Winchester Model 88 project gun

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sigp220.45

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I saw this old fella at my local place that usually only has black plastic stuff. They had it marked at $500 but I whined it down to $350 plus background.

Metal good, wood bad.

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They started making Model 88s in 1955, this one is from 1956.

It has a decent scope - Leupold M8 fixed 4 power, mounted low just how I like it. Its very clear.

Apparently I got the only one with a good trigger, if the internet is to be believed. Very little take up, very little after-travel. Probably 4 pounds. The trigger travels with the lever, so I can understand how it might be tough to engineer a decent trigger pull. This one is fine, though.

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The stock has had an adventurous life.

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The pre-64s had actual checkering. Still looks ok there.

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It still has the Winchester standard issue recoil multiplier.

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Oh yeah, its a .308 which is fine with me.

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Here's the show-stopper.

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The previous owner either had a very hot face, or it was leaned against a radiator or muffler until somebody said: What's that smell?

So refinishing this stock will be a challenge. If it still looks like dooky I'll probably resort to a nice leather buttstock shell holder to hide it.

My Dad always wanted one of these, but with 7 kids and a small-town newspaper editor's salary he only bought himself the cheapest option of everything. He bought a Rossi revolver, a Mossberg bolt action shotgun, and instead of the sleek Winchester Model 88 he really wanted, he bought a Savage Model 170 pump (in .35 Remington, which is nice). By the time I could afford to get him one, he had given up hunting. He's dead now, but at least there is a Model 88 in the family.

If anyone has any tips on dealing with the burned area, lemme know. I'm going to keep this stock on it.
 
For several years an 88 was my main and only Deer Rifle.
And yes, it had a terrible trigger.
Over the years I discussed the trigger With several Gunsmiths.
None I talked to knew how or wanted to attempt a trigger job.
Replaced it with a Savage 110LH.
The trigger was so much better that it took me a while get used to it.
 
Probably a decent buy. I always wanted an 88, but not enough to pay the price. No ideas about the rejuvenation of the burned area of the stock, there are also lace-on leather cheekpieces that might cover it.
 
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The metal does look very good and the stock can be made to look really nice, but it'll take some time and a lot of elbow grease.
I've got one of these-also in .308- and they came to be known as "a lever action that was as accurate as a bolt action."
Be aware of the pin that's in the lever right behind the trigger. They tend to work themselves out.
Also you might want to at least get a slip on recoil pad of your choice. Because of the stock design they're rather "exciting" when you pull the trigger!
Good luck and keep us posted with updated info and pics!

Buckshot Bill
 
Except for that hotspot, that stock is salvageable.
If you can’t do anything with that hotspot, either do as you said or you’re right on track for an upgraded “camo” stock!
I think I’ve seen some large leather recoil pads that might take care of two birds at once and cover that.
Internet search for Orvis and Tourbon leather recoil pads
The Tourbon would more than cover that and it’s half as much @$40
 
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^
If you got that part of the stock looking good the rest is a breeze.
Pilkingtons pre-64 and some Farmingtons XO should make it right.

I have a 1st year 88 and 100. Each uses a Pachmayr lo swing mount and period correct scope - Realist brand on the 88 IIRC.

Major PITA to reassemble, each of them.
 
I bought my Pre-64 in 1967. .308. Paid $95 for it, a Weaver 4X scope, sling, and 16 rds that remained in the box of W-W Silvertips. The previous owner fired the 4 rds and was ready to sell.
I never researched when mine was made altho it's a pre-64. Serial number 134XXXA if anyone has data on that.
This one has one of the good triggers. It's not target grade but not too heavy and breaks clean. I have gotten sub 1"/100 yd groups with my handloads using 150 gr. I'd have to dig around some to find the load I used. Haven't shot this one in a number of years.
Took my first deer with this in 1968 and several since along with a number of coyote and other pests.
I only had 1 magazine with it until a few years ago a friend was selling out his small gun shop and came across a new mag he thought was for a Win 100. I gave him $5 for the mag. That's what's in the plastic bag near the sling. I priced around for mags and the ones I'd found were as much as I'd originally paid for the gun.
 

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I've never had an 88, but have had several model 100s, including a carbine model in . 284!! Should've kept that one. Your 88 is looking great and should be a game-getter. My wife's cousin has a pre 64 88 in . 284 in near-mint condition but he changes the subject when I bring up trading him out of it.
 
Cool find!
If it were mine I'd make it a project gun and refinish the stock. You could always leave it, but the to my mind the wood and metal deserve to remain together. No replacements as long as it's serviceable.

I'd love to find one in 358 Win, especially for $350 :D
 
There are several ways to lighten the wood grain of a stock, without more sanding.
Think of it like ladys going to a parlor to get "High lights" in their hair......
just don't do the pinlk or purple, please.

Nice find and the 308 will do it all. You did great.
Hope to see a picture of the finished stock on that rifle.
 
Use some Oxalic Acid (Wood Bleach) on the wood and you can likely remove the rest of the dark discoloration.

Comes in crystal form usually. Buy it at Home Depot/Lowes and such stores.
'Savogran' is a popular brand and is usually in the paint dept.
Comes in a small plastic container.

Do a search for 'Savogran Wood Bleach'
or just 'Wood Bleach'
and you should get several brands besides that.

Mix about 2 tbs to a quart jar of water.
Place the jar in the microwave for approx 30 to 40 seconds to warm it.

Then just brush the soln onto the discolored areas.
It will lighten up the wood around it as well so you may want to do the entire stock to get a nice clean even Walnut color to start your refinish work.

I use this stuff all the time on stocks being refinished. Especially on wood that has gone thru a process of removing oil from the wood. That leaves the stock with all sorts of stains and discolorations. The wood bleaching removes most everything and evens up the overall color of the wood.

I do the job in a wash basin. You can handle the wood while doing this. If you have any small cuts on your fingers it will sting a bit! but it won't eat your flesh away like Nitric or Sulphuric.

Keep sloshing on and working the soln all over the wood and when you are satisfied with the look,,rinse the wood off with cool running water.

Pat the wood dry with paper towels,,but let the wood then dry on it's own.
Don't be tempted to speed dry it with a propane flame or over the stove burner.
Let it set for a day or more to dry.
Hanging from a hook is good. I have dozens of hooks made from coat hangers all over the place to use as stock and parts hangers.

It'll look like a new piece of walnut stock wood at this point when fully dry.
Give it one more very light sanding with a block to protect edges.
Raise the grain if you like at this point.
Then procede to stain and then finish.
 
Check out Mark Novak (aka "Anvil") on Youtube. He's got lots of advice on refinishing stocks, and about everything else. He's an x-nuke bubble head, so expect a good ration of sarcasm along with his advice. -S2
 
Metal does look good. I f mine I would consider a walnut stock replacement from Boyd's or Stockeys if something actually fit. Too bad it had to get scorched.
 
Most factory stocks have a high spot around the butt stock right around that point.
The butt plates are fitted and sanded to the wood. But this fitting/ sanding is only done up onto the stock a couple inches if that.
So you often get a slight hump or high spot there.

Leveling it off makes the stock much better looking as it presents a straight line from the pistol grip to the butt plate instead of the uneven surface.

In this case if that uneven plane is there and the high spot is where the charred wood is still evident,,taking the stock lines down straight will remove the dark spot and improve the looks.

Here's a pic of a Savage stock from the top after stripping the finish off by scraping.
You can easily see the high spots just forward of the butt plate on both sides.
Some are worse than others but they exist on most to some extent.
Place a straight edge along the sides and they become very visible.
Usually plenty of wood on a factory stock to 'play' with.

Just another way to get rid of the discoloration mark in the wood before refinishing.

 
I had a Model 88 once.

I loved the looks, but damn that trigger!
 
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