Can't loosen extractor rod on K-frame

[dpsix]

I have been unable to loosen the extractor rod on a 70's vintage K-frame. I have an extractor rod removal tool, I'm supporting the star with empty cases, reverse threads.... I can only quess that loctite has been used on this revolver. Would modest heat to the rod while shielding the cylinder be worth trying? Any suggestions? Thank you.

 

[PPC'r]

To loosen you need to go clockwise. Just the opposite of normal.

 

[tomcatt51]

Grab the extractor rod in a drill chuck, one that uses a chuck key.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

This is the way I do it and I have never seen one I can't get loose-

I place two pieces of clean, sanded pine 1x's between the jaws of my shop vice, then I place the rod itself in between them and tighten the jaws down good and snug. I make sure that the cylinder is close to the edges of the wood to help prevent any side torque on the rod that might bend it. The pine is soft enough that the rod can be compressed into the wood which gives a great hold. I use the empty cases too, and in all chambers. I simply grab the cylinder with my bare hands and turn it loose-righty loosey in this case. When done and ready to reassemble, I simply reverse the process, lefty tighty. You can get the rod snug enough that it won't come loose again, and not do any harm to the rod's finish either.

 

[kleeber]

Are you for sure that it is a left-hand thread? If there is a small groove behind the knurled end on the extractor rod, it is probably LH. Otherwise, it may be RH.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Are you for sure that it is a left-hand thread? If there is a small groove behind the knurled end on the extractor rod, it is probably LH. Otherwise, it may be RH.

The switch from right hand to left hand threads took place in the '60-'61 timespan. Any '70's vintage S&W will have left handed threads. Sometime in the '80's, S&W went back to using rods without the relief cut behind the knurling so you can't rely on that either.

 

[m1gunner]

If you think it has red locktite, heat is about you can get to it. There is a solvent that will work, but is doubtful it will wick enough in the threads to help.

If it were mine, I would have it mounted to the removal tool, with 6 empty cases in place and toss it in an oven @ 325 degrees till it heat soaks.

Then pull it out and twist it off. Pot holders or clean welders gloves might be a good idea for this maneuver.

Some grades of red locktite need over 400 degrees, not sure I am comfortable with that much heat.

 

[dpsix]

I think I will let the cylinder sit in some penetrating oil for a day or two, mount it back in the removal tool, mount the tool in lathe chuck to free up a hand, heat the rod with a hair dryer first and see what happens. I have always managed to get these things loose just using lead shims and a small table vice. This one is different. I do believe it is the dreaded Red Loctite. My gun buying choices as of late have been nothing to brag about.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

If some knuckle head put locktite on the rod, place cylinder assembly in toaster oven. Heat the oven to approximately 482 degrees Fahrenheit. Disassemble turning clockwise while hot. If you allow the parts to cool, the locktite will reactivate.

 

[tomcatt51]

Soak/submerge it in acetone. That will disolve the loctite. If it was loctited.

 

[chief38]

I have not personally tried this, but I used to deal with the local Locktite Rep. in my area and he told me that a few drops of new Locktite on the old Locktite will dissolve it temporarily, long enough to loosen the stuck thread. I know that "like substances dissolve like substances" so in theory it should work perfectly.


G4F:

I use the same wood-in-a-vise method as well. Works great. Also insert spent cases in all charges holes to keep from twisting.

Chief38

 

[Milton]

I have used an electric soldering iron to locally heat the rod and remove it while hot.

 

[andyo5]

If some knuckle head put locktite on the rod, place cylinder assembly in toaster oven. Heat the oven to approximately 482 degrees Fahrenheit. Disassemble turning clockwise while hot. If you allow the parts to cool, the locktite will reactivate.

I guess that I must qualify as a knuckle head. I had a '70s Bangor Punta made model 14 and found that both the cylinder latch screw and the extractor rod would unscrew themselves on a regular basis. Loctite solved the problem in both cases, but I used blue Loctite, not red.
If someone used red loctite, you are unlikely to break it free without either chemical treatment or major mechanical force.
Unless there is a specific reason to remove the extractor rod, I'd leave it alone and just enjoy shooting the gun. But you may feel differently, of course.

 

[tdan]

<This is the way I do it and I have never seen one I can't get loose-

I place two pieces of clean, sanded pine 1x's between the jaws of my shop vice, then I place the rod itself in between them and tighten the jaws down good and snug. I make sure that the cylinder is close to the edges of the wood to help prevent any side torque on the rod that might bend it. The pine is soft enough that the rod can be compressed into the wood which gives a great hold. I use the empty cases too, and in all chambers. I simply grab the cylinder with my bare hands and turn it loose-righty loosey in this case. When done and ready to reassemble, I simply reverse the process, lefty tighty. You can get the rod snug enough that it won't come loose again, and not do any harm to the rod's finish either. >

+1 on this technique. If you have soaked it in oil, make sure that you thoroughly degrease the cylinder assembly before you put it back together. I use CRC Brakleen. You should not have to lock-tite the center pin and the rod if the threads are oil free. Every time I come across a rod that I can loosen with my fingers, it is invariably a gun that is over-oiled.

 

[chief38]

andyo5:

Next time you experience an extractor loosening up, give the method that G4F and I have used; it works rather well. Two pieces of relatively soft wood in a vise, spent cases in the cylinder charge holes and your bare hand. Like G4F states, keep the cylinder close to the wood so the rod does not bend when you tighten it. I think you will not need any Locktite at all. Just remember, modern Smith's have left handed extractor threads.

Regards,
Chief38

 

[dpsix]

Thank you all for the help. Soaked the cylinder last night in penetrating oil and this morning in acetone. Mounted the removal tool on rod, toasted it, chucked tool holding the extractor rod in lathe and with a reasonable twist on the cylinder, off it came. Extractor, rod and collar now soaking in acetone to remove crud from threads. You all should write a supplement to Jerry Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual.

 

[Black_Talon]

...toasted it,

At what temp?

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

I guess that I must qualify as a knuckle head.

I hate to run across this product when I'm working on guns. When someone uses the strong stuff, I run the chance of stripping screws or breaking stuff. S&W doesn't use this on their guns because they know how to tighten them down correctly. They have been making revolvers for over 150 years, so I'd take their opinions on some stuff. I paid good money for the S&W Armorers manual plus the AGI DVDs so I'm prejudiced on some gun repair methods. Schools can do that to a person.

I promise you, If I ever worked on your gun, your extractor rod wouldn't loosen up, and I didn't use 1 drop of locktite on it.

Sure, the other minor screws will loosen, but that's what a screw driver is for. Whenever I clean them, I go over the frame and just snug all the screws up. Shooting the 500 Mag, you really need a screw driver and go over that gun!

I love guys who locktite the rear sights on their pistols then cry that the gun won't fire. The stuff leaked down into the firing pin channel and froze the firing pin up. Into the oven it goes! But that's another story.

 

[tennexplorer]

I hate to run across this product when I'm working on guns. When someone uses the strong stuff, I run the chance of stripping screws or breaking stuff. S&W doesn't use this on their guns because they know how to tighten them down correctly. They have been making revolvers for over 150 years, so I'd take their opinions on some stuff. I paid good money for the S&W Armorers manual plus the AGI DVDs so I'm prejudiced on some gun repair methods. Schools can do that to a person.

I promise you, If I ever worked on your gun, your extractor rod wouldn't loosen up, and I didn't use 1 drop of locktite on it.

Sure, the other minor screws will loosen, but that's what a screw driver is for. Whenever I clean them, I go over the frame and just snug all the screws up. Shooting the 500 Mag, you really need a screw driver and go over that gun!

I love guys who locktite the rear sights on their pistols then cry that the gun won't fire. The stuff leaked down into the firing pin channel and froze the firing pin up. Into the oven it goes! But that's another story.

Sir,

Three comments.

1. Your advice is superb and we appreciate it.
2. Can this be added to the FAQs?
3. Have you ever thought about teaching a course or at least making a DVD?

 

[9146gt]

If some knuckle head put locktite on the rod, place cylinder assembly in toaster oven. Heat the oven to approximately 482 degrees Fahrenheit. Disassemble turning clockwise while hot. If you allow the parts to cool, the locktite will reactivate.

I think any temp above 350 F will start to re heatreat the steel.

Tom