Seems locally folks are shooting custom built guns from 38 super, 40 and 45acp. They are expensive pieces lots of STI with custom trigger jobs, springs, magwells etc.

I was considering building up a 1911, I know the basics but what the better gun to start with. Government model, National Match or Gold Cup, pre 70 series, 70 or 80 series, new production?

I know I could just buy one and have a great piece out of the box, but.

I do have a pretty well equipt machine shop.

Also what about building up a S&W, Sig, Kimber or other brand 1911?

I have been shooting my M52 but need more capacity and power.

I dont want to open an argument with this...

Springfield Armory Mil spec not the WWII model . Carbon steel frame / slide . Norinco 1911's are good steel also . Ought to be able to find a used one of the above for $ 400 - $ 450 . Caspian slides & frame are also OK . If you want the hassle of having to ream every pin hole Les Baer makes good stuff too . Depends on what you want & what your purpose is too .

One way to save yourself a whole lot of work is to pick up a Les Baer matched slide & frame. All the rail fitting is done for you when the pieces are machined rather than spending hours at the process.

Depending upon what you want to do, one of the issues here is that a lot of the fitting gets potentially very expensive if you're learning by doing, as is acquiring some of the specialized tooling. I'll suggest a Kart barrel, preferrably pick it up from someone like Brownells.

Back in the early 90's I built my .45 ACP using a Les Baer fitted frame and slide plus his parts. I did all the work from barrel fitting to milling the slide for Bomar sights,spent hours checkering the front strap then bead blasted the whole thing before putting in my bluing tanks. Had about a grand + into it when done and I can tell you it will be the last gun I'll ever give up.This darn gun will out shoot any thing in a handgun I've ever shot.

You mentioned that some folks are shooting STI's. A friend has one and I will say I wouldn't buy one and leave it at that. If I had your talent and tools I would build it myself. You would have a gun that you will keep and shoot the rest of your life. Don

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"Don't worry be happy"

Your first thing to do is get a catalog from Brownells. Make an honest appraisal of your talents, then your budget. Since on the first attempt you will probably screw something up, possibly start the first one with a lesser priced model, and build it up. You can sink much more than you imagine in one.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

H Richard got it right! I'm an old retired gunsmith who specialized in anything on a 1911 frame. More than likely you will not be satisfied with your first one or two efforts. My Dad used to say, "You have to build something three times to get it finally right." I found over time that he was pretty much right. IMHO, you will be ahead of the game to buy two Rock Island .45s and start your learning process. Only after you are satisfied with your results should you go on to your 'forever' personal .45acp target pistol. ........... Big Cholla

the 1911 race gun is the craft of the patient man.
I like the idea of the Les Baer matched slide and frame for a starting point.
if you have a Dremel tool and a set of files, and are willing to let the Dremel collect dust while opting for the files for all but the polishing work, you might be cut out for the job.

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it just needs more voltage

Thanks for the thoughts!!

I can get a series 70 MkIV that has cosmetic issues to the finish. It was stored in a rug and rusted leaving blue damage. Mechanically its a good item. I can probably get it for around $500 or $550. My thoughts were to

Add a dovetail and good sights

Trigger job, I would have to buy the tooling for this I suppose

I am not set on this

I do realize that this is a learning event, do overs, mistakes and throw it away its ruined will happen. I like to learn new things and education is expensive. Like many of you folks, I have paid my way through the hard way.

I will check out the Brownells catalog and the RI is an interesting thought also.

The downside to all of this for me is that these things become long term projects. Time is always my limiting factor.

Thanks!!

Unfortunately I dont own a Dremel

Some once told me more guns are ruined by Dremels than all the other reasons combined. I guess they are the Slim Whitman of tools

Seriously, they do have a place...

If you are going to build up a 1911, loan out your dremel tool to a friend that won't return it until your gun is built. If you are starting with a Series 70 Colt, one of the first things you need to add is a beaver-tail grip safety. It is just difficult enough to tell if you have the patience complete a full custom. Can be fully completed with hand tools, needs to be "fit" to your specific gun, not a drop in. And, is one on the enhancements you will enjoy while shooting it. An Eddie Brown beaver-tail and a jig will cost you about $75 max. Here's a Rock Island Armory compact with the beaver-tail added and a new set of better visible sights. That and a trigger job is all that was needed.


The Springfield Armory was a 1980's basic model. It has has the frame rails trued and tightened, extended target trigger installed, and a trigger job to 3 1/2 lbs, lightweight titanium hammer installed, frame stippled, beaver-tail grip safety, and ambidextrous safety 's installed, Bomar sights installed, oversize mag well installed, original mainspring housing ground down to not quite flat, and stippled, frame sent out for metaloy finish, and slide top stippled, them bead blasted, ejection port relieved and sides polished and all reblued. All done in the 80's over a period of about three years. I still shoot it a lot today.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Unless it is something that you really want to do as a hobby or the joy of it can you actually build a better race gun for less money than just buying a custom one like Wilson or Les Brown?

I do not know, just asking. Seems like buying all the parts ends up more than a finished product. I priced out building a desktop computer and found a niche company that built it for less(and better than any store bought) and guaranteed it.

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Still Running Against the Wind

the dremel is a fine tool and one worth having. The catch is thats its so useful that it can be hard for some to know when to leave it on the bench.
in the 1911 craft, it lends itself as the ideal tool for feed ramp polishing as well as slicking up the throat. thereafter it should not make another appearance unless you find it necessary to break the edges of the frame and slide. Even then, the first work is with a file and finish is a buffing wheel.
it might be argued that it could find more use in the project, but stick with the above rules to help stay out of trouble.

the frame is the FFL transferred part and the slide is rather costly. once these are fit, think long and hard about what you want to do to them. think of them as sacred ground. if you treat these two parts right, major mistakes wont fully scrap the gun and at the worst, wont cost much more than 100 to atone for.

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it just needs more voltage

that depends on how many barrels you go through before getting it right
you can go with basic routes and hit the mark under a factory custom price tag and have performance equal to or better or you can throw money at it until you have a $5000 gun.
Either way, you will know this gun more intimately than any other at any price.

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it just needs more voltage

Yes but look at the OP's screen name. He will end up having a cylinder on it.

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Still Running Against the Wind

thats going to be one funky lookin 1911

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it just needs more voltage