I’m guessing these are 1950s?

Boxes certainly are nowhere near pristine, but they are full and attractive.

Any idea as to date of manufacture and value?

So as not to skew responses, I’ll state what I paid for the pair later.

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The .38 box is typical of the late 1930s. The .44 box design began in 1946, and was used through the 1950s. Lot number stamps on the boxes can be used to date them fairly precisely.

Where are those lot numbers located?

I’m used to dealing with earlier stuff such as 11-06 in the corner of a box, which translates to November 1906.

On the flap of the .38 Special box on the inside is stamped 12 29 22E and on the loose flap of the .44 Special box on the inside is stamped 7M63 25.

Value? I don’t know if I did well or not. I know I didn’t get a screaming bargain, but I might have paid a bit less than these are really worth?

My best loading date guesses are 12/2/1939 and 6/25/1953. And those dates correspond to the box graphics designs. But I can't guarantee anything.

The number in the corner (11-06) is not a loading date. It is the date that the box graphics design started.

There are quite a few collectible ammo dealer websites you can check retail prices with.

What’s the principle between turning those codes into dates?

I did look on Ward’s Auctions for several completed auctions and couldn’t find anything like these on that site. Some remotely alike, but not the same as to caliber and manufacture.

I paid $44 for both these boxes as well as a full box of modern 20 gauge shells and a half box of 20 gauge shells with 8 shells in them. Not all rounds and boxes are valued the same, but 133 rounds of various ammunition for $44 works out to 33 cents a round. And these two boxes have neat graphics.

If anything, the .38 Special box is period for my Registered Magnum which shipped in 1937 and was sighted in at 100 yards with .38 Special rounds. Works out well, as I believed this box to be 1950s vintage.

How does one translate the codes into dates, as in Post # 6, above?

I myself do not get spending large sums for old boxes of ammo, for ammo's sake, but you got a deal. Now for collecting, getting a period box of ammo for a vintage gun is nice if the price is not GunJoker type inflated levels. For instance I have some odds and ends of loose rounds I got for nothing or nearly nothing. I bought some rimfire rounds in case I ever want to display a 19th century revolver I got and seeing the actual ammo for it is interesting. But I could not afford a box full.

The basic pattern was:
First one or two digits: month
Next digit: last digit of year
A space: then day of the month

Letters are generally identified as packers codes during the time frame of the OP's boxes. By the 1950's Winchester/Western also used letter codes to indicate which plant actually made the ammo as either plant might produce ammo for the other division. Box styles changed over time which helps eliminate confusion over which decade.

In 1957 Winchester went to using the Western coding system which is a bit different.

The problem is the ammo you have is still being made. 38 Special is common stuff as is 44 Special.

If the ammunition were in a hard to source caliber like 32 WCF, or an obsolete caliber like 41 Long Colt it would be valuable. Since the cartridges are still in production today the ammo is worth pretty much the same as anything you could buy.

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I agree, not super valuable, I knew that when I bought it. But the graphics are better than a new production box.

What’s a box of .38 Special and .44 Special go for these days.

I can answer my own question.

Midway shows a box of .38 Special, 50 rounds, at $33.99 and .44 Special, 50 rounds, at $45.99. A box of 25 20 gauge shells is $10.99. So, $90.97 and then there’s sales tax and shipping. And I got an extra 8 20 gauge shells on top of that.

I bought the boxes for the graphics.

I think you did alright.
Something I've been curious about is the BHN of these older lead bullets.
Anyway you could do a simple "pencil" test on the .38's? If not, no worries

Where do I find one of those devices cheaply? They seem expensive for what they are.

There is some good info about a simple pencil test for lead hardness. The "official" BHN testers are expensive .. at least the accurate ones are. Just a rough idea would suit me just fine.

I believe you did okay - The boxes are great

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I believe you did okay - The boxes are great!

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SWCA 3749 SWHF 867