AH Fox shotgun

Capt. F.

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A short time ago I ask for thoughts on a an AH Fox shotgun I was offered.
Based on the info I got, I “pulled the trigger or triggers” and bought it.
So here it is: 1923 AH Fox A Grade 12 gauge, straight stock with leather bound trunk case, paid $950.
Maybe not the deal of the century but I’m happy.
May just give it a workout this fall on grouse.
 

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Wow, that’s a beauty. What’s it choked at? Is it refinished?
My Son is a SxS addict, he would have been more than happy with that. 👍
 
Dog or no dog, it would be a pity to go through a season without taking that classy gun at least once.
Very nice
 
WOW! Beautiful old Fox!
Ida bought it in a heartbeat!
She deserves several field trips, but only if the weather's good - like NO Precipitation! Enjoy!

WYT-P
Skyhunter
 
The engraving is the second series of A's. Spreader loads can be very useful for tight chokes. $950 is a really good price. Is the barrel weight mark still visible. 1-4. It indicates the original weight the barrels were struck . How long are the barrels and how heavy?
 
The only problem is with old shotguns is that steel shot is the only thing you can us hunting where I live.... :(
And my shotgun is not anywhere as old as the great looking FOX!

Fortunately, in Maine at least so far, lead is banned for duck hunting and as weights for freshwater fishing. Still ok for upland birds and saltwater weights.
 
In my eyes, $950 is a bargain and I would not have hesitated to snag it at that price. I've had two Fox Sterlingworths and they were both great shotguns. I kept one with 30" barrels, auto ejectors and less wear to the finish and traded the other that also had 30" barrels but not the auto ejectors. If I remember correctly, both of mine were made in Utica, New York by Savage in the early 1930's. The Sterlingworth I kept, along with my Remington 332 O/U are fun to shoot clays with. I shoot clays at least once a year with them and just have a great time doing it during my club's annual Clay Day
 
I would recommend only shooting low brass shells in that ol' girl. The stock cheeks, at least the right one, appears as if it was worked over by someone with a heavy hand. The fitment near the trigger guard tang shows signs of missing wood. The dark staining at the head of the stock is most likely from oil soaking. I've worked on a few of these in this condition. The wood can be brittle. All needed repair from cracked wrists. Hence the recommendation to use light loads.

A very nice A grade Fox in the desirable straight grip configuration. Good luck on the grouse, they are my favorite game bird. I bagged a few back in the day up there in Maine when I was stationed at NAS Brunswick.
 
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I would recommend only shooting low brass shells in that ol' girl. The stock cheeks, at least the right one, appears as if it was worked over by someone with a heavy hand. The fitment near the trigger guard tang shows signs of missing wood. The dark staining at the head of the stock is most likely from oil soaking. I've worked on a few of these in this condition. The wood can be brittle. All needed repair from cracked wrists. Hence the recommendation to use light loads.

A very nice A grade Fox in the desirable straight grip configuration. Good luck on the grouse, they are my favorite game bird. I bagged a few back in the day up there in Maine when I was stationed at NAS Brunswick.
Thank you for the advice. I’ll follow it.
We’re about 25 minutes from the former BNAS.
 
The engraving is the second series of A's. Spreader loads can be very useful for tight chokes. $950 is a really good price. Is the barrel weight mark still visible. 1-4. It indicates the original weight the barrels were struck . How long are the barrels and how heavy?
I looked over the barrels and don’t see any numbers, just the serial number and the letter A, which I presume indicates the grade. Barrels are 28”.
 
The bbl wgt #'s were punched in prior to striking the tubes down to final weight. So a lot of times the number is very faint and in some cases gone by the time they finished their work.
The lighter weight numbers 3 & 4 are the most common to be missing all together.
These bbl wt #'s were stamped on the bottom of each tube just forward of the bbl flats.

Nice AHF,,1923 is settled well back in the Philadelphia era yet.
They didn't sell out to Savage till 1929/30.
Engraver Wm Gough was responsible for the design of the 2nd era engraving style patterns used on the AHF guns.
The earlier patterns were much more intricate for lack of a better word,,time consuming was the problem. Time = money.
So the 2nd generation patterns like this A were designed to be cut much faster. They also covered much more area on the lower grades than the 1st generation patterns.

The one grade that didn't change much if at all was the C grade. That stayed pretty much the same through the change over.

What was added was an X Grade with the new 2nd generation of patterns. The wild 'Oak Leaf' pattern.
It was placed inbetw the C and the D in the second generation engraving Grades. A,B,C,X,D,F

Add an E after the grade if the gun had Ejectors.
Each grade had it's own checkering style that went with it. But customers could cross-order checkering patterns and engraving patterns on the same gun. Money talks.

The OP's gun looks like an orig straight grip gun, not a conversion done aftermarket.
I'd guess the butt stock has been refinished and the checkering recut. Hard to really tell alot from the pics.
Case colors at that point were done by the Cyanide method, Bone Charcoal pack method was used earlier on. Then the switch to Cyanide colors after WW1.
The colors wear off just the same from use. But the hard surface remains. The colors are for looks, the hard surface is for wearability especially inside.

Fox used to have the Cyanide hardening done by a company not far away from them in NJ called Fred Heinzelmann & Co (sp).
That same co is still in biz AFAIK and was still doing cyanide case color hardening the last I knew. They had an FFL and would accept actions and parts for cyanide color hardening.
..Wonder where those as-new looking AH Fox shotgun finishes come from??

Looks like a very nice A Grade Fox. Straight Grip,
Check the top tang screw under the top lever,,it maybe could use and extra 1/2 turn to tighten it up. It looks like the head is just slightly above the surface of the tang and the under side of the top lever rubbing on it when closed.
..and it might just be the picture.

Congrats!, Just in time for the Fall..
 
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