Lead VS FMJ for gun cleaning.

Wdbutcher97

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I'm sure this has been asked multiple times, but I'm having issues with my search option. I just purchased a .357 Magnum revolver off of Gunbroker and I have been checking ammo prices. I guess I didn't know that lead ammo was still available for larger caliber revolvers. I saw that it's substantially cheaper than FMJ. How much tougher is it to clean a revolver after shooting lead ammo compared to FMJ ammo?
 
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I'm sure this has been asked multiple times, but I'm having issues with my search option. I just purchased a .357 Magnum revolver off of Gunbroker and I have been checking ammo prices. I guess I didn't know that lead ammo was still available for larger caliber revolvers. I saw that it's substantially cheaper than FMJ. How much tougher is it to clean a revolver after shooting lead ammo compared to FMJ ammo?

About the same effort required unless you get an incredible amount of leading; then more brushing is necessary.
 
For full power .357 Magnum loads, I stick with jacketed bullets. Having said that, I shoot a ton of target .38 Special with lead wadcutters or semi-wadcutters in both my .357 revolvers. At target velocities or slightly higher, I don't get any leading at all.
 
Cast bullets will work very well at magnum velocities without leading if your bullets fit well and are of an alloy that matches the pressure/velocity of the load. Fit is always the most important factor, however.

Such bullets will shoot at least as accurately as jacketed bullets with proper load development. There is really no advantage to jacketed bullets in any handgun chambering if you are using the right cast bullet, but getting there can be more work than many want to do or have the time for.
 
The lead bullets you may be seeing, unless specifically stated otherwise, likely are not hard cast. They will be made from a softer lead alloy and may leave a little or a lot of lead in your forcing cone and / or barrel if driven to higher velocities. It may just be some trial and error for you until you find the right bullet for your revolver.
 
As noted above, hard cast lead bullets shouldn't lead much if at all. However, if you're buying over the counter ammo at the LGS, any lead bullet alloy isn't likely to be hard cast lead.

Given softer lead, it depends upon velocity. The old Winchester Luballoy .357 would make your rifling disappear in 6 shots. I've used Berry's plated bullets in .357 up to 1250 f/s or so without leading.

OTOH, just because it says ".357 Magnum" on the barrel doesn't mean you have to shoot that. Just in case, you might want to visit the Brownell's website and pick up the Lewis lead remover tool set. Saves a whole lot of aggravation. Currently out of stock, you can ask to be notified when it's back in stock.
 
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FMJ bullets do not produce leading. Most lead bullets do leave lead in barrels. Unless you reload, and you want to avoid leading, go with FMJ or JHP projectiles.
 
Don’t mess with lead factory loads.

I don’t even cast bullets anymore.

If you’re buying ammo, buy one weight. I suggest 158. Buy one brand. Pick any major manufacturer. The days of being able to reload better ammo than you can buy are lone gone. I still reload. But when it really counts, I buy factory.
 
Don’t mess with lead factory loads.

I don’t even cast bullets anymore.

If you’re buying ammo, buy one weight. I suggest 158. Buy one brand. Pick any major manufacturer. The days of being able to reload better ammo than you can buy are lone gone. I still reload. But when it really counts, I buy factory.

A handloader with an interest in load development can still make more accurate (better?) ammo than you can buy. If your goal is low and you want only to make something that will fire, then you would certainly be better off buying factory ammo. Nothing wrong with cast bullets either, unless you make poor quality ones.
 
FMJ bullets do not produce leading. Most lead bullets do leave lead in barrels. Unless you reload, and you want to avoid leading, go with FMJ or JHP projectiles.

Clarification here; jacketed bullets generally cause no leading deposits but can (and regularly do) leave varying degrees of fouling by transferring of the jacketing material to the lands and grooves, and this can be especially difficult to remove with routine cleaning methods. Bullet jackets are usually made of copper alloys ranging from pure copper to bronze (copper-tin alloy) or brass (copper-zinc alloy). Some manufacturers utilize aluminum alloys or mild steel, sometimes with a light plating of copper alloy, sometimes with a coating of lacquer (with or without coloring added).

Wear and tear on the firearm and bore surfaces are one factor to keep in mind, but very few recreational shooters will ever fire enough ammo to "shoot out" the bore of any firearm. Residual deposits of bullet jacket metal can require much more effort to remove than any amount of leading deposit, and the resulting wear and tear can be far more serious than recreational shooting is likely to cause.

There are solvents specifically formulated to help remove copper fouling (the most common bullet jacketing material), when used in compliance with the maker's instructions (usually specifying application methods, working time, and removal methods). There are also some solvents that can be corrosive, particularly to parts made of aluminum alloys, or to certain types of finishes (such as nickel plating).

Leading deposits from cast or swaged lead alloy bullets can be a chore, but removal methods are really straightforward. The lead alloys are all much softer than barrel steel and much softer than good bronze bore brushes, so removal is simply a matter of repetitive brushing to remove the leading deposits and return to bare steel in the bore, chambers, forcing cones, etc.

Individual firearms, regardless of manufacturer or reputation, may display measurable differences in dimensional tolerances. SAAMI nominal specifications may call for .357" jacketed or .358" lead-alloy bullets, but very well known and respected revolvers may have chamber throats, forcing cones, bore and groove diameters that vary considerably in manufacturing tolerances. A standard rifled bore might be .350" with .358" rifling groove diameters, but a variance of several thousands of an inch is pretty common in production pieces. The drills, cutters, and reamers used in production are expensive precision tools that remain in use over the course of several thousand applications, starting out slightly larger and remaining in use until worn down in use to below the manufacturer's tolerances (and those tolerances will vary from one company to another).

There is only one real commonality, and that is the fact that every firearm will require cleaning after use.
 
Powder coated cast lead bullets are probably the most economical solution. They cost a little more than traditional cast lead bullets, but still less than copper plated and quite a bit less than jacketed bullets. The powder coating should prevent leading unless the coating gets damaged during the bullet seating process.
 
The original coated bullet was the S&W Nyclad bullets/ammunition. They sold the process to Federal ages ago. Now the patents have expired and a lot of folks are using the process. Coated bullet ammo by major manufacturers would be the way to go if you want to try it.

I recall buying some unused RNL Nyclad bullets and loaded them back in the last century. Don't recall leading, but I wasn't driving them at magnum velocities.
 
I don't shoot nearly the amount of lead through cartridge revolvers and pistols anymore since I discovered plated bullets. I don't shoot them any faster than I would lead and they work great and there is zero issue with cleaning lead residue anywhere, I like that. The only firearms I shoot lead through on a regular basis are semi autos and muzzle loaders. I used to cast a ton of bullets but had lead in my blood level reach a warning point and backed off and saw a spiked decrease. I hate to wear a respirator while casting but thats where the safe money is anymore.
 
A lot of responses discuss coated/cast bullets. These are generally not available in factory ammo. They are available for reloaders. The lead bullets in factory ammo are pure swaged lead which has a bad habit of leading significantly. There's a load of two that might be O.K. but you probably want to stick with jacketed bullets in factory ammo.
 
I shoot tons and tons of lead .38 specials in all my revolvers - only a slight amount of minor leading that comes right out with normal cleaning, but I do clean them after each and every range session so they don't have a build up. When shooting Magnums I usually shoot jacketed ammo. I also make it a practice to always shoot jacketed ammo before I shoot lead if at the same range session. I do not want the jacketed bullets pressing the lead into the lands and grooves even farther and making it more difficult to remove. The old wives tale about shooting a few magnums through after shooting lots of lead to "clean the barrel out" is a bunch of hooey IMHO and something that actually makes the lead removal harder.

Once in a while after shooting 250-300 + lead bullets in one day I will do a pass with the Lewis Lead Remover tool before using Hoppes 9. While the Hoppes 9 and a bronze bore brush will remove the minor leading by itself, the process is sped up quite a bit by using the LLR first. After my normal 100 rounds of lead, the G96 Synthetic CLP does just fine with a Bronze bore brush - no big deal. Again, magnums shot from my guns are almost always semi jacketed - just makes life easier.
 
Personally I think the only reason to shoot FMJ is if you are shooting at an indoor range and the range insists on it. I have shot lead in all my pistols and revolvers as well as my .30-06 with great accuracy. Staying below 5 gr of unique in my 9MM keeps the leading away, actually 4.7 gr is my favourite load with 124 gr lead bullets and I get NO leading in any of my nines. Once I went to a hard lube I eliminated leading in my .45acp as well.

I cast my own which just adds to the enjoyment of my shooting sports.

Stay Safe
 
I cast and size my own lead projectiles. The RCBS K.T. 150 grn SWC is hard to beat in any 38 Spl. or 357 Mag load. Use 2400, 4227 and Unique and sometimes Bullseye. Since those powder are gone have to figure new loads. Hoppes removed everything in the bore and on face of cylinder if one does it correct.
 
I cast and size my own lead projectiles. The RCBS K.T. 150 grn SWC is hard to beat in any 38 Spl. or 357 Mag load. Use 2400, 4227 and Unique and sometimes Bullseye. Since those powder are gone have to figure new loads. Hoppes removed everything in the bore and on face of cylinder if one does it correct.

This is the ammo forum, not the reloading forum. I don't believe the OP reloads and is asking about factory ammo.
 

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