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12-20-2009, 10:35 AM
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Winchester collectors: would you reline the barrel of an 1890 pump .22?
I have put a down payment on a very nice looking, original condition, un-molested Winchester 1890 pump .22, caliber .22 short. I'll pick it up after the first of the month. Serial number puts it at 1910 manufacture. The only flaw the rifle has is a worn, pitted barrel. I have only shot the rifle for function testing, so I don't know how accurate the rifle is, but I have low expectations, the bore is that bad.
How much would re-lining the barrel affect the collectors value of the rifle, and how much does re-lining cost?
Thanks,
Canoeguy
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12-20-2009, 11:19 AM
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I was told a reline was in the 200 range, But I really dont know.
I have old Winchesters/ Remingtons and the like, I have one which I cant remember, I think am old Stevens that was $5 dollars and the bore was and still is as dark as night and you have a hard time making out grooves amongst al the pitting and rust, Yet still we get 3" groups at 50 yards.
You can never tell how it will be until you get it out to play!
If it mechanically functions well, Shoot it and see what you think of it's accuracy,,, It may surprise you!
Peter
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12-20-2009, 11:21 AM
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I don't know about values... but I would not jump the gun on relining. I would clean it good first & shoot it. If that didn't work, I'd try fire lapping the barrel (nothng to loose). It might be enough.
Russ
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12-20-2009, 11:26 AM
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Depends where the pitting is. If it's near the breach end and not the muzzle...she still might be a good shooter. Agree with the post above. Clean the ever lovin' heck out of it and fire lap before relining.
giz
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12-20-2009, 11:41 AM
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Well, if a re-line is $200, I guess the rifle would have to shoot horribly before I'd spend that much.
The rifle looks good, will fit in well with my collection, if I need fine accuracy I'll shoot my Model 61 or 62A. Now, if only I could find a nice 1906 pump in good condition, I'll be in tall cotton!
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12-20-2009, 12:55 PM
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I didnt reline mine, but I did have it rechambered from 22 wrf to 22 wmrf. I suppose I greatly lessened the value if I resell it. However someone already did stock work before I bought it.
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12-20-2009, 01:20 PM
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I have a Remington 12-C that has a barrel that sounds a lot like yours. It shoots much better than you'd think.
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12-20-2009, 01:32 PM
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Pitted barrels often shoot well. They will shoot very well with jacketed bullets. They simply require cleaning more often and it takes more work.
With the 22, you are dealing with lead, and the pitting "scrapes" a little lead off each bullet as it passes. As the lead builds up, accuracy may fall off. If it does and how much it does, depends on how much pitting and where in the barrel the pitting is located. Light pitting, IMO, is no big deal even if it covers most of the bore.
I'd sure shoot this thing after cleaning the dickens out of it before I spent any money on it. Also, I've firelapped several barrels and the improvement is usually quite noticeable.
Bob
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12-20-2009, 05:44 PM
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If it's in a true collectors condition on the outside, I'd probably not reline it as anything done to it will reduce that collectors value.
If the collectors value is not the main interest and instead the shootability is,,I'd try it first as already mentioned with several different brands of ammo and see what it will do. It may suprise you.
A reline will cost in the area of $200. Note that a true 22short liner should have a rifling twist specific for that cartridge and is different from the more common 22LR.
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12-20-2009, 06:01 PM
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Give it a regimen of cleaning and soaking. Include a session with JB Bore Cleaner applied per the instructions on the container.
I've played with some pretty ratty looking bores in classic Winchester rifles that still shot a treat despite the apparent ravages from corrosive priming.
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12-20-2009, 08:26 PM
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Relinging
I have made High Standard pistol barrels from .900 diameter 4150 chromoly steel and drilled and reamed to about .315 dia. and fitted a Numrich Arms .22 barrel liner which is about .313-.312 o.d. this was in the early 80's. At that time Brownells said you could use Acroglas to glue the liners in and they would hold, They were right I ran them through our bluing bath at work which ran at 280-285 degrees after I chambered them and they have never shot loose. A drill will follow the bore if you can find a drill long enough to do the job. Get the o.d. of the liner before you try to find a drill. At that time I think the liner cost about 15 dollars. Jeff
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