I live on a farm with ponds and carry a 642-2 everywhere. I keep a single shotshell positioned so it will shoot first for snakes. I tried to open the cylinder last night and to my surprise, it was locked. Went outside and tried to pull the trigger without success. The plastic capsule had slid forward against the frame and would not pass the forcing cone. The same could happen with a bullet but not as likely. No one else may ever do this but thought it was interesting anyway.
Shotshell caution
- Thread starter RT44nut
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That’s interesting. Did the case crack and release the shot capsule? Brass or Aluminum case? They’re Aluminum, aren’t they?
OP
They are aluminum and not cracked but was able to push it back without much force.
Was that a factory loaded CCI shotshells or hand loads?
Had you previously shot the gun with the shotshell in the cylinder?
Had you previously shot the gun with the shotshell in the cylinder?
I've had the same thing happen with the "Strike 3" ammo..which is 3 balls of OO buck in a plastic capsule and sold as a defensive load.The first round goes off but the plastic covers move forward on the remaining rounds and jams the cylinder from rotating. Not too effective if you need another shot! Only happens with my lightweight J frames. Always test what you are going to carry.
Bullets only for me!
Bullets only for me!
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Mike-AK
Member
I wonder if you could run 'em through a crimp die to put a light crimp on them and hold them together?
Green Frog
Member
How about a pass through a taper crimp die? I’d be concerned a roll crimp might make a weak spot in the shot casing and lead to separation (and leaving pert of the plastic in the bore-read “obstruction”).
Froggie
Froggie
Yes, you can put a "slight" roll crimp on the plastic Speer capsules and for me they have never moved. It may take a little trial and error to determine the "slight" amount of crimp.
OP
It is a factory load and the gun hadn’t been fired with that round in it. I cut a lot grass, use the tractor, mechanic, etc. with it in a holster on my side and it takes a lot of jarring and bumps. Not a lot to crimp with the plastic capsule in an aluminum case.
OP
Thanks for the discussion. I’m new to the site, wasn’t sure where to post, and didn’t know if it was a worthy topic.
Maybe some permatex or caulking might solve the problem ?
Crimping will work if you don't over crimp that plastic case !!
Good luck.
Crimping will work if you don't over crimp that plastic case !!
Good luck.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
@RT44nut,
Welcome to the forum.
The only topic not worthy here is the one not asked about. Your question and the answers will probably help many here who for some reason don't ask.
I load .38 Special shotshells all the time. I put a light roll crimp on them all with no ill effects. Do a little experimentation to find out the limits before you crack the plastic capsule. You can then take those shells and put a light crimp on them to make sure you don't get bullet pull again. I have a feeling the very light J frame you are using had a part in the problem. I know because I shoot a M442 which is just as light.
If you are considering crimping the factory ammo I guess you are set up to reload. Why not load your own shells? You can then use brass cases and use any shot size you want. I use #12 shot in the ones I load. Of course #12 shot is not easy to find and who want to but a whole bag when you only need a little for that ammo. I bought a box of a very cheap brand of 12ga shells and opened them up to harvest the shot. The yield will allow you to load A LOT of .38 snake shot.
Speer Empty Shot Capsules 38 Special Box of 50 (unfortunately on backorder right now)
Good luck on fixing the shells and again, welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
The only topic not worthy here is the one not asked about. Your question and the answers will probably help many here who for some reason don't ask.
I load .38 Special shotshells all the time. I put a light roll crimp on them all with no ill effects. Do a little experimentation to find out the limits before you crack the plastic capsule. You can then take those shells and put a light crimp on them to make sure you don't get bullet pull again. I have a feeling the very light J frame you are using had a part in the problem. I know because I shoot a M442 which is just as light.
If you are considering crimping the factory ammo I guess you are set up to reload. Why not load your own shells? You can then use brass cases and use any shot size you want. I use #12 shot in the ones I load. Of course #12 shot is not easy to find and who want to but a whole bag when you only need a little for that ammo. I bought a box of a very cheap brand of 12ga shells and opened them up to harvest the shot. The yield will allow you to load A LOT of .38 snake shot.
Speer Empty Shot Capsules 38 Special Box of 50 (unfortunately on backorder right now)
Good luck on fixing the shells and again, welcome to the forum.
I am not at all a fan of the blue CCI shot capsules. Try shooting a few at close range on a cardboard laying flat on the ground. The 'pattern' often includes a slug hole with a only a few scattered pellets.
If you are set up to reload, check around and find several tutorials on diy shot shells from 357 mag cases. I have made VERY effective DIY revolver shot shells.
If you are set up to reload, check around and find several tutorials on diy shot shells from 357 mag cases. I have made VERY effective DIY revolver shot shells.
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I am also not a fan of the pistol / revolver shot-shells with the blue caps. If I owned or lived on a rural setting a revolver chambered in .410 (the Judge, the Governor, etc) makes more sense as the .410 shot shells are reliable and much more potent.
I don't really care much for the Judge or the Governor however in this case, they do make perfect sense and IMHO it is where they shine.
I don't really care much for the Judge or the Governor however in this case, they do make perfect sense and IMHO it is where they shine.
A few years ago I was going to buy some .22 shot shells but .410 shells were cheaper. I don't know about todays prices but the .410 is so much more effective I wouldn't price the .22s. Larry
Tex1001
Member
I tried a small drop on some loaded rounds and got good results.
I was a little uneasy about it, so I used a Lee collet crimp die that
I made from a 357 Mag die to stabilize the capsules.
Successful, but crimp can be overdone.
Not much crimp is required to hold them in place.
rockquarry
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Best advice. I've loaded a lot of these, but not recently. I've wondered about using glue, but never tried it and probably won't. The capsules are incredibly fragile, but it's worth the effort to experiment with degree of crimp. They're effective on snakes with fine shot out to about ten feet, but I'd be very aware of what's behind you're target if it's a hard surface like concrete or rocks. I've never had pellets bounce back, but it's possible.
Advantage Colt!
Once a year a buddy and I go on a 3-day hunt for prairie dogs. Rattlesnakes are absolutely a part of this experience and over the ten years I've done it, we've never not killed at least one very unhappy rattlesnake on this trip and while I do not live in heavy snake country like many of you folks do, I've learned some things about shooting them with handguns.
I cannot imagine having revolver shot shells for this task. I've shot multiple snakes with .38 Wadcutters and .45 Flat Points.
A 12 gauge would be my first choice but this is a hiking hunt and I'm not bringing a second long gun for snakes. Rattlesnakes are tough little beasts and a revolver shot shell is just less medicine than I want for them.
I cannot imagine having revolver shot shells for this task. I've shot multiple snakes with .38 Wadcutters and .45 Flat Points.
A 12 gauge would be my first choice but this is a hiking hunt and I'm not bringing a second long gun for snakes. Rattlesnakes are tough little beasts and a revolver shot shell is just less medicine than I want for them.
