rchall
Well-known member
I would like to clean a Winchester Model 61 .22 pump. What is the correct sequence of takedown and reassembly of this rifle?? Thanks!
Winchester 61 disassembly and reassembly
- Thread starter rchall
- Start date
Completely disassemble it?,,to every last pin, screw and spring?,,
or just field strip it and remove the bolt assembly for normal cleaning?
I wouldn't recommend the former unless it needs repair or it's being refinished/restored.
The trigger group can be a bit frustrating especially on reassembly. Lots of pins and springs in any of that era Win 22 pump and auto.
To field strip,,makes sure it's unloaded,,then unscrew the TD knob and separate the upper from the lower halves.
Set the lower aside.
Take the upper half and flip it over in your lap and run the slide rearward all the way. The bolt will be at the back end of the open recv'r.
Lift the bolt upwards and out of the recv'r by lining up the lug on the right side of the bolt (looking at it upside down) with the slanted surface in the slide bar. It has to move forward in that groove in the bar a bit to come up and out of the frame.
That's as far as need to clean things up. Normal maint, ect.
If you want to take them apart farther, just be aware you will have a bucket full of parts
Removing the multiple small pins and springs in the bolt assembly to get at the firing pin and extractors can be done.
But they are small diameter and easy to peen into place. Use a good punch & as large dia as possible to avoid that.
The right extractor comes out by by pushing rearward it's plunger & spring and rotating the extractor down & out to the front. The spring and plunger hides behind it and can take a ride if you're not watching for it.
The small round carrier latch is on the lower right side. Again pinned into place and spring loaded. Same deal, use a proper size punch and watch for the flying parts show. When replacing it, the cam surface must face the right way on the inside so the carrier can engage.
You have to remove the mag tube pin and pull the tube free to get the slide handle and bar off. After removing the tube pin & tube, remove the slide handle screws (2) from the wood and pull the wood free of the forend metal. Then the slide bar will unhook from the slide insert and you can rotate the bar carefully out of the frame.
The mag rings ARE NOT dovetailed cross-wise into the bbl. They are a rotary dovetail attachment. Put a steel or brass rod that fits closely into the rings and rotate them out . A 90 degree turn does it. Mark them on the bottom of the base for the front facing position and reinstall them that way.
Taking the trigger group apart,,you take the butt stock off first (thru bolt). Otherwise you can't get the slide release out when you get to that part and you can't capture the mainspring for removal .
It gets a little complicated after that, but I can try and help if you need it.
I'd stick with the Field TD and bolt removal unless there is something mechanicaly wrong with the rifle.
or just field strip it and remove the bolt assembly for normal cleaning?
I wouldn't recommend the former unless it needs repair or it's being refinished/restored.
The trigger group can be a bit frustrating especially on reassembly. Lots of pins and springs in any of that era Win 22 pump and auto.
To field strip,,makes sure it's unloaded,,then unscrew the TD knob and separate the upper from the lower halves.
Set the lower aside.
Take the upper half and flip it over in your lap and run the slide rearward all the way. The bolt will be at the back end of the open recv'r.
Lift the bolt upwards and out of the recv'r by lining up the lug on the right side of the bolt (looking at it upside down) with the slanted surface in the slide bar. It has to move forward in that groove in the bar a bit to come up and out of the frame.
That's as far as need to clean things up. Normal maint, ect.
If you want to take them apart farther, just be aware you will have a bucket full of parts
Removing the multiple small pins and springs in the bolt assembly to get at the firing pin and extractors can be done.
But they are small diameter and easy to peen into place. Use a good punch & as large dia as possible to avoid that.
The right extractor comes out by by pushing rearward it's plunger & spring and rotating the extractor down & out to the front. The spring and plunger hides behind it and can take a ride if you're not watching for it.
The small round carrier latch is on the lower right side. Again pinned into place and spring loaded. Same deal, use a proper size punch and watch for the flying parts show. When replacing it, the cam surface must face the right way on the inside so the carrier can engage.
You have to remove the mag tube pin and pull the tube free to get the slide handle and bar off. After removing the tube pin & tube, remove the slide handle screws (2) from the wood and pull the wood free of the forend metal. Then the slide bar will unhook from the slide insert and you can rotate the bar carefully out of the frame.
The mag rings ARE NOT dovetailed cross-wise into the bbl. They are a rotary dovetail attachment. Put a steel or brass rod that fits closely into the rings and rotate them out . A 90 degree turn does it. Mark them on the bottom of the base for the front facing position and reinstall them that way.
Taking the trigger group apart,,you take the butt stock off first (thru bolt). Otherwise you can't get the slide release out when you get to that part and you can't capture the mainspring for removal .
It gets a little complicated after that, but I can try and help if you need it.
I'd stick with the Field TD and bolt removal unless there is something mechanicaly wrong with the rifle.
rchall
Well-known member
Thanks 2152hq! I won't be tearing it completely down, just dividing it in half and cleaning and lubing lightly. Not brave enough to really get into the guts and all that, but thanks for the detailed instructions ifm I ever need to go that far!
Smitty357
Well-known member
Its a little tricky to put the bolt back in sometimes. But after u ge use to it, its a breeze.
I find mine needs to be cleaned a lot when shooting with the dirty ammo (GB or Thunderbolts). Other then those, it doesnt need cleaning near as often. But it surely the funnest .22lr to have at the range. All the guys like to feel like they are kids at the old shooting gallery.
I find mine needs to be cleaned a lot when shooting with the dirty ammo (GB or Thunderbolts). Other then those, it doesnt need cleaning near as often. But it surely the funnest .22lr to have at the range. All the guys like to feel like they are kids at the old shooting gallery.
Carlos miguel
New member
I have a 22 winchester pump action model 61
I have trouble with the bolt engagement system, it just disengage even with the bullet is in the chamber, what can I do ?? I can't get a blue print nor a break down manual, can any one help me. Other wise the rifle is impeccable. Thank you very much.
I have trouble with the bolt engagement system, it just disengage even with the bullet is in the chamber, what can I do ?? I can't get a blue print nor a break down manual, can any one help me. Other wise the rifle is impeccable. Thank you very much.
da gimp
Well-known member
There should be a blue print/schematic on the NRA/American Rifleman site for these. It seems like it wasn't too long ago that they were featured. Welcome to the S&W forum Carlos........... there are many fine experts here willing to help those who ask.
roarindan
US Veteran
"DIS assemble # 5???,,No DISASSEMBLE #5!!!
Carlos miguel
New member
I rely need help, my rifle is a Winchester cal. 22 pump action made in 1936.
It is a very antique rifle in excellent sate of conservation except because the bolt engagement system, it simply does not engage even the built is in the chamber. If any one can help me I would be very much in his debt. Again thank for your help.
It is a very antique rifle in excellent sate of conservation except because the bolt engagement system, it simply does not engage even the built is in the chamber. If any one can help me I would be very much in his debt. Again thank for your help.
straycat23
Member
Is there any trick to getting the cartridge cut-off assembly out once the slide assembly is removed? Thanks for your help
DWalt
Well-known member
If you really want to know everything about the Model 61, Ned Schwing's book "Winchester Slide-Action Rifles" goes into the disassembly procedures in minute detail, including excellent drawings, also all of the other Winchester .22 pump guns. An absolutely essential book for anyone interested in the topic which contains a staggering amount of historical information and data. See: [ame="https://www.amazon.com/Winchester-Slide-Action-Rifles-Classics/dp/0873497902"]Amazon.com: Winchester Slide Action Rifles (Winchester Classics) (9780873497909): Ned Schwing: Books[/ame]
PS: I bought my copy about 5 years ago at the Half-Price Bookstore for I think about $10.
PS: I bought my copy about 5 years ago at the Half-Price Bookstore for I think about $10.
Last edited:
reddogge
Well-known member
I'm glad I bought my copy years ago too since it's selling for $200-$250 now.
Almost all of the "gunsmith" books include the m61. Gun Digest
sells one and NRA has one in hard back. Shouldn't be hard to
come up with take down directions. NRA magazine had it in their
tech section back in 80s, you can maybe look that up on line.
One thing to remember on these older milled parts guns. The
parts go together with out force or prying. When parts are in
correct position they drop right in. 1st timers get flustered, but
after you see how it works, it's not hard.
sells one and NRA has one in hard back. Shouldn't be hard to
come up with take down directions. NRA magazine had it in their
tech section back in 80s, you can maybe look that up on line.
One thing to remember on these older milled parts guns. The
parts go together with out force or prying. When parts are in
correct position they drop right in. 1st timers get flustered, but
after you see how it works, it's not hard.
The only thing that holds the cartridge cut-off assembly in place in the frame is the magazine tube being in place.
Take-down the rifle and then remove the bolt from the frame.
Remove the inner magazine tube.
Remove or at least back the outer mag tube out by taking the one cross pin out of the rear mag ring. Then the outer magazine tube can be pulled to the front of the rifle. You only need to pull it forward an inch or so to give clearance for the cartridge cut-off to be removed.
**Pulling it completely out of the mag rings risks scratching the tube finish on any burrs inside the rings especially the rear one that was drilled & pinned during final assembly.
Then cartridge cut-off assembly can be pushed out of it's seat in the frame from the inside of the frame using a small punch. They usually push right out with hand pressure but sometimes need a little help w/a few light hammer taps. They are not a tight press-fit by any means.
There are no pins or interlocks that hold the cartridge-cut off itself in place.
FWIW,,The two parts of the assembly, the pivoting cut-off arm and the outside 'retainer' as they call it are caliber specific. The S,L,LR are one size,,the 22Mag are another.
The 22Short only rifles used the former.
cowart
US Veteran
Here is a very good PDF file (from 1958!) with drawings showing the way.
http://lunarhalo.com/WinchesterModel61/WinchesterModel61.pdf
straycat23
Member
This was the most helpful post. I was able to get my old Cartridge Cut Off out. Bought a new one from Jack First, who I think currently, is the only seller who has them. It was too thick when I received it. I whetted it down. Installed it, thanks to this post. My 61 works fine now. Took it to the range yesterday. I think this post needs to be a "sticky" for future reference.
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