Hunting Antelope with a .308 M1A

686-380

686-380

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I've never been too big on hunting, too lazy I guess. My father-in-law would like to try antelope.

He got the short end of the stick after he retired. They moved out here (Utah) so they could hunt/fish/ride ATVs...Well, his mom broke her hip and it was a 15 year decline nightmare. My in-laws took as good care for her as they could. She finally passed. It took another 5 years to get her estate sorted out. Now, he's ready to get back on track.

Since he's starting to get up there in years, I figure I better see that he gets to do some of the things he always wanted to.

Would any of you venerable S&W forum members recommend a good ammunition for the rifle I have? We'll likey be be hunting in Northeastern Utah or western Wyoming.
 
Does that M1a have iron sights?
Maybe he don’t, but I need a rifle with a scope!
I expect he does too.
Any brand name big game ammo in 150 grain should do fine.
It needs to feed-function in the M1a.
 
I used a .308 on my one and only Pronghorn hunt. I used a Remington Model 700 BDL Varmintmaster with a hand-load 150 Gr Nosler Ballistic Tip over IMR-4064. I was practiced with the rifle and load at 200 yards, and was comfortable out to 300 yards. The shot ended up a simple 100 yard broadside shoulder shot, and Andy never knew what hit him.
 

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Thanks for the info!

I have (and prefer) iron sights and an after market picatinny rail. Since I doubt I'll be able to get close enough for the iron, my scope is a Vortex Strike Eagle. I need to make certain it's sighted in. It's been a couple of years since I tried.
 
Congrats on the tag for the "Speed Goat" !!

Any load in 308 will drop this small game animal.......
just don't hit a shoulder or Ham, where all the meat is and loose
a 1/4 of the animals meat.

Gut and remove the hide as quick as possible to remove heat from the meat.
Place the quarters in game bags to keep dirt and dust off of it
and get it back to camp where you can finish cleaning it up and
cooling the meat in the shade to form a hard outside "New hide".

Do not let it get wet when placed into a ice chest.......
Good luck.
 
My M1A performed great with Sierra 168 gr. BTHP bullets over an appropriate charge of IMR4895 or IRM4064. I chose the Sierra 165 gr. Game King for hunting because is approximated the accuracy of the match bullet.

If you reload, no problem and if you don't there are enough factory loads with 165 grain bullets that will do the job. Federal, if I remember correctly, has a load that includes a 165 gr. Nosler ballistic tip bullet. These bullets provide very good accuracy.
 
686-380 said:
I've never been too big on hunting, too lazy I guess. My father-in-law would like to try antelope.

He got the short end of the stick after he retired. They moved out here (Utah) so they could hunt/fish/ride ATVs...Well, his mom broke her hip and it was a 15 year decline nightmare. My in-laws took as good care for her as they could. She finally passed. It took another 5 years to get her estate sorted out. Now, he's ready to get back on track.

Since he's starting to get up there in years, I figure I better see that he gets to do some of the things he always wanted to.

Would any of you venerable S&W forum members recommend a good ammunition for the rifle I have? We'll likey be be hunting in Northeastern Utah or western Wyoming.
Click to expand...

Coming by a tag here in Utah isn't the easiest thing to do and drawing in Wyoming can take a year or two depending on the unit. Here comes the "so" part. I'm not sure I at my age I would want to lug around or belly crawl through the sage and cactus with an M1A. The right tool for the job here might make for a more enjoyable and successful hunt.

Distance and wind can be another real issue with antelope. Shots at 300, 400, 500 or 600 yards aren't unusual. Antelope present a pretty small target. Trust me when you stick you head up and glass some antelope 1000 or more yards away they will often be staring at you and then be headed for the next county.

I think if I'm doing a hunt of a life time I might want a different rifle but that is just me. I would want a good sub MOA bolt gun with great optics in a flat shooting, wind bucking caliber. The .308 Win. isn't a bad choice but there are some better choice like the .25-06, .243, .240 Wby. and some of the hotter 6.5mm like 6.5-284 Norma, 6.5-06, 6.5-300 Wby. and the new 6.5 PRC or dare I say it even the 6.5mm Creedmoor.

I wish you all the success in the world. I love hunting Pronghorn. As was said up above get it skinned and on ice as quick as possible and you will have so great table fair.
 
You guys ROCK!!!

Bill Bates said:
Coming by a tag here in Utah isn't the easiest thing to do and drawing in Wyoming can take a year or two depending on the unit. Here comes the "so" part. I'm not sure I at my age I would want to lug around or belly crawl through the sage and cactus with an M1A. The right tool for the job here might make for a more enjoyable and successful hunt.

Distance and wind can be another real issue with antelope. Shots at 300, 400, 500 or 600 yards aren't unusual. Antelope present a pretty small target. Trust me when you stick you head up and glass some antelope 1000 or more yards away they will often be staring at you and then be headed for the next county.

I think if I'm doing a hunt of a life time I might want a different rifle but that is just me. I would want a good sub MOA bolt gun with great optics in a flat shooting, wind bucking caliber. The .308 Win. isn't a bad choice but there are some better choice like the .25-06, .243, .240 Wby. and some of the hotter 6.5mm like 6.5-284 Norma, 6.5-06, 6.5-300 Wby. and the new 6.5 PRC or dare I say it even the 6.5mm Creedmoor.

I wish you all the success in the world. I love hunting Pronghorn. As was said up above get it skinned and on ice as quick as possible and you will have so great table fair.
Click to expand...

We were just discussing the tags this evening. We'll try for both states, as long as it takes.

Basically, I'm in it for the experience and the chance to try the meat. I'm more excited for my father in law. He'll have a more suitable firearm.
That said, I'd better start looking at getting a sling for my M1A.

Thanks you guys!
 
Been hunting antelope in Wyoming for almost 50 years and have used, among others, an M1A and an M1 Garand. Both worked just fine. Also a .44 S&W on a couple of occasions but that’s another story. I had a scope on the M1A but have never shot a goat with it at more than 150 yds. so it wasn’t really necessary. Any decent 150 gr. bullet will be fine. I’ve used Sierra, Hornady, Nosler and others. Antelope aren’t big or hard to kill. The Sierra 168 gr. Match bullet is really spectacular as long as you shoot through the rib cage and don’t try a shot that requires penetration. I’ve taken about a dozen deer and antelope with that bullet and none one of them took a single step after being shot. They all just dropped straight down. Most of all, antelope hunting is fun. The weather is generally fairly nice and there is usually plenty of game to look over. So don’t be in a rush, enjoy your time in the field and you’ll have a great hunt!
 
Texas Star said:
How does pronghorn meat compare to true venison, from deer?
Click to expand...

Handle properly I think it is much better than venison, moose or elk. Not handled properly and your dog might turn up its nose.

Handling properly, means: shot quietly (not an antelope the has been run all over the country); skinned quickly and cooled quickly; avoid getting on fur on the meat; get it on ice as soon as possible. I try to have my antelope on ice within an hour or two after being shot.

We keep a 100 qt. Yeti type cooler filled with ice in a garbage bag.. The antelope goes into game bags and is placed onto the bag of ice.

Pan seared rare antelope backstrap in sage butter is one of my favorite meals.

164143225.6Vsvbcdf.antelopebackstrap.jpg
 
Venison also varies.
I’ve had corn crunching, apple munching venison up in Indiana
so good that I’ve been accused of buying it at a store.
Then I’ve had venison out West where the diet was sage and other herbals.
Some of that venison can be pretty strong!
Gamey gets mentioned a lot.
 
For over the counter new ammo you need to figure out which one is accurate. My 338wm will put two bullets in the same hole at 100yds using Winchester super x 225 gr psp. Some rifles can be accurate without reloading.

Venison chops broiled in butter. It all tastes great if it’s cooked right.
 
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My belly’s growling just thinking about some antelope. Always preferred it to mule deer for sure. Back in the early nineties you could buy extra antelope doe tags for twenty bucks in Montana.
 
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I have killed no shortage of game with an M1A (18" formerly called the "Bush Rifle" now called the "Scout/Squad).
White tail at 200 are less wary than antelope at 400. If they wind you, they are GONE. But the rifle can surely do it, and any load available for .308 that shoots to point of aim in your rifle will kill all the antelope you like.
 
About 30 years ago, when I shot service rifle competition on a regular basis I also used my match grade M1A for deer and antelope. I found that 165 gr Game Kings shot to the same point of aim and had virtually the same trajectory out to 500 yard or so as 168 gr SMKs. The weights and BCs are close enough for practical purposes.
.
That said, the M1A is heavy by hunting rifle standards - ok for a 23 year old Marine, but not something I'd want to carry at age 54.

I also like antelope meat *but*... and it's a big but...I shot them early in the morning before they'd be run. I normally scouted in advance and then would set up before dawn on a butte or ridge between bedding areas and water to catch them as they slowly moved from one to the other just after first light.

I suggest a similar approach, especially for an older gentleman, along with a lighter rifle. .308 is a great caliber, but there are plenty of others with equally moderate or less recoil that serve well in a lighter rifle. .280 Rem, 7mm Mauser, 7mm-08, .270 Win, 25-06, .257 Roberts, 6mm Rem and .243 Win all work great.
 
Game meat's enemy is;

Heat, guts with enzymes, hair that is tainted, sex gland contact,
blood shot meat, along with dust & dirt.

If out in the field, a rag can be used to wipe down the meat to ride it of contaminants and then bagged.
Some say never use water to clean a deer........
but I have washed out a deer with water and a rag to remove any
loose meat, bullet damage and hair that was still on the animal
before air drying and placing into a game bag to hang and age.

Since Nevada deer feed on Sage...........
I also will wiped down a animal with Vinegar added to a bucket of water, before the meat glazes over.......... but that's my thing.

Moose is bland and mild, Deer and Lope a very good if cared for
and my favorite is Elk meat if aged long enough.
Also, a skilled Butcher that knows how to trim and cut is helpful
in getting the very best from the meat you have taken.
 
THE PILGRIM said:
Venison also varies.
I’ve had corn crunching, apple munching venison up in Indiana
so good that I’ve been accused of buying it at a store.
Then I’ve had venison out West where the diet was sage and other herbals.
Some of that venison can be pretty strong!
Gamey gets mentioned a lot.
Click to expand...

If you want strong, try a Michigan cedar swamp deer.
 
When 1st out M1a use to come with a loading manual. I found it did well with just about any 150gr bullet. The loadings in book were accuracy loads and weren't max. I didn't fool with going hot that may have damaged the
gun. The one thing I gained from the experience was the 130gr Speer HP load. I had shot 150s for years in 308 for deer. I tried 130s in my M70fw
and have never went back to 150s.
 
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