1911 Beavertail Grip Safety

Cyrano

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Does anyone know of a 'drop in' beavertail grip safety for the 45? I don't want to have to carve up the frame of the 45 to fit the beavertail; don't want to bleed all over my gun if I don't have one, either.
 
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Brownell's

HI Cyrano,
Brownell's has one listed. I think it is a Wilson.
Just check B.T. grip safetys.
Good luck.
Mike
 
Cyrano, if you are getting bitten and don't want to radius your frame for a "proper" beavertail grip safety, back in the '70s we used to install a Commander hammer and dish out the standard Government model grip safety to clear the hammer. This makes for a pretty bite-proof set-up and there is no modification to the frame - just the grip safety, which is easily replaced.

The new beavertail grip safeties are so good I think they are worth modfying the frame. I particularly like the one Les Baer markets.
 
Cyrano, I suppose you are using an older Colt, (or clone) 1911. If so, you will at least have to replace the hammer, or dehorn it, in order to use a drop in, or, as they are being called now, a semi-drop in....A Colt Commander hammer works for the Wilson Combat. You can buy direct from W- C, or the two main suppliers,Brownell's and Midway USA. The part number: #429BG, (blued GI).You will be lucky if you have a true drop-in as far as the proper fit to the ignition system, but fitting to the tangs will be fairly close, perhaps as close as the original. I recently had discussions with a friend who says the W-C drop in for Commanders is a better fit to the frame than the GI. I can not testify to that,but, the later years of 1911 production did see some rear frame changes to slightly shorter rear tangs. The number for the Commander style is #429C. Hope you luck. Regards
 
Long long ago (back in early 80s) they were made and marketed by the Col factory Custom Shop. That is where I go mine for my Pre-Series 70 colts.
 
The "extended grip safety is not really a "Beavertail" grip safety. The only to install a "Beavertail" grip safety is to modify the standard frame. Wilson or Brown both sell a guide to aid in the modification. I have done 3 of them so far and all work great. Work slow and read up on the fitting before attempting. Any gunsmith with any competency should be able to fit one.
 
Most 1911s come from the factory with a beavertail fitted now days. It's crazy not to have one. For one thing it allows for a higher grip and more accurate shooting/recoil control.
 
My 1911 has a REALLY low SN so I don't want to grind away on it. It also has a very good trigger pull so I'm a little leeery about changing hammers. Guess I'll just have to bleed on it, or wear a bandaid in the web between my thumb and forefinger.
 
I don't blame you. Sounds like a band-aid or something along those lines is going to be the best approach. I had to resort to that for a while with my Browning High-Power and P210 - both ordinary guns, but biters! The Browning got a Cylinder & Slide hammer. Fixing the P210 was a little more trouble. If you only shoot the gun occasionally, hopefully the band-aid will work for you.
 
Sure you can find drop-in parts, but they still need a little bit filing (on the part, not the frame). It's not like plug & play even though they advertise it as such.
 
The Wilson "Drop-in" Beavertail grip safety is really drop-in, no modification to the frame is necessary, however, there is a small gap between the frame and safety. If you can live with the gap, the Wilson safety works fine. You will need a shorter hammer than the standard spur hammer; either a "Commander" style or a bobbed hammer.
 
Sometimes I don't realize how lucky I am. I have med-large hands and no GI 1911 has EVER bit me so I don't have to have an ugly beavertail grip safety.
 
I've never been able to figure out how or why people get 'bitten' by hammers on semiautos.

I have a Walther PPK/S, made overseas, a Belgian made Browning High Power from the 1970's, spur hammer, and a Colt 1911, full size, with the spur hammer, from the mid 1980's. I've fired several WWII vintage 45ACP's; I remember on one, the owner warned me that 'the hammer bites'.

I've never been 'bitten' by any of them, nor by any other semiautomatic pistol with an external hammer. Ever.

I have read about it plenty of times, so I know it's real; I just can't figure out HOW it happens.
 
I've gone the drop-in route myself and wasn't satisfied. They look terrible and aren't particularly comfortable, as well as keeping a high bore center.

A simple jig, some files and sand paper can get it done.
IMG_3424.jpg

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I've never been able to figure out how or why people get 'bitten' by hammers on semiautos.

I have a Walther PPK/S, made overseas, a Belgian made Browning High Power from the 1970's, spur hammer, and a Colt 1911, full size, with the spur hammer, from the mid 1980's. I've fired several WWII vintage 45ACP's; I remember on one, the owner warned me that 'the hammer bites'.

I've never been 'bitten' by any of them, nor by any other semiautomatic pistol with an external hammer. Ever.

I have read about it plenty of times, so I know it's real; I just can't figure out HOW it happens.
You have to have big, fleshy hands and prefer to hold a high grip.

Even if not getting "bit" the hand can get abraded during an extended firing session. Firing 20-50 rounds at a time typically isn't a problem.
 
You have to have big, fleshy hands and prefer to hold a high grip.

Even if not getting "bit" the hand can get abraded during an extended firing session. Firing 20-50 rounds at a time typically isn't a problem.

I have big hands, and when I was in competition they were pretty fat at the beginning of the season. As it progressed, my right got thinner and more muscular: after shooting the 45 for a few months I had to be careful how I shook hands with people as sometimes I could feel their bones go crunch.

Most competitors like a very high hold, it minimizes muzzle flip and gives you more time to recover from the shot in timed and rapid fire.

I found that only one application of blood to the rear frame of my 45 removed blueing quite quickly. My old C 33 has had that strip of metal reblued since I parted with it.
 
A high grip is the cause of:
1) Biting
2) Failure to depress an old grip safety and the need for a bump.
You can tie down the grip safety or pin it.
I have no luck whatsoever with "any" drop in part.
Blessings
 

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I am not a big fan of the beaver tail grip. When I carry a 45 with a beavertail in a inside the waste holster it pokes me in my fat over hanging the belt. By the way that fat is paid for and I ain't willing to lose it, I spend good money to accumulate it. Has anyone noticed that when you talk about beaver and tail your mind wanders to over things?
 
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