Marlin 60?

JayFramer

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Has anyone ever heard of or owned a Marlin 60 rifle? I bought one just recently online that looks like this (minus the medallion)

D936-E60-B-246-E-47-C7-A1-B3-8-FF9-E8811405.jpg


The gun I bought was made in 1994 with the stickers still on, like-new condition (we’ll see when it arrives). I did NOT want a new Marlin as besides all the quality control issues, they have an ugly QR code on them. So I made sure to find an earlier one but still in nice shape.

I’ve been on a tube loaded .22 semi-auto kick lately and figured I’d add this classic gun to my collection. I love a tube-fed because I don’t need to carry spare mags. Just the rifle, a pocket full of .22s, and a tin can or two makes for a pleasing afternoon. And, when those mags for the mag fed guns are empty, you have to load them up again anyway.

Anyone like or have any opinion, tips, thoughts etc. on the Marlin 60 .22 rifles?

-Jay
 
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Yes I've had a few over the years they're a decent mid price rifle and the only flaw they have is the ejector is a little weak and bends easily, it's a easy fix even when they do.
 
Yeah, they're great guns for their price range. I've had one in the past but traded it off. I still have a barreled action for one my brother gave me but I think missing too many parts to mess with. Not as much potential as a 10-22 but probably a better trigger out of the box. Plenty accurate for plinking or small game.
 
I have one. If I can ever get the grit out of the trigger I suspect it will be very accurate. They are a pig to clean because you cannot get a straight shot into the chamber. I know, I know, what is this cleaning a .22 of which I speak.
 
I have one, it is a Glenfield version made in the early '70s. They have been around a long time and proven to be good mid range rifles. Second up from the bottom. That is a Marlin magazine fed bolt action above it.
 

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In my opinion, they are a great plinker rifle that withstands some abuse and keep on ticking. I inherited my father-in-laws old Model 60 truck gun in 1990. The rifle experienced little use and no cleaning. It still works fine today.
 
I owned a 2003 mfg’d Model 60 that never ran reliably. Gave it to a buddy who was glad to have it. I know my experience is an oddity as most folks love them. I’ve owned two 10/22s that didn’t work reliably- I think I’m just cursed when it comes to semi-auto 22 rifles.
 
I've got an early 80s model with a cheap scope attached. I'm a big fan. I prefer it over the Ruger.
 
One of the most popular 22 rifles of all time, The barrel is super accurate. It's all good. It ways better than the 10/22 although the 10/22 has its claim to fame as well,


I have the stainless version


Only issue is replacing the internal plastic buffer. If you need to do that PM me or post a thread as I have a link great video
 
Just about everyone has owned a M 60. :) Fine rifle, I wouldn't limit them to "plinking," good squirrel rifles, too. I like the tube mag. The 10-22 is equally great, but I wouldn't rate them any higher than a Marlin.
 
I love mine shoots anything .22,mines a 1980you have to keep'em cleaned..
 
Every bit as popular and reliable as the 10/22 and Nylon 66.

Excellent varmit or target getter!
 
I bought mine in 1969 for $47. When I get too old and sell the arsenal, it will be one of the last to go.
 
They just keep going and going and going ! Almost boring in their reliability and accuracy.

Randy
 
They are fine rifles I had one back in the 90's. Great "tin can plinking" gun. I own a Ruger 10/22 now I just prefer the detachable magazine.
 
The Marlin 60 is the old Marlin 99.
Same rifle as the Glenfield 60.

The Marlin Model 99C was mfg'd for the longest time. From 1961 to '78.
This is the most commonly seen 'version'.
The original Model 99 (no letter suffix) was only made for a couple yrs... '59 to '61


The Marlin 99 and Glenfield 60 were made at the same time.
The Glenfield outsold the Marlin branded rifle.
When Marlin dropped the Glenfield line all together, they took the 'Model 60' from the Glenfield and tacked it onto the Marlin 99,,making the Marlin rifle the Marlin Model 60.

The 60's and early 70's Model 99 Marlin and 60 Glenfield was plagued with ejector problems.
The ejector was a cast-in-place projection on the sintered metal feed throat. . That ejector tip wore off very quickly on some batches of feed throats,,which were outside sourced by Marlin.
Many of the rifles couldn't make it through a Range trip w/o FTEject problems.
They used to come back in on warantee for repair by the pallet from BigBoxStores and FailtoEject was the usual reason.

In the early 70's a Repair Dept employee came up with the idea of using the un-used end of the torsion spring powering the cartridge lifter as the ejector. Instead of that end of the spring simply being bent and captured in the sideplate of the action under the recv'r, he made an extra long spring that wrapped around and came up and over the feed throat. Then sat in a groove filed in the old usually worn out ejector tip.
The blunt end of the spring wire was now the ejector point.
His hand made spring and fashioned ejector rifle ran around 50k rds through it w/o an ejection or feed problem in the range..

Marlin adopted the idea for the Model 99 some time later in the 70's and used it ever since then. It really saved that rifle.
The employee submitted the idea early on in one of those '$$ for ideas' plans that most factorys had then.
Clearly his idea, but got nothing for it. He was told that R&D had already thought of the idea and plans were in the works to make the mfg'ing change.


The bolt buffer in the back of the action breaks down quite often. Many just from age, they get brittle and crack. A few shots and they crumble and splinter to pieces.

If you pull the bbl'd action assembly out of the wood and there's little splinters and pieces of white or an off-yellow plastic down in the wood inlet near the back,,that stuff is the remnants of the bolt buffer.
Replacement s are generally available from places like Brownells. The Factory replacements were just that, no better than the one used to assemble the rifle and they'd last a few years and then break.

I used to make then from Delrin (sp?) and they lasted OK.
Kind of overkill I guess, but they held together.

To replace them you have to take the action off of the bottom of the alloy frame. That's easy enough.
Then you have to remove one side plate to be able to lift the buffer from the assembly.
The cross pins holding the side plates together are(were?) locked together with tiny C clips.
Most important thing is to place a bent paperclip thu the mainspring follower of the hammer spring and then trip the sear and let the hammer forward till the paperclip holds the mainspring secure against the mainspring strut.
(Kind of like taking a Ruger SAA mainspring out.)

Otherwise things fly away when you pull the side plate off...

If you remove the bolt from the recv'r, make sure you don't kink the long smal dia recoil spring when reassembling it.
Make use of the recoil spring guide rod to help slide the spring back in place.
Many do have a kink in them from hasty reassembly and still function OK. But it can play hell on extraction/ejection with some ammo especially StdVel.

The older ones didn't have a last shot bolt hold open,,I think the 'newer' ones do. Seems like one my brother had did. It was from the 80's some time. That's 'newer' in my book!
Those older mfg did have a manual bolt hold open.
Pull the bolt back and push the charging handle in and it holds the bolt open. Handy for cleaning, inspection and range etiquette.

I always think about the hundreds and more of these and Model80 series bolt 22's we destroyed because they didn't have ser#'s on them.
Sent in from those retail outlets on warantee exchanges. The customers had already gotten a new rifle in exchange. These were pre 68 mfg rifles with no ser#'s. It was now post 68.
The rifles at first were rebuilt/repaired and a new ser# stamped on them per ATF OK. Then it was decided it wasn't worth the effort. So those unser#'d rifles would be stripped for their parts, the parts refinished and the recv'rs destroyed. Then that was too much effort and time.
So the entire rifles were simply sawed into pieces and disposed of.

It's always a matter of $$. Sometimes a couple pennys one way or the other.
 
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I am now down to just one, but have owned as many as four at the same time. I like them better than the Ruger. They seem to find me, as I have seldom had to look for one.
 
I have one from around 2010 or so. Yes, one of the dreaded Remlins. It's okay, but a little bit finicky with ammo. It's put lots of lead downrange, though. Honestly the 15-22s are more reliable, but maybe not as accurate.
 
The Marlin 60 is the old Marlin 99.
Same rifle as the Glenfield 60.

The Marlin Model 99C was mfg'd for the longest time. From 1961 to '78.
This is the most commonly seen 'version'.
The original Model 99 (no letter suffix) was only made for a couple yrs... '59 to '61


The Marlin 99 and Glenfield 60 were made at the same time.
The Glenfield outsold the Marlin branded rifle.
When Marlin dropped the Glenfield line all together, they took the 'Model 60' from the Glenfield and tacked it onto the Marlin 99,,making the Marlin rifle the Marlin Model 60.

The 60's and early 70's Model 99 Marlin and 60 Glenfield was plagued with ejector problems.
The ejector was a cast-in-place projection on the sintered metal feed throat. . That ejector tip wore off very quickly on some batches of feed throats,,which were outside sourced by Marlin.
Many of the rifles couldn't make it through a Range trip w/o FTEject problems.
They used to come back in on warantee for repair by the pallet from BigBoxStores and FailtoEject was the usual reason.

In the early 70's a Repair Dept employee came up with the idea of using the un-used end of the torsion spring powering the cartridge lifter as the ejector. Instead of that end of the spring simply being bent and captured in the sideplate of the action under the recv'r, he made an extra long spring that wrapped around and came up and over the feed throat. Then sat in a groove filed in the old usually worn out ejector tip.
The blunt end of the spring wire was now the ejector point.
His hand made spring and fashioned ejector rifle ran around 50k rds through it w/o an ejection or feed problem in the range..

Marlin adopted the idea for the Model 99 some time later in the 70's and used it ever since then. It really saved that rifle.
The employee submitted the idea early on in one of those '$$ for ideas' plans that most factorys had then.
Clearly his idea, but got nothing for it. He was told that R&D had already thought of the idea and plans were in the works to make the mfg'ing change.


The bolt buffer in the back of the action breaks down quite often. Many just from age, they get brittle and crack. A few shots and they crumble and splinter to pieces.

If you pull the bbl'd action assembly out of the wood and there's little splinters and pieces of white or an off-yellow plastic down in the wood inlet near the back,,that stuff is the remnants of the bolt buffer.
Replacement s are generally available from places like Brownells. The Factory replacements were just that, no better than the one used to assemble the rifle and they'd last a few years and then break.

I used to make then from Delrin (sp?) and they lasted OK.
Kind of overkill I guess, but they held together.

To replace them you have to take the action off of the bottom of the alloy frame. That's easy enough.
Then you have to remove one side plate to be able to lift the buffer from the assembly.
The cross pins holding the side plates together are(were?) locked together with tiny C clips.
Most important thing is to place a bent paperclip thu the mainspring follower of the hammer spring and then trip the sear and let the hammer forward till the paperclip holds the mainspring secure against the mainspring strut.
(Kind of like taking a Ruger SAA mainspring out.)

Otherwise things fly away when you pull the side plate off...

If you remove the bolt from the recv'r, make sure you don't kink the long smal dia recoil spring when reassembling it.
Make use of the recoil spring guide rod to help slide the spring back in place.
Many do have a kink in them from hasty reassembly and still function OK. But it can play hell on extraction/ejection with some ammo especially StdVel.

The older ones didn't have a last shot bolt hold open,,I think the 'newer' ones do. Seems like one my brother had did. It was from the 80's some time. That's 'newer' in my book!
Those older mfg did have a manual bolt hold open.
Pull the bolt back and push the charging handle in and it holds the bolt open. Handy for cleaning, inspection and range etiquette.

I always think about the hundreds and more of these and Model80 series bolt 22's we destroyed because they didn't have ser#'s on them.
Sent in from those retail outlets on warantee exchanges. The customers had already gotten a new rifle in exchange. These were pre 68 mfg rifles with no ser#'s. It was now post 68.
The rifles at first were rebuilt/repaired and a new ser# stamped on them per ATF OK. Then it was decided it wasn't worth the effort. So those unser#'d rifles would be stripped for their parts, the parts refinished and the recv'rs destroyed. Then that was too much effort and time.
So the entire rifles were simply sawed into pieces and disposed of.

It's always a matter of $$. Sometimes a couple pennys one way or the other.

Thanks, 2152 hq! Great info. I’ll be sure to see if any parts need replacing in mine. Advertised as “like new” and the pictures make it look fantastic but you know how online gun ads can be. Only paid about a buck fifty for it so if it’s a dud gun, not too much of a loss.
 
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