...or does this sort of thing only live on as Chinese thrift shop junk? I refer to the once classic style of D guard/ knuckle knives of the type that probably saw its apex during the first world war. Though I vaguely recall that knives of this sort were around in the American Civil War.

Is my best bet to just get a Chinese replica and fit the knuckle part with a blade from a KaBar or does someone make a good quality knife of this sort?

Ontario makes a nice one, and OKC quality is quite good.

Ontario WWII M3 Trench Knife 6-9/16" Carbon Steel Bayonet Blade with Leather Sheath - Knifecenter.com

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I'm with the banned ...

I think he's looking for something like the 1917 or 1918 model trench knives with knuckle guards. I don't know of anyone making a good one. I have a 1918 LF&C model that's all original except the stud on the pommel has been replaced. I paid all of $5.00 for it to a man who worked at the ice house in Albany, Texas about 1972.

Blade magazine shows some every couple of issues. Google "D-guard Bowie" and something should pop up.

Here's a nice one - for $600 it oughta be good:

Relentless Knives

You'll have to scroll most of the way down.

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

Earlier this year I found at the CuttingEdge website a copy of the V-42 produced by Boker. Sadly it is manufactured in china. But, as I cannot find much less afford a WWII era Case made V-42, this Boker copy will have to meet my need for a "tactical letter opener." Yep! Sitting on the side of my desk is this V-42 reproduction that does double duty as a tactical letter opener and conversation starter for when church members come to see me in my office. There is also a nice Naval Officers sword and my beloved late production (2-1956) Springfield M-1 Garand.

Now, possibly... just possibly this reproduction V-42 might stand in for a trench knife... until just exactly what you are looking for comes along. After all, the WWI era German trench knives were not to far from basic utility knives, and they seemed to have served both purposed well in those difficult days. JMHO. Sincerely. brucev.

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Ideally there would be a reasonably priced factory made knife featuring "knuckleguards". Though that custom offering in the 600 to 800 range likely would work... I can not afford that.

I actually like the United Sentry line. Bad sheath and the knuckles are cast alloy that could crack eventually... plus the blade is indifferent chicom stainless. Still for the 20 dollar price tag there is stabby goodness to be had.

I have seen original 1918 trench knife knuckle handles that had a KaBar blade installed. This was sometimes done by Marines in WW2. It is possible to do this with the Chinese replicas but the alloy mix for the knuckle guard handle still is inferior.

I used to have a M1968 Kampfmesser knife and its accompanying metal frog. Paid a out 40$ for it in 1999. It was a latter day descendant of the circa WW 1 German designs. The Ontario MK3 might work and the price is right. I did want one set up like the U.S. issue WW1 knives though. In other words brass knuckles with a knife or dagger and a skull crusher pommel.

The Benchmade Nimravus seems to be the current issue knife for that sort of thing. At least for the Marines. No knuckle guard of course but meant for that sort of encounter. I have had three and still have two. They would work well as a weapon I am sure but lack that apocalyptic ambience of the classic WW1 knives.

grayman knives for a quality combat US made knife-but may not be a knuckle buster.

So is this Zachary's christening gift??

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Forum consigliere

The problem is that we just don't have any good, quality trench warfare anymore. Ahhhh, the good old days.

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Wayne
Torn & Frayed

Here are two examples of trench knives that I made up using some Cold Steel Knives that I picked up at a local flea market. Both knives had torn rubber handles so I got the pair for $30. I used the United Cutlery 1918 repro handles ($19 ea.) and now have better (in my opinion) trench knives than the 1918 originals.

Mark

If I were going to build a trench knife from the ground up today, I would rotate the balse 180 degrees from those shown in bubba's cool photos above. You would get far better purchase on either the slash or plunging cut. Pulling as opposed to pushing the blade.

Should that thing rotate in your hand; you will break the hand, or one or more fingers. Bad scene for a hostile environment.

Regards,

Tam 3

Are you looking for a historical repro or a practical combat/survival knife?

For the latter, I suggest the Fallkniven S-1 or A-1 or the Gryphon M-30A-1, designed by Robert Terzuola, after his own custom combat knives, which he told me were evolved from the M-3 after consultation with mercenary and CIA paramilitary troops working in Central America.

The Gryphon is/was available only through Cutlery Shoppe. They have a site, I believe. If you don't see the Gryphon there, call them to see if any are left. It was/is made with both bright and dull gray satin blades. Without getting up to go check, I think blade steel is ATS-34.

The Fallkniven blades are laminated, with a core steel that's VG-10. They've passed grueling government and university trials in both Sweden and the US, and are authorized for purchase with unit funds for US flight crews, and have a national stock number for the S-1 and F-1. Black-coated blades and Zytel sheaths are optional. They no longer offer Kydex. www.fallkniven.com They do have US dealers, and prices are usually lower than shown on the site, which are posted in Swedish kroner. I've seen dealers here selling the A-1 for about $150, which is a good deal. The smaller S-1 is normally even less. Similar knives with leather and Duralumin handles that look Randall-ish are offered in their more expensive Northern Lights line.

Finally, if on a tighter budget, look at Buck's Model 119 Special. You can tape the bright aluminum pommel, if need be, to avoid reflection. And SOG's original SEAL 2000 has passed very strenuous US Navy tests before being accepted for SEAL issue. The tang is much wider under the "rubber" handle than you'd think; it is a very strong knife.

Randall fans can buy the Models 1, 5, 14, 15, and 16. Model 18 has a hollow handle and saw teeth. I don't like hollow handles, but this model has seen wide use since the early 1960's and seems to hold up well. www.randallknives.com

Avoid brass knuckles, which often make a knife illegal to carry, and which restrict your available grasps of the knife. The WW II Ka-Bar and M-3 are much better designs than the WW I knives with brass knucks. I suggest Micarta, Thermorun, or medium-hard Kraton for handles. Buck's phenolic resin is good, too, but a little slick if wet or bloody.

I am not sure that I trust the alloy used in the grips sold by United et al Chinese makers. A set of just knucks made in the US runs over a hundred and fifty dollars. Brass is expensive.

A spiked/ toothy d guard seems popular with several theories of modern combatives. The d guard seems to avoid laws against knucks in some states.

It is legal to carry and possess knucks here in SC. Properly sized ones used correctly should not break the user's hand.

As Caje surmised they do make fine gifts for growing boys.

I wanted one after seeing the old training film "Kill or be killed ". Despite the Fairbairn Sukes, M3, Kabar etc the old 1918 knives were sought after in WW2 and Korea.

Just stumbled across this one:

ARGONNE ASSAULT LB from Busse Knives

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I'm with the banned ...

For a cheap trench knife locate a early version of the ak-47 bayonet. These are the ones that have a pointy end on the blade and are usually heavily plated with chrome. Actually the hard part is getting through the plating to the steel underneath. Get one of those cheap 6-8" double sided sharpening stones. Use the coarse side with plenty lubrication on both sides. Then put your edge on using the finer grit on the other side. I believe the early ak knives are polish or bulgarian. Mine came to me fairly cheap as there were no rivits holding the handles on and the catch was missing. I used JB weld to hold the scales or handles in place while I used 12x24 screws and nuts. Smeared some JB weld in and around the nuts to help keep them tight. After the jb weld dried out then a small file to trim down any JB weld that had escaped between the handles and the frame. Came out pretty good and that russian steel is nice and sharp. The bayo only coast me $15 in its condition so I figured what did I have to loose. Frank