To make a long story short, I shot some corrosively-primed Korean '06 through my M1 Garand.

The old-timers at my club swear that the old GI bore cleaner will clean corrosive residue from my rifle. I rummaged around my stores and located 6 cans of this:
Is this the stuff that will clean away corrosive ammo residue?

I've used Windex followed by rinse and regular cleaning/lubricating procedures in AK and SKS after using Yugo 7.62x39. No ill effects. Joe

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Wisdom chases me; I'm faster

Sorry, here's a picture of the GI cleaner I used.

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Been shooting corrosive for a decade. Have property 20k rounds of corrosive ammo.
There is no special way to clean. Just clean it as normal. All I ever use is CLP or Hopes. Never had a rust problem. Just make sure you clean a little more throughly that's all

to answer the Question; Yes that is the cleaner the Army issued to clean the bore when using corrosive ammo. Personally I'm down to 3 cans, 1 quart and two gallons. As armories shut down, or just cleaned house, they sent this old stuff to the artillery. They had so much they were giving it away. ChiCom SKS's and Ak's came with a small tin for cleaner, I have filled dozens of them for people. My best friend made a gallon of "Ed's Red" a 'Guns and Ammo', home brew to do the same thing- I have a bunch of that here somewhere too. Ivan

The best way to clean the residue from corrosive ammo is good old fashioned extremely hot water. Rinse. Scrub with a patch dipped in hot soapy water. Rinse again with extremely HOT water. After your final rinse, dry off any water that has not evaporated as a result of the hot barrel steel caused by the near boiling water. Then apply a coat of good gun oil.

The corrosive salts attract moisture. That is what causes rust. Wash out those salts, and you are good to go.

Make sure you clean the bolt, gas port and piston well after shooting corrosive ammo.

I shot corrosive ammo for 30 years before I knew any better. Always used Hoppes after each outing and cleaned thoroughly.

Since the internet, in recent years I have been using a 50/50 solution of ammonia and tap water, followed by Hoppes. I read somewhere that that was a close approximation of GI bore cleaner.

Can't say my barrels are any better or worse now.

Cleaning the gas system is a good recommendation too.

Windex in bore and on bolt at range. Hot water with Ivory dish soap at home, followed by a regular cleaning and coat of good oil.

Not much corrosive stuff left in my stash so haven't had to do in a while but as mentioned, hot soapy water followed by hot water rinse, dry and oil. If this is not practical or doable, then a good saturation with the old GI (white/watery) bore cleaner, dry and oil. Never a problem. Don't overlook the gas system, bolt face, muzzle, etc, etc.
Other stuff works too, whether as a neutralizer or just flushing the salts away.

That's all I use. I run wet patches with the USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER till they come out clean, then two dry patches to wipe it dry the a USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL to oil up the bore and chamber.

After I finish shooting my AK74 & corrosive 7n6 ammo, I apply a generous mixture (50/50) of warm water and Ballistol.

The warm water disolves the corrosive salts from the primer and the Ballistol leaves a protective film to prevent corrosion until I can get home.

I then clean as normal.

Glass cleaner and ammonia don't really do anything, it's the water that disolves the corrosive salts.

Several thousands of rounds and 0 issues.

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Molon Labe!

I've heard of all kinds of ways of cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo including submersing the entire rifle in a soap suds solution for 30 - 60 minutes (beater AK-47's) and I've also heard of using Windex (obviously followed by a product like CLP or Hoppe's). The main thing is to clean thoroughly every single part that may have been exposed to the powder in any way so, as previous posters have mentioned, do NOT forget the bolt, gas port, and piston in addition to the barrel. I have seen corrosion of the piston and gas tube in an AK 47 that shot corrosive ammo when those areas were not cleaned.

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Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

Yes the GI bore cleaner will do the job, but it won't do all the work. YOU still have to carefully strip the rifle, thoroughly clean everywhere the powder gases may have penetrated, oil and reassemble. Nearly any carefully prepared mixture will dissolve the fouling, but getting "in and after it" is your job.
Some fun, huh ?

Larry

Thanks for all the tips, guys! I took care of the barrel and the gas cylinder this morning with the GI bore cleaner. Now it looks like I'll be pulling the bolt & doin' some scrubbing.

I've still got a few 50cal ammo cans of the Korean 30-06 left. I've been shooting it in my M1 and an 1895Winchester.
If I remember right, the 'K' headstamped stuff is the corrosive primed,,the other isn't. Someone on the forum here let me know which was which.
But I clean the rifles the same anyway. Strip and with just water with a drop or two of dish soap,,, brush,then wet patch, dry patch and oil.
Wipe the parts down the same sequence.
Check the next day for anything you've missed. I wait to reassemble till then just in case!.
I found a can of about 500rds of Denver Arsenal '42 & '43 AP ammo recently. Not being on M1 clips,I've been shooting a little of it in a Springfield. Very accurate..Same cleaning procedure though!

No worrys as long as you are thorough in your cleaning process and don't let the rifle sit around. Get at it as soon as you get back from the range.
I often do a quick bore cleaning at the range just like I do w/my muzzleloaders. A small plastic bottle with soapy water and a cleaning rod & patches is easy to carry along. Finish up at home.

Doesn't matter if you use the GI cleaner, or plain soap & water or one of the many home brews listed that have proven themselves.

Not to hijack but IIRC, the "K" and "KA" were corrosive while the PS was NC.

Thanks!,,I couldn't remember what the other headstamp was for the Korean mfg 30-06.

Both are decent brass for reloading BTW...