I want to run this pass the 1911 45ACP experts here. I have a question on Disassembly
of my 2011 Ruger SR1911 Standard Full Size 45ACP Pistol.

"Why can't you just align and push out the Slide Stop Pin and remove the Slide off the Frame?
Bushings, Spring, Internal Recoil Spring Guide, are all self contained on the Slide. I can not
understand why this can't be done this way? I there something dangerous I don't understand?
The Spring is a 16 pound replacement".

This will be the second time I've Disassembled this Pistol and cleaned it. Just Oil and Shoot. There is
approximately 300 plus rounds through it. The SR1911 just keeps shooting trouble free.

I wanted to see how just trouble free it is, I'm bored now. I don't shoot SR1911 very much. I like this
Pistol that's why I bought, just like my Revolvers better. That's why such a long time between cleanings.

I am a S&W Revolver guy. This SR1911 is the only 1911 I have. I am very Mechanically Inclined, so
that's why I'm asking this question.

Now....I have been studying the SR1911 Owner's Manual.

Please give me insight as to why do it by the Manual. Thank you in advance for your help.

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I’ve never disassembled an SR1911 nor have I read the manual.

The one thing most guys resist doing is reading instructions. We tend to think we just ‘know’ how to do it or should be able to figure it out on our own.

When all else fails, read the instructions and follow them.

So, you should:

1. Read the instructions

2. Follow them.

A standard 1911 can be disassembled 2 ways., as per the usual manual instructions or by the manner you describe above. Choose your preferred method. I have no experience with full length guide rods in 1911's so I don't know if your S&W has that or how it would affect disassembly. All mine are Colts or S.A. standard Gov. models with the 2 piece guide rod.

I will add you may have a higher probably of a flying guide rod (recoil) spring & bushing removal issues (if it's tight) using the method you describe. I think it's probably easier to reassemble using the method in your manual.

For "ME" I like to remove the spring tension of the recoil spring first which makes further disassembly that much easier.

You do as you see fit....there is NO one and only one way to disassemble a 1911.

Randy

I'm cleaning a Gen2 R51 in 9mm today. It's marginally less frustrating than a CZ 52, but quite a bit safer. 1911s are a piece of cake by comparison.

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Release the Kraken

You think that's bad try disassembling / reassembling an old Astra 400 or 600.

The Norseman,

Why not do it the way the manual proposes?
You might end up liking it better, both in
disassembly and reassembly.


I've seen many 1911s pulled apart by removing
the entire slide assembly first and always thought
it awkward. But that's just me.

Now obviously with more modern designed autos,
i.e. the Beretta or SIG, taking the entire slide assembly
off intact is the correct way. But I've always disliked
putting the spring back in by pushing it forward to the
muzzle. I've found it problematic at times seating the
spring assembly. But that's just me.

Now, back to our revolvers!!!!!

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Ubi Est Mea

You have a very rare pistol, being a 2008 and all. Seein's how that model wasn't intro'ed until 2011........

"Circa" is a very big word.

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Ubi Est Mea

And using it makes a guy sound intelligent. Instead of correct......

Ooops, My SR1911 = Dec 2011. So Circa 2011. Just
re-found the Receipt, had to go look.

Got Date mixed up with my Super Rare Ruger Gold Label
Side x Side 12ga. English Stock Lever Action Shotgun.

Still, can the 2011 Ruger SR1911 be taken apart safely
the way I asked?

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"Circa" means "approximately". Your gun is precisely from 2011.

Disassembly by the method you describe is certainly possible, but it requires alignment of the slide and slide stop against the pressure of the recoil spring. Both disassembly and reassembly are much more more difficult doing it this way.

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Pisgah

Sounds like a challenge. I'll have to try that Disassembly and
Assembly of my Ruger SR1911 45ACP with the Slide and all
intact.

I will make sure to grasp the whole assembly as I move the
Slide off the Frame.

The method the OP describes is used with 1911s that have bull barrels and no bushings. Takedown is a pain compared to normal 1911s with a barrel bushing as the recoil spring is kept in compression. The normal takedown is much easier in regular 1911s as the Ruger is. And yes the SR1911 was brought out in 2011 the 100th anniversary year.

Well Norseman,

Seems like you're determined to NOT take
it down per the manual. So, go for it!

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Ubi Est Mea

You can do it by aligning the cut in the slide and pushing out the slide stop pin, but I find that to be royal pain with traditional 1911's. I prefer Government and Commander size 1911's to have the standard (short) recoil spring guide and standard plug. The best plugs are the old ones that had a small piece of the metal punched into the plug. You sort of screwed the open end of the recoil spring into the plug, so that the plug would not be launched into the mud, grass, swamp, whatever if you fumbled the field strip/reassembly.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I have an Astra 300 my Dad brought back from WWII and completely understand your comment.

Concerning the SR1911, I have 4 of them, 3 in 45 ACP and 1 in 9mm. All are basically designed and made to the original design of the 1911. As in short solid guide rod with a spring that is retained at the rear by the guide rod and the front with the plug.

They can be taken down by positioning, and holding the slide at the disassembly notch and pushing out the slide lock. You can also re-assemble by reversing this procedure. However on re-assembly you will be fighting with that recoil spring and guide rod all the way. Do it this way once or twice and you'll probably decide that removing the spring plug to remove the tension from the recoil spring is much easier.

To sum it up, the easiest way to take down a 1911 is to do it by the manual.

I figure the Army has a lot (100 years) exp with the 1911 and they teach, or did, to remove the bushing and spring prior to the takedown. It does make things a lot easier.

Update.

Well I got the 100th Anniversary 2011 Ruger SR1911 45ACP
Full Size Pistol all cleaned up.

I Disassembled taking the Slide off with all on it (Bushing,
Barrel, Spring Cap, Spring, Spring Guide).

Wow! That was easy, and quick way to seperate Slide
and Frame. Then just took the Slide apart.

I could see controlling the Spring and no catch Spring Guide
would be a problem.

I decided to put the Slide back on per the Owner's Manual;
not as one Unit. I believe It is just easier that way.

In closing; I learned Disassembly taking the whole Slide off or
doing it by the Book works. When putting it back together
though, I will do it by the Book.

Thanks for reading about my conundrum.
1. A filthy Prescott AZ Ruger 1911 amazingly
trouble free for 9 years.
2. Barrel and Slide filth.
3. Cleaned, Oiled, Greased; ready for Assembly.
4. Together again, Idiot free.

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It is just a "regular" 1911 yes it can be done taking the whole slide off but the more betterer way is they way it should be.
If you like fighting the spring and risk getting one to fly off in your eye, go for it

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Still Running Against the Wind

Rule3, you are correct! Somewhere on my basement floor are two bushings that just missed my face! First one taking it apart, 2nd putting it back together. After the 2nd, I ordered 2 bushings...still have the spare. One of those cheap bushing tools should be in the box with my 1911! Read the directions! Heed the warnings! I can keep a frozen food warehouse, etc., humming along. I can use tools. I know my limitations: guns and cars!

All this is a good reminder of why the 380EZ is named the way it is.

I'm getting disassembly of the R51 down to an art. The handle end of an old toothbrush makes a useful tool, especially if it has a relatively thick handle.

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Release the Kraken

Doughboys and G.I.'s didn't have a conundrum with their 1911's and 1911A1's! The were given simple instructions that their training sergeants expected them to follow!

You on the other hand, are convinced you know better!

By the way your Gold Label is not a "Double Barrel Lever Action Shotgun" I guess you never read the owners manual on that gun either!

Ivan

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Still Running Against the Wind

To correctly disassemble/reassemble a 1911 to avoid the "idiot" scratch:
1) Always take the tension off the recoil spring first before disassembling a 1911.
2) Always put the tension back on last when reassembling a 1911.
3) Any other order makes you an idiot.

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

I was taught in the 'bees to go plug, spring, bushing.

Never even knew there was another way til somebody showed it.

Supposedly, the slide stop first method reduces wear on tightly fitted bushings. Indeed, on my Dan Wessons I need to use the bushing wrench.

One thing I would say for sure. The slide stop last method of assembly would greatly increase the possibility of installing the dreaded idiot scratch unless the stop had that chamfer thingy...

Well I am at a loss as to why one would want to take it down for cleaning in the first place.
1. It's stainless
2. You are not shooting corrosive ammo
3. You have't dunked it in salt water
4. It still works

We ain't talking blue steel and walnut gripped Registered Magnums here

The floor is now open for discussion

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Forum consigliere

I've done that, held onto the key long enough to burn an impression of the key head into my palm. Thing is my older brother also stuck a key in a socket but he was weak and let go. Yeah my Mom did try to make sure I couldn't get a key after my brothers episode but I was an explorer and 2 year olds can vanish real quick when they want to.

I thought that you could take stainless pistols out in the yard and squirt em off with the hose.

But I can see where taking them apart first could get confusing.

Y'all are thinking about Glock's, which if they need cleaning, you just run them through a cycle in the dishwasher.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

...and they can be fixed with model airplane glue.

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

LOL!!!!!!!!!

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

While I field strip my 1911 with a bushing by removing the bushing and spring first, I've found that field stripping my 1911's that don't have a bushing to be easier and faster. All you need is a paper clip; you keep the spring in tension on the control rod and take it out in one piece after removing the slide. It's as fast as taking down a Glock. Ruger builds them both ways. The .45 Full size and Commanders are bushing pistols, but the Officers , and the full size 10mm (which I have) are bushingless.

I've field stripped my bushing version both ways (removing slide under spring tension, vs removing bushing and spring first), and the short control rod makes it much more difficult to reassemble by inserting the spring and replacing the slide under tension. Of course, you can disassemble it one way, and reassemble it the other.

I've always been enamored of mechanical/electrical stuff. When I was about 9-10 walking home from school (also did that in 2 feet of snow, around 1949) I spotted a thing in the grass with coils of copper wire, contacts, and other bits mounted on a black metal plate,. I picked it up and when I got home immediately retrieved my little bag of tools and set about trying to take it apart. Got a couple of wires loose and held them to a 6v lantern battery.

Nothing.

Noticed the wall socket.

Can you see this coming?

Stuck those 2 wires into the socket while holding the "thing"
in my other hand not really comprehending what was about to happen.

At once:
Wires went red.
Really loud buzzing.
Ice picks being stabbed into hand.
Lights started flickering.
Hand seemed to be burning.
"Thing" ejects from my hand simultaneously with lightning bolt shooting through my arm.
Flashbulb fired off behind my eye - don't know which one.

Not knowing any appropriate cuss words the best I could come up with was the loudest ouch I have ever uttered.

Mom runs into the room and I am unable to form the words to explain what happened...all of this transpired at the speed of light - I know because I literally saw the light.


I apologize for this non-S&W post but the key thing resurrected a memory that doesn't surface all that often and when it does I realize that I'm lucky not to have been killed...

I later came to realize that the "thing" was a voltage regulator that controlled the voltage output of the generator all cars had in those days.

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SmthWsn the rgnl pntnclk nrfac

An old electrician friend of mine back in the day showed me how to check 120 volt on open wire leads to an outlet, you just lick your middle & ring finger & flick them across the wires quickly, you'll know if that circuit is hot or not...NOTE this does NOT apply to 220 volt, that would not be advised.