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04-16-2012, 01:34 PM
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S&W 686 2.5 inch vs. 3 inch concealment
Hi
Other than the 1/2 inch, is there much difference concealing a 3 inch model 686 like the Talo version, vs. a 2.5 inch 686? I know the grips are a little different. But, what do you think, much difference in ability to conceal?
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04-16-2012, 02:35 PM
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no i don't think so i have a 2 1/2 the 3" should be no different the only gripe i have is it is but heavy and which i think is the holster problem because the cyl sits above the belt, it is a high ride holster and i think it could be alot better if it was dropped down right at the belt line .
i like my 2 1/2 i got to the range on friday and this gun is very accurate better than me at 15 to 20 yrds full house 357 158 grn did not recoil as hard as i was thinking it would be, very manageable imho what i find interesting is people say the the 2 1/2 has the short ejection rod which makes dumping the 357 harder i did not have that problem at all with mine it was easier that the 38 i was trying to extract .
bottom line get the gun in either style you prefer it is it is an awesome gun , just need to figure the best method for getting the carbon rings out from shooting the 38.
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04-16-2012, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVL33
just need to figure the best method for getting the carbon rings out from shooting the 38.
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.40 caliber bore brush? Also, Brownell's sells stainless steel 'Revolver Chamber Brushes.'
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04-16-2012, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlanecole
.40 caliber bore brush? Also, Brownell's sells stainless steel 'Revolver Chamber Brushes.'
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that seems to be a very good method from what i am hearing , you know i made the mistake of using my 45.cal bronze brush to start cleaning my my bore and did not realize it ohhh well hope i did not do some harm, it looks like i have a good size carbon ring also just past the forcing cone inside the barrel that i cant seem to get clean as well using hoppes #9 i got the carbon rings in the cyl pretty good but not good enough for me it is alot of work thx for the tip.
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04-16-2012, 06:17 PM
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I have carried both the 2.5" & 3", not at the same time, cross draw and there isn't much difference between the two.
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04-16-2012, 07:10 PM
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For carbon rings use a chamber mop and some Flitz polish.
Chuck the mop into a hand drill on low speed and polish it right out!
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04-16-2012, 09:57 PM
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the 686, is a L frame will be a bit thicker than the 66, which is a k frame.
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04-16-2012, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martyg
Hi
Other than the 1/2 inch, is there much difference concealing a 3 inch model 686 like the Talo version, vs. a 2.5 inch 686? I know the grips are a little different. But, what do you think, much difference in ability to conceal?
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Zero difference if carrying IWB or in a gun pouch/fanny pack. OWB holster would have to be ½-¾" longer is all.
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04-16-2012, 10:39 PM
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Here's a photo that gives a fairly good side by side look of the two.
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04-21-2012, 11:30 PM
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In my opinion the 686+ w/3" barrel is the best all-around revolver you can own for CCW or home defense.
It's well balanced, eminently concealable, and a lot of fun at the range as well.
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04-22-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titan
In my opinion the 686+ w/3" barrel is the best all-around revolver you can own for CCW or home defense.
It's well balanced, eminently concealable, and a lot of fun at the range as well.
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Right on!
All of which makes me wonder - why did S&W make so few of them?
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04-22-2012, 03:01 PM
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S&W still makes the M686+ w/3" bbl., at least as of 2010 they did.
I went to a local gun shop (LGS), ordered it one day and got the "It's here"
call the very next day. A week later it was off to Pistolsmith, Teddy Jacobson,
Actions by "T", for some refinement. It's one of my favorites....
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Last edited by ogilvyspecial; 04-22-2012 at 03:07 PM.
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04-23-2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogilvyspecial
S&W still makes the M686+ w/3" bbl., at least as of 2010 they did.
I went to a local gun shop (LGS), ordered it one day and got the "It's here"
call the very next day. A week later it was off to Pistolsmith, Teddy Jacobson,
Actions by "T", for some refinement. It's one of my favorites....
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A beauty! Great pics too!
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04-24-2012, 02:08 PM
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ogilvyspecial: what are the grips on that 686? Where'd you pick them up?
Marty
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04-24-2012, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martyg
ogilvyspecial: what are the grips on that 686? Where'd you pick them up?
Marty
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Marty, those are Ahrends Combat Grips. Luckily I found them, new in the package,
on a local gun forum in the classifieds a couple of years ago for $30 shipped.
I think they usually run twice that much new.
I just went through my grip box and sold off a few grips, the Ahrends
stayed here, which should tell you something.
Since this gun is one of our "house guns" it's always wearing these.
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Last edited by ogilvyspecial; 04-24-2012 at 04:07 PM.
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04-27-2012, 09:45 AM
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i just love my 686 with the 2 1/2'' barrel....easy to conceal if need be but its strictly my go-to home defense gun. ive had it for 7 years and many guns have come and gone but this one will never be parted with....plus it was my first handgun ever
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04-28-2012, 12:03 PM
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Does anyone have any pics of IWB holsters (and manufacturer) for the 3 inch 686 that you can post please?
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04-28-2012, 04:05 PM
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martyg:
Tucker makes a nice IWB and so does Lobo, imho.
Attached are some pics of my Tucker holster. Lots of adjustment for ride height and cant and it is very comfy.
HTH,
Chris
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04-28-2012, 05:00 PM
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I think the 3" gives you a full length ejector rod, while the 2.5" is short.
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04-28-2012, 06:07 PM
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Chris
Thanks. Nice rig.
I have a Texas Heritage for a 1911. I really like the holster and comfort. But I have a tendency to break those Kydex clips. I may go with leather belt loops. I have a message into Tucker on using leather loops.
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04-29-2012, 04:33 PM
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martyg:
Thank you! I have a littler one of the 640 and it is easy to forget it's on the hip.
If Tucker can't supply leather loops then please call Ray at Lobo Gunleather. You won't be sorry.
Chris
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01-05-2013, 08:03 PM
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What model/year did they introduce the lock for the 3"
Anyone know?
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01-06-2013, 08:16 PM
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I Carry my K Frames at 4 O'Clock in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake. The 3" is on the maximum end to still access your back pocket under the holster.
The 3" is my favorite length. It will have a Full Length Ejector Rod, a little more sight radius, a little more velocity, and is still a concealable length.
I have Altamont Checkered Rosewood Finger Groove Boot Grips on both my 2.5" 315NG, and my 3" 66-2. The grips really help with concealment.
Bob
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01-08-2013, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titan
In my opinion the 686+ w/3" barrel is the best all-around revolver you can own for CCW or home defense.
It's well balanced, eminently concealable, and a lot of fun at the range as well.
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Yes sir. I got mine for it's versatility but they're also darned good looking revolvers as well
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01-08-2013, 01:37 AM
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I have 686+ 3" with Ahrends Boot Grips, which I carry in a Sparks VM2. The cylinder is right below the belt line, which puts the grip at just the right height. The VM2 has a steel reinforcement, which keeps the holster from collapsing. That makes it easy to draw, and easy to reholster with one hand.
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01-21-2013, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neumann
I have 686+ 3" with Ahrends Boot Grips, which I carry in a Sparks VM2. The cylinder is right below the belt line, which puts the grip at just the right height. The VM2 has a steel reinforcement, which keeps the holster from collapsing. That makes it easy to draw, and easy to reholster with one hand.
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I just placed an order for the 3" 686 and have been thinking about the VM2. Coincidentally I've also been looking at Ahrends boot grips. Your picture was helpful, looks like a nice combination.
How practical would you say the VM2 is for regular carry as an IWB holster? Is this something you've worn for extended periods and would you say it's comfortable, manageable or what?
Thanks.
Jim K.
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01-21-2013, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogilvyspecial
Here's a photo that gives a fairly good side by side look of the two.

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I have three just like these, I carry the 3" in a EB holster I made for it, I also made a on the belt holster so the cylinder rides at the belt line and it conceals well with a jacket or with shirt out. I can carry the 2.5" in the same rigs.
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01-22-2013, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimk686
I just placed an order for the 3" 686 and have been thinking about the VM2. Coincidentally I've also been looking at Ahrends boot grips. Your picture was helpful, looks like a nice combination.
How practical would you say the VM2 is for regular carry as an IWB holster? Is this something you've worn for extended periods and would you say it's comfortable, manageable or what?
Thanks.
Jim K.
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I don't carry the 686 on a regular basis, but I have carried it all day for several days in the Pacific Northwest. The cylinder tends to ride on top of your hip bone, taking most of the weight off the belt. At 36 oz, it's easier to carry than a full sized 1911 (40 oz), which I've done extensively. The boot grip doesn't stick out or print, yet is easy to grab.
I prefer the tactical round butt grip for a .44 Mag, since the longer grip helps control the considerable torque that big slug develops. I have a VM2 on order for a 3" 629, based on my favorable experience with the 686.
I have several VM2s for various pistols, ranging from the 686 down to a little Springfield XPs. There is nothing quite so comfortable and effective. There's a slot halfway down the front "wing" which helps the holster conform to your body. The loops have two screws which prevent rotation and loosening. Notice the wrinkles just under the snaps? If you bend the loop backwards at the onset, it makes it easy (ie possible) to fasten them with one hand around your belt. They're one-way, so you have to engage them from the bottom up.
Last edited by Neumann; 01-22-2013 at 01:23 AM.
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01-22-2013, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neumann
I don't carry the 686 on a regular basis, but I have carried it all day for several days in the Pacific Northwest. The cylinder tends to ride on top of your hip bone, taking most of the weight off the belt. At 36 oz, it's easier to carry than a full sized 1911 (40 oz), which I've done extensively. The boot grip doesn't stick out or print, yet is easy to grab.
I prefer the tactical round butt grip for a .44 Mag, since the longer grip helps control the considerable torque that big slug develops. I have a VM2 on order for a 3" 629, based on my favorable experience with the 686.
I have several VM2s for various pistols, ranging from the 686 down to a little Springfield XPs. There is nothing quite so comfortable and effective. There's a slot halfway down the front "wing" which helps the holster conform to your body. The loops have two screws which prevent rotation and loosening. Notice the wrinkles just under the snaps? If you bend the loop backwards at the onset, it makes it easy (ie possible) to fasten them with one hand around your belt. They're one-way, so you have to engage them from the bottom up.
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Thanks for the follow up, very helpful.
Jim K.
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01-25-2013, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVL33
bottom line get the gun in either style you prefer it is it is an awesome gun , just need to figure the best method for getting the carbon rings out from shooting the 38.
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Another trick I picked up to remove carbon buildup that works well is Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. Spread it on with a Qtip or patch and it makes much easier work of getting that carbon out of stubborn areas including those frustrating rings.
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01-25-2013, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambam88
Another trick I picked up to remove carbon buildup that works well is Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. Spread it on with a Qtip or patch and it makes much easier work of getting that carbon out of stubborn areas including those frustrating rings.
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thank for the advise I might check that method out next time I shoot last time I went out I used just straight aft to clean my gun and it worked like a charm carbon rings and all cut my cleaning to almost no time at all.
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01-25-2013, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVL33
thank for the advise I might check that method out next time I shoot last time I went out I used just straight aft to clean my gun and it worked like a charm carbon rings and all cut my cleaning to almost no time at all.
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I'm sorry, can you clarify what you said you used to clean the last time that helped cut your cleaning time down? I'm always curious about new and better ways to clean (and faster is definitely a bonus!).
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01-26-2013, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambam88
I'm sorry, can you clarify what you said you used to clean the last time that helped cut your cleaning time down? I'm always curious about new and better ways to clean (and faster is definitely a bonus!).
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oops sorry I should have proofread my post better I used tranny fluid to clean my gun and it worked great cut the carbon and rings in the chambers real quick.
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01-28-2013, 03:04 AM
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I use a liberal dose of REM Oil on the barrel and cylinder. I use a bore snake in the cylinder, preferably one size larger than the caliber.
For a really fouled barrel, the best cleaning agent is time. I run a damp patch through with Hoppe's Bore Cleaner, set a timer for 15 minutes and do something else.
If you want to dress it up for a date with a camera, Flitz and a toothbrush will remove all stains from the front of the cylinder, frame and barrel extension.
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01-28-2013, 10:34 PM
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I used a stainless steel cleaner my wife used to clean our stove and refig. I did a pretty fair job of taking off the rings on the cylinder.
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01-31-2013, 05:53 AM
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If you want it for CC then I say go with the 2.5". The purpose is to conceal it, right? It will be used for self-defense which will be close up so the 3" won't make a difference. I like to appendix carry and the extra 1/2" makes a little difference when sitting down. I have a 386NG which is a 2.5" and I CC with it. I also own a 4" 686.
If I only owned one gun I would buy the 3" and that would be it.
I also think the 3" definitely gives you better accuracy at distances beyond 5 - 7 yards. If that is important than buy the 3" and live with the slightly increased discomfort from the longer barrel and increased weight, assumming you're getting steel.
I got the 386NG bec it's alloy and 7 shot. The 357 magnum is too much in that gun, but 38 and 38+P is wonderful to shoot.
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02-01-2013, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngalt
I think the 3" gives you a full length ejector rod, while the 2.5" is short.
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BINGO!
The 3" Model 13 was the "FBI revolver" for many years. Their load of choice was the 158 grain LSWCHP+P that performed admirably for decades.
Were I to purchase a new .38 caliber revolver, I'd be willing to bet on a S&W Model 65 (a Stainless Steel Model 13.)
Scott
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1911, 640, 686, ahrends, ccw, ejector, heritage, k frame, kydex, l frame, leather, m686, model 686, s&w, smith & wesson, smith and wesson  |
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