it had significantly greater recoil. More powerful.

Also worked well.

The brass version would even be a reasonable carry load if you are on a tight budget and didn't want to pay for Gold Dots or Critical Defense etc.
 
kraynky said:
I used to carry a S&W 625 Mountain Gun while deer hunting and riding my ATV out in the boonies. The holster is a Bianchi nylon flap holster on a nylon belt with cartridge loops. I'm going to guess that these Blazer 45 colt loads spent at least two seasons in those cartridge loops.

Being in the construction industry for 40 years now, I know that the more noble metal (copper) should not remain in contact with a much lesser noble metal, such as aluminum. Galvanic corrosion will occur, and at an advanced pace with the presence of moisture.

But I never made the connection in ammo until I unloaded my cartridge belt to put it away one Spring. I was shocked at first when I saw these rounds in this condition. Until it dawned on me what had happened.

I no longer keep aluminum cased copper bullets for any length of time. I just shoot them soon after I find a sale I can't pass up. I've kept this one as a reminder/keepsake.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the picture. Good to know these things.
And thanks to all for your information.
 
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No problems from me, but two observations.

1. .38spl steel case was weak & mild to the point of not sealing the cyl, leaving soot up the side.

2. Steel cased fodder is as dirty as Winchester White Box Value Pack ammo. Winchester and the steel case guys must have a source for explosive dirt to use as powder.

Heck, I even ran some laquered steel case through a hot sub-gun full-auto.
 
I have never seen steel .357 or .38 Special, but I wouldn't use it. I have zero use for steel cased ammo. Blazer and Federal aluminum cased works fine.
 
Never had an issue with all of the Aluminum ammunition I've fired. I found that the Blazer .158 grain .357 seemed to be a slightly less than full power loading. I do not have a Chronograph but judging by a recoil comparison it seemed just slightly softer.
 
badge said:
Never had an issue with all of the Aluminum ammunition I've fired. I found that the Blazer .158 grain .357 seemed to be a slightly less than full power loading. I do not have a Chronograph but judging by a recoil comparison it seemed just slightly softer.
Click to expand...

Another poster chrono'd this Blazer .357 load at 990 fps in 3" bbl. I buy this load by the case for practice, although I have used it for "business." There is (was?) a similar Blazer 158gr JFP in .38 Spl that worked well in both 2" and 4" bbls.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
I always use Brass because the .38 Spl. is one of the calibers that always gets reloaded. Quite honestly, I rarely see any financial benefit worth buying Aluminum for. It's not all that much cheaper and even if you never reload, the once shot Brass can be sold to make up the buck or two difference.
 
I HAVE SHOT A FEW BOXES OF ALUMINUM CASED BLAZER W/O A PROBLEM---WHEN IT WAS THE ONLY AMMO ON THE SHELF OF MY LGS....

I ALSO SHOT A CASE OF STEEL CASED WOLF .223 OUT OF MY BUSHMASTER, W/O AN ISSUE.....
 
The steel cased ammo may have copper plated steel jacketed bullets. A magnet is a quick easy check. The steel jacketed bullets do have lead cores. I have learned this from personal experience. Send me a PM for all the details.
 
I'll try to make this short...

Through a revolver? I won't buy steel/aluminum cased ammo. First off, it's often filthy stuff and leaves your gun a hot mess. Second, some of the ammo, like this Tula here:

50 Round Box - 38 Special 130 Grain FMJ Steel Case Ammo by Tulammo | SGAmmo.com

Uses a magnetic projectile = soft steel projectiles.

I've ran literally 1000's of rounds of ammo like that (from Wolf, or the "bear" lines) through my AR and never had a single problem with any of it (besides being dirty and stinky). If it messes with my extractor...$15 and the problem is solved. If it eats the barrel over time, less than $200 and that problem is solved as well. No, I've never had any feeding issues or the lacquer (or zinc, or polymer) coating coming off or gumming things up like many like to claim.

Steel jacketed projectiles chewing up the barrel of my revolver? That's a different story.

If cleaning your revolver for 90 min is your thing, this ammo is cheap (and smelly):
Prvi Partizan - 38 Special, 50 Rd, FMJ 130 Grain Ammo | SGAmmo

If you don't mind $2 more a box and want to do less cleaning:
50 round box - 38 Special 130 Grain FMJ Ammo by Fiocchi - 38A | SGAmmo.com
 
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