Compared with my friend Laurie's 357 Magnum S&W 640 no dash double action trigger is between 2 and 3 time heavier and much less smooth. How can I reduce double action trigger's weight while maintaining reliable ignition. Single action ignition obviously will remain reliable. I use the SP101 almost exclusively double action.

20+ years ago a friend bought a brand new Super RedHawk and put a spring kit in it before firing it! It still had a sucky trigger with a Wolff spring kit in it.

We tore the Red Hawk down all the way to the naked frame and using Very Fine diamond sharping "stones" and jeweler's files and a few dental picks we cleaned up all the sharp edges, folded over burrs and left over millings inside the action. It only took about 45 minutes. We didn't touch any of the sear engagement surfaces, as those were in really good shape.

We did this over a large piece of news paper, when done we folder the paper and poured all the metal bits into a twist off cap, it was full. The action was as smooth as it could be made to! Nowhere as good as the 29 Classic I had, but much better than it was.

Do not expect to get a Rugar double action to be like a S&W. They work well and last a long time, but it is a different animal!

Ivan

Wolff Gun Springs sells a shooters Pak for the SP-101 with 9, 10, and 12 pound hammer springs as well as an 8 pound trigger return spring. It replaces the factory 14 pound hammer spring and 10 pound trigger return spring.

The three hammer springs let you go as light as you can and still have reliable primer strikes.

It will significantly lighten the trigger pull and it’s only $9.79 plus around $5 for shipping.

It will not make the trigger feel less mechanical however, that’s just a trait of the revolver, but it will produce a much nicer trigger pull over all.

When I first bought my SP-101 (.357 mag) I was appalled by how stiff the trigger and hammer were. When trying the first time to cock the hammer it was so stiff I thought it might be jammed somehow. I installed Wolff springs and that helped a lot. Based on my own experience though you're not going to get the same smooth trigger you'd get with a S&W.

I've been very fortunate in that the only two SP-101s I've handled had both been slicked up very nicely. Unfortunately, I have no idea how this was achieved or by whom.

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Release the Kraken

I bought an sp101 in 327 federal and thought the trigger was ok but my daughter couldn't pull the trigger more than a few times. I had to have an action job done just so she could shoot it. Done by the owner of a local gun shop. He did an excellent job, couldn't be more pleased.

My 101 38 special's trigger is ok for a double action belly gun but my 22 cal had to have a Wolff transplant to make it usable while remaining reliable.

I have two 101's. If you go to MCARBO, watch their slick up video and add their spring kits I believe you'll be more than a little pleased. I followed their directions step by step and now my two Rugers are every bit a slick as my 1968 S&W K-38 which has been fired many thousand times.

Ed

After a week's worth of dry fired snaps, the trigger action smoothed but was way too heavy. My index finger had become sensitive, but my arthritic swelled middle finger's middle joint was beaten up. My custom rosewood concealment grip - anybody who wants them, drop me a PM - were exchanged for OEM Ruger grip, the old, old original grip. Magically trigger action became just slightly too heavy. I'll now try a spring kit with every confidence I'll have a good, smooth double action revolver.

I installed Wolff 12lb hammer spring on my SP101 and made a easier pull , sold it before trying the others

If I can find out what 357 Magnum cartridge (manufacturer) uses the least sensitive primer, I'll use a couple of boxes for my baseline. Rather than the first spring to change, hammer spring will be my last. I'll adjust trigger return spring first. When I identify a series of trigger and hammer spring changes that achieve acceptable trigger action while having zero failures to fire because of primer receiving poor hit for 50 rounds, that's when I archive what I've done and stop futzing.

Those who know I should require many more cartridges fired to identify reliability, . . . I can't afford more.

I addition to the above I've found shimming the hammer helps a bit. There's quite a lot of side to side on the gun. Since the hammer is dropped in to the frame getting the shims to stay lined up with the pin and holes is a bit of a challenge.

If reliability with all ammo is essential, it is with me, checking with the hardest primer is the thing to do. The hardest/least sensitive factory small pistol primer I've encountered is the primer used in Winchester 9mm NATO ammo, but I don't know if Win. uses the same one in their .357 ammo. Within my humble experience, 50 rounds of testing will certainly let you know if there is an issue.

My older 9mm SP101 DA is smooth, but heavy with factory springs. I installed a 12# mainspring to lighten up the trigger. All was well until I tried the Winchester and IMI NATO ammo. The hard primers immediately created intermittent misfires; it didn't take 50 rounds. So I'm back to the heavy but reliable 14# factory mainspring...YMMV

BTW, my J-Frame and LCRx revolvers have lighter DAs than the SP101, and have never had a misfire. Just different lockwork geometry.

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NRA Life, COTEP 640

I will not answer your question in such a way as to make your gun less reliable. My best answer is to shoot 1,000 rounds of .357 Magnum 158 grain semi-jacketed hollow point. Then clean and lube. You will be a better shot and your revolver will be as smooth as possible without sacrificing reliability. There is no free lunch or quick trip to being a better shot or having a smoother action. I have always preferred to “wear-in” a revolver by honest use, not by files and other methods.

If you live near a Catholic church go into the foyer and get some Holy Water. Grab a gallon if you can; remove the stocks from your Ruger and slowly pour the water all over and into the frame. This should wash out all the particles Ivan mentioned in his post.

I had a SP101 .32 H&R magnum that responded well to a bath, a 10# Wolff spring and coating the contact points and bearing surfaces of the hammer and trigger with moly disulfide, the silver stuff hand loaders used to coat their bullets in. I sold that gun when I bought a S&W 331ti, but the buyer still has the Ruger after all these years.

I may be wrong...but welcome to the world of guns by lawyers. It's not uncommon for trigger weights to be high due to liability concerns as much as by design intent. Designers have to find a compromise between reliability as well as liability...balancing the two can be difficult.

Colt had lawyer issues in the design of their Model 2000 9mm pistol thirty years ago...lawyers insisted upon doubling the design pull weight which...among some other design changes and unforced errors...doomed the gun in the market.

Colt's Mark III and Mark V actions suffered the same...excellent designs hampered by a 16 lb. mainspring. Wolff's came to the rescue with 11 and 13 lb. springs which gave great trigger pulls with no decrease in reliability. Colt seems to have come to their senses with their new generation of revolvers which have great trigger pulls.

My experience with Ruger has been they generally have smooth trigger pulls but heavier than maybe necessary.

Never overlook the influence of liability concerns. That often drives many corporate decisions and causes compromises that aren't appreciated.