WWII Commando Knife

Too late I have a 7 in model 1 on order, with a leather stacked Commando handle. Have you had any issues with the leather handles?

Very nice knife you have. How do you like the saw teeth?

The leather washer handle is a cheap and dirty wartime solution.
It was never intended to be long term answer.
Micarta is the toughest hardest handle material generally available.
It comes in several colors, can be layered, shaped, polished, rough finished.
Push come to shove, you can use it as a hammer.
I like everything about my No.1 except I did not tell the folks down in Orlando that I'm lefthanded.
They ground the finger grips for a righthander!
 
I've heard and read a number of Vietnam vets saying their most prized knife, and the one most sought after, was the Buck 110. Many vets also sang the praises of the generically-named "Ka-Bar" (made by other companies as well) USMC "fighting knife"; but they spoke of it as a tool for cutting, prying, digging, etc.

I used to own a WWII-vintage Fairbairn-Sykes dagger--think I left it behind in a divorce, really can't recall. It looked graceful and cool, balanced beautifully, and would have been a beaut for stabbing folks. Other than that it seemed to be pretty useless.

Since it's been weeks since I had to silently neutralize a sentry, I'd prefer a much more versatile blade. And not the "American tanto" design, which also seems to me to be a good sticker but not nearly as efficient a cutter as a good drop point or clip point.

I'm not a fighter, nor do I anticipate needing a knife as a weapon, so the only fixed-blade models I have are drop points. Cutting tools.

But of course that's just an opinionated old geezer's view, and your mileage, etc.
 
I like everything about my No.1 except I did not tell the folks down in Orlando that I'm lefthanded.
They ground the finger grips for a righthander!

Well, you made me get up and go handle my finger groove Randall. I'm a lefty, and I was not the original purchaser of this particular knife. I don' t see or feel a difference. I also don't see left or right handed listed as a changeable feature. I guess you could put it in additional comments, but why would you want to? I'm left handed, and carry my gun on the left side of the belt and my knife on the right side.
 
Here's a question: While looking through the above photos, I noticed the British BC-41 has the blade facing the opposite direction from all other knives pictured, and looks backwards (in relation to holding position) from virtually all other knives. Was this something they tried just to be different, or was there some advantage in a fighting situation? Just curious.
 
Another one I like is the Bark River Smoke Jumper.
This is a stock photo, my Jumper is very similar.
I have tan G-10 handle.
Don't see the steel named, Buts it's marked first production run.
Bark River typically uses 1095 for first runs.
 

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Since WWII has there been a better designed "Fighting " knife then the British Fairbairm-Sykes Commando Knife/Dagger ?

Yes, pretty much all of them ;) .

A lot of good knives have already been mentioned and pictured. IMHO besides being "legendary" the Fairbairn-Sykes really doesn't have much going for it and is a pretty poor design as a fighting knife. The handle is too thin for a good grip and not ergonomical at all, the flat guard mashes painfully against your thumb and finger if you stab into anything (and presumably anybody, I never tried) with any strength, and the blade is not very sturdy. And I did have an original Wilkinson, not one of the many cheap copies floating around.

Fairbairn himself realized the serious limitations, the result being ultimately the Applegate-Fairbairn knife still made today, which addresses all those issues. However, it's still a single-purpose knife with a very narrow application; for a combat knife that's much more versatile while still a fighting knife, most of the previously suggested knives are preferable.
 
Okay...the following is just my opinion, so p-l-l-l-e-a-s-e just take it as that.

As Absalom, shouldazagged, and others have expressed, the Fairbairn-Sykes knife is strictly a specialty item. The blade was designed for the express purpose of easily penetrating a rib cage during a surprise attack, with the blade being long enough to go through three inches of clothing and still do what it was intended to do.

During the Vietnam era, Gerber came out with their Mk II fighting knife. Pretty much the same design.
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Again...a specialty item. Oh sure, it will definitely slash if need be, but it was designed to thrust.

The Ka-bar has been mentioned. The nice thing about the Ka-bar is that it is not only a better all-around utility knife, but could be purchased at the PX at a relatively affordable price. And, if you took a little extra time in sharpening the top portion of the blade tip, it would also serve as a stabbing weapon.
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Of course, the Randall Model 1 All-Purpose Fighting knife was a favorite for those who (or whose parents) could afford one.

But, a lot of folks don't realize that the Model 14 Attack knife became more popular than the Model 1 during the late 60's with a lot of the guys in the field because it was a tougher knife. The Model 1 has a narrow tang where the Model 14 has a wider tang.

Oh...just for the record, the leather handles hold up okay, even in wet weather, if you take care of them. Don't get me wrong...you can't use 'em as a dive knife, but a good coating of beeswax or shoe polish seems to help them "weather the storm," so to speak. Sorry...that was a lousy pun.

Anyway, again, this is just my opinion.
 
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Well, you made me get up and go handle my finger groove Randall. I'm a lefty, and I was not the original purchaser of this particular knife. I don' t see or feel a difference. I also don't see left or right handed listed as a changeable feature. I guess you could put it in additional comments, but why would you want to? I'm left handed, and carry my gun on the left side of the belt and my knife on the right side.
When you grip the knife, Your fingers are supposed to roll into the grooves.
When I grip my knife, the palm of my left hand are over the grooves.
I custom ordered this knife from Orlando, I expect that if I had asked for Lefthand grooves I would have gotten them.
 
In SEA, I carried one of these.
I have the one I carried, but no pic on this iPad.
Looks like this one except it's in the older sheath.
Also carried a Buck 110 and SAW in pockets on my survival vest.
Had a orange handle switchblade with hook blade out in leg pocket.
Had a 3 blade stock knife in my parachute mini survival kit.
I think just about covers it.
 

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The Randall Model 14 was the most popular among several Army Special Forces men I asked about knives.

No one has mentioned the Fallkniven A-1 and S-1. Look them up on the Fallkniven site:

www.fallkniven.com

You can buy them on Amazon and other US sites. Amazon has some pretty good prices. Checked last night.

I gave my son an S-1 with black blade when he headed for Iraq. He thought it was too nice to risk there and bought a Ka-Bar USMC knife. Uses the S-1 now and an A-1 that he bought as hunting knives and for general utility on his land.

I once had lunch with Col. Rex Applegate and he told me that when he designed the Appegate-Fairbairn, he felt that a six -inch blade was enough. He based that on reports from the field when he was training OSS agents.

I never got used to the A-F sheath knife, but like all three sizes of the Gerber A-F folder. One is on my belt now, the big one. I think Boker makes the sheath knife.

Robert Terzuola used to make a very refined, improved version of the old M-3 Trench Knife, the M-30-A1 Gryphon. The Cutlery Shoppe arranged to have it made with an ATS-34 blade and a handle that Terzuola told me was very firmly attached. It handles very well and came with both bright and dull gray blades. I hope they still sell it. They also have a smaller Terzuola design, the M-10, I think. The blade resembles the Loveless semi-skinner. These were made to their specs in a very high quality shop in Seki City, Japan.

Many soldiers have relied on the Buck Model 119 or the longer Model 120. The latter is currently out of normal production, but some firms order them in special production runs. The Model 120 was the knife in the series of Scream movies. I've also seen it on some TV shows.

The biggest knife that I'd consider is the Fallkniven NL-2, the Odin model. Their fancier Northern Lights (NL) line have duralumin pommels, stainless guards and leather handles that much resemble Randall handles. All are named for Norse gods. The NL-2 has about an eight-inch blade. I use Kiwi brown or neutral shoe polish on the handle and did that on a Randall Model 3 that I once owned. It works well, but I'd sure get a Micarta, Zytel, or similar handle on a knife that might see service in a jungle or other humid area. Leather handles and holsters rot or mildew in such circumstances, although they hold up much better if dipped in a liquid designed to avoid mold and mildew. I think the USMC style Ka-Bars are so made.

Modern Ka-Bars don't show as good fitting as did the WWII originals, and the handles on the older ones are slimmer, and fit most hands better.

If I'd been in WWII, I'd have tried to get a Remington RH-36 hunting knife or the similar Marble's Ideal, with six-inch blade or buy an early Randall. The M-3 was also better than the Fairbairn-Sykes as both a combat knife and a utility model. The edge bevels are too thick on the Fairbairn, and a keen edge is hard to attain. The PAL RH-36 was made after Remington quit making knives in 1940, and was another good choice. The pommel is smaller than on the Remington version, but it's otherwise much the same knife.

The first Model Fairbairn (look it up) had a curved guard and solid ricasso on the blade to make it stronger near the guard. The Second and Third model don't have that, and some blades snapped. The tips will also break if the knife is thrown into a wooden wall. Don't ask how I learned this...

Click my link to the Fallkniven site. I think you'll be impressed. Work the buttons and see the various designs. Their F-1 is the issued knife to Swedish military pilots. Click on Exclusive Knives to see the NL line. PRICES ARE IN SWEDISH KRONER. They have US dealers who often sell for well under retail "list", but you won't get any really cheap. They are not inexpensive knives. But I think they're superb. Amazon.com has the A-1 for under $200 and the S-1 for about $168. They are excellent values, and well under "list" price.

I haven't tried the Bark River knives, but they look good. The Smoke Jumper pictured in this thread looks to be a remarkable knife.

If you don't like the dip in the blade spine on the Randall Model 1, have them make the knife on a Model 5 blade blank. The blades are otherwise about the same, so a Model 5 blade sharpened on top is functionally a Model 1. It 's a superb all-round field knife, where legal. Be aware of laws about knives with a sharp top bevel.

Search on the Net for all the knives mentioned. You'll be impressed, I think.

And order a copy of Col. Applegate's, Kill or Get Killed. It'll do a basic job of teaching the use of the knife in battle. If you find Fairbairn's little book, it shows the critical arteries and tells how soon a stabbed or cut artery will cause death or incapacitation.

I've studied the use of the combat knife since I was 12, and feel pretty confident that any of the knives recommended here will serve you well.
 
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http://i2.guns.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/005505/5505862.jpg

http://www.frinchillucci.com/open2b/var/catalog/images/5187/0-845b4a64-845.jpg

Lower link shows left side and shows the sheath better. Upper link shows right view.

Here's a photo of the Terzuola-designed Gryphon M-30A-1 knife that I mentioned above. I think it's as good as any and better than most. However, the Fallkniven models mentioned are better choppers if you need to split wood or cut small branches for kindling, etc.

The upper and lower edges of the handle are grooved to avoid slippage. If memory serves, the handles are DuPont Zytel and are checkered and very tough. Note the hole in the handle for a wrist thong. This is the version with a dull gray blade, but it looks better than Parkerizing, while maintaining a low profile. In Afghanistan, you don't want a flashy blade or guard alerting an enemy sniper or some jihadist with a rocket launcher.

In my opinion, this is what the Fairbairn and the M-3 should have been. Designer Robt. Terzuola uses the glyph of the Maya god of edged tools and weapons (Etz'Nab) as his logo. That's what the thing on the blade that looks like a dragon's head is.
 
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Here is a Randall i owned for a little while.
Museum grade Ivory handle.
It would do in a pinch.






Chuck

Looks like Gen. Westmoreland's Randall. I think it'd look better with the optional nickel silver guard/hilt and I ordered the aluminum butt cap on mine and had that drilled for a wrist thong. Handle was white Micarta, more durable than real ivory. But you had a nice knife there. Westmoreland's looked just like yours: no butt cap on the white handle. I've seen a couple of pics of him wearing it in Vietnam.

I wouldn't wear it in battle, as the white handle and reflective guard may attract enemy attention. But if the knife is legal for carry where you live, it's a great outdoorsman's item.

BTW, I saw a photo of Maj. Gen. Gavin in a battle zone in WWII and his Randall had the standard leather handle with aluminum pommel. I couldn't be sure whether he had the seven or eight-inch blade. Fighter ace Maj. Richard Bong, MH (40 credited kills from P-38's) had an eight inch blade on
his Model 1, I think. Can someone post that photo of him wearing the knife prominently, talking to another officer? Been awhile since I saw the pic, but I think the other guy is Maj. Tom McGuire, the runner-up ace, with 38 confirmed kills, also from P-38's, against Japan. Yes, he's the one for whom McGuire AFB, NJ is named. That's where I processed out of the USAF. Probably the best thing about NJ, heh!

Both Bong and Gavin wore the knives on their belts, as did Gavin his .45. Bong wore a shoulder holster. BTW, Gen. Gavin also carried an M-1 Garand rifle. He meant to be able to participate in the battle if needed, and didn't want the puny .30 carbine. Also, a full size rifle might make an enemy sniper mistake him for an enlisted man and hold fire, hoping for a higher value target, I suspect.
 
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I think this is the one you were talking about. Majors Bong and McGuire.
And thats a Mdl 14 in my avatar.
 

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Too late I have a 7 in model 1 on order, with a leather stacked Commando handle. Have you had any issues with the leather handles?

Very nice knife you have. How do you like the saw teeth?

I left my Model 23 in elk camp one year and a porcupine ate the handle. I re-handled it in buffalo horn to match my OM Ruger 45, I carried as back-up.

 
When Marine Raider Gordon Warner showed me his prototype K-Bar, it had replacement handles.
The leather washers had rotted off.
And the blade had been polished and blued.
So I say, Dr. Warner, I never one like this! He said , originally it had a leather washer handle and parkerized blade, just like all the rest.
I say, tell me about the brass hilt.
Gordon says, that's original. This is a prototype sent out to the Marine Raider School for us to test.
It's the only brass hilt K-Bar I ever saw and I have seen a bunch of them!
 
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I have a question.

I own a Cold Steel R1 Military Classic.

CS14R1Ja.jpg


Looks to me to be a copy of a Randall #1. Probably why the model number is R1.

RANDALL1-7SSNSGM.jpg


It has a micarta handle, and it's as slick as greased owl snot.

Any suggestions as to how to make it easier to hold on to? I've been considering skateboard tape. :p
 

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