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Ancient Iver Johnson hammerless .32

Aroth

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My MIL had this hammerless Iver Johnson sitting in some box for decades. When we moved 9 years ago it was found then forgotten again. I recently came across it again. It appears to have been made around the turn of the last century and operates 90% as it should. The trigger does not automatically reset. Otherwise seems ok. The nickel finish is rough around the edges but otherwise isn't bad. I know it isn't work hardly anything and .32sw is a nearly useless round but it would be nice to get it in working order.
 
I disagree! Your revolver needs one of two things. Either, internally cleaned. or a new spring kit from Wolff.

To try cleaning, Remove the grips and spray Electric contact cleaner in every orfice you can. Best if done outdoors and over an open trash can, and don't stop until it starts coming out clean. When cleaning is successfully done, oil the action lightly with a dash of motor oil or better yet 3-in-1 oil. Do not use WD-40!

Nobody ever volunteered to be shot with any 32! Is it 32 S&W Short (aka 32 S&W, the cylinder will be about 3/4" long.) or 32 S&W Long (the cylinder will be about 1 1/8" or so.)? Both are still available and fun to shoot or plink with (think $50 a box full retail), you can often find good deals on ammo that a few rounds are missing.

Between S&W, Iver Johnson, and H&R, I have around 20 of the top-break revolvers and 8 are hammerless. Even with poor bore condition, they are usually "Pop Can" accurate at 10 yards.

Have fun!

Ivan
 
I own many Iver Johnson (US Revolver Co. too) top break pistols and fixed many of them too.

From what you described, it sounds to me like the trigger return spring might be broken. If the trigger doesn't reset, but you can pull it forward to reset, then it is probably the trigger return spring. On the older models, these are flat springs and I have fixed many Iver Johnson/US Revolver Co. top breaks that had this problem. They usually are broken in half. Replacement ones are available, with some fitting needed.

The easiest way to tell if you have an older model is the older models have a screw to hold in the front of the trigger guard which can be seen when the barrel is broken open. The screw also goes through the trigger return spring and holds it in place. Later models used a pin to hold in the front of the trigger guard, like the one used for the rear portion of the trigger guard. And I think the trigger return spring was "U" shaped spring.

As Ivan said above, I am sure a good internal cleaning would do wonders too!
 
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My Mother carried a blued I.J. .32 short five shot in Her apron pocket for years. Mom was sure it would stop a charging elephant if needed to. In 1962 when I started LEO I gave Her a S&W Model 36 2" RB nickeled with pearl grips to replace the I.J. The Model 36 stayed in Her bedside drawer and the I.J. remained in Her apron pocket.
 
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I own many Iver Johnson (US Revolver Co. too) top break pistols and fixed many of them too.

From what you described, it sounds to me like the trigger return spring might be broken. If the trigger doesn't reset, but you can pull it forward to reset, then it is probably the trigger return spring. On the older models, these are flat springs and I have fixed many Iver Johnson/US Revolver Co. top breaks that had this problem. They usually are broken in half. Replacement ones are available, with some fitting needed.

The easiest way to tell if you have an older model is the older models have a screw to hold in the front of the trigger guard which can be seen when the barrel is broken open. The screw also goes through the trigger return spring and holds it in place. Later models used a pin to hold in the front of the trigger guard, like the one used for the rear portion of the trigger guard. And I think the trigger return spring was "U" shaped spring.

As Ivan said above, I am sure a good internal cleaning would do wonders too!

Based on what you say, it looks to be older. I pulled the grips and the screw that is above the rear of the trigger guard. Then the main spring fell out. Getting that sucker back in was a pain. I couldn't get that screw under the cylinder to budge but if I put the frame in a vise I could possibly break it loose. And the trigger spring would be visible when i drop the trigger guard? Yes I can manually reset the trigger.
 
I disagree! Your revolver needs one of two things. Either, internally cleaned. or a new spring kit from Wolff.

To try cleaning, Remove the grips and spray Electric contact cleaner in every orfice you can. Best if done outdoors and over an open trash can, and don't stop until it starts coming out clean. When cleaning is successfully done, oil the action lightly with a dash of motor oil or better yet 3-in-1 oil. Do not use WD-40!

Nobody ever volunteered to be shot with any 32! Is it 32 S&W Short (aka 32 S&W, the cylinder will be about 3/4" long.) or 32 S&W Long (the cylinder will be about 1 1/8" or so.)? Both are still available and fun to shoot or plink with (think $50 a box full retail), you can often find good deals on ammo that a few rounds are missing.

Between S&W, Iver Johnson, and H&R, I have around 20 of the top-break revolvers and 8 are hammerless. Even with poor bore condition, they are usually "Pop Can" accurate at 10 yards.

Have fun!

Ivan

Would you have a ball park figure about how much this would be worth?
 

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Like most gun guys I have seen and owned a few over the years. None ever stayed long before it went to a new owner. The one I did keep is in relic conditions. No grips, parts missing and rusty. The reason I kept it is, there are 7 notches cut with a file into the top barrel rib. These tally marks can often be found on hunting arms to commemorate number of deer, ducks, rabbits, etc. shot. Since my gun cannot be thought as a hunting gun, makes me wonder what was shot 7 times with the relic.
 
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Like most gun guys I have seen and owned a few over the years. Non ever stayed long before it went to a new owner. The one I did keep is in relic conditions. No grips, parts missing and rusty. The reason I kept it is, there are 7 notches cut with a file into the top barrel rib. These tally marks can often be found on hunting arms to commemorate number of deer, ducks, rabbits, etc. shot. Since my gun cannot be thought as a hunting gun, makes me wonder what was shot 7 times with the relic.

A Letter Carrier in Westerville, Ohio bought a 32 Long Top break from Aumiller's gun shop (Under the barber shop at State & Park streets) and sold it back when he retired 23 years later (circa 2010). It had 4 notches filed in the backstrap! Mr. Aumiller knew about 3 of the dogs but not the 4th! Apparently, coyotes were not the only predator in the old neighborhood!

Our office was on that mail route, but I got along with the mail man just fine. That gun was never placed for sale at the shop, so I don't know what happened to it. (Because, I would have been interested)

Ivan
 
Take the grips off and soak the entire gun in a container of Ed's Red or AT fluid for a week. The former does wonders for removing old grime and lubricating up the action. I've revived several old guns that didn't require any repairs afterwards this way.

John
 
Any opinions on what this one would be worth? It's for sale at a local auction. It would make a good project/plinker for me if I could get it cheap enough. I'm thinking $125 or so.
 

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Was at the Western Hardware store in Leadville, Co. which is a very historic building and business of the past which is now an antique emporium. An exhibitor there had been digging an old outhouse on chicken hill above town and came up with a rusted relic H&R top break that was still loaded with 3 rounds and 2 empties. Makes you wonder if it had just fallen out of somebody's pocket and not recovered or had it been used in a crime and tossed in the nearest outhouse to get rid of evidence.
 
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