Love my 15-22, frustrated with new scope though

[Mike Panic]

I bought a 15-22 a few weeks ago on a whim, actually went to a gun shop to check out an H&K MP5 .22, they were out of stock and the guy at the counter talked me into the 15-22. Within the first few rounds shooting on the iron sights @ 25 yards I was making 3" groups, but hated the fact that the front sight covered the bullseye and hated actually walking up to the target to see where I should be.

Yesterday I went to a gun show in my town and picked up a bi-pod, extra mag and an off-brand 3-9x42 scope (sniper, green / red illuminated) with laser mount on the side. It looks very similar to the NC Star Mark III with the exception of the quick release on the left instead of right and the laser mounted to the side of the scope.

So, I've never zero'd a scope, much less set one up. Watched a few videos on YouTube and totally understand the concept. Last night at a friends house with 30+ acres and a safe valley to shoot within, we setup some targets and had problems hitting paper. First thing this morning I went to the range and at 25 yards couldn't hit my 18" wide paper targets. Put a target at 10 yards and started to hit the paper. I was able to adjust the widage with no problem, but elevation was still off by nearly 8" will the adjuster knob was fully spun out.

Went back to the 25 yard targets and the windage was off again by 2+ inches and for obvious reasons, it was still shooting super low.

It's mounted to the rail firmly, what else can I do? Do I need a short riser on this thing? It does sit about a 1/4-3/8th inch lower than the iron sights. I'm ready to throw the thing against the wall.

 

[G26ster]

If you have good eye relief (you can see the entire reticle with the gun held normally), with a good cheek weld, then your scope is mounted properly. Height of the scope should not affect it. Do you have good eye relief? if so, the problem is the scope. Also check to make sure you tried to zero elevation in the right direction. Scopes marked "UP/DOWN" tell you which direction you want to move the 'bullet strike" not the cross hairs. It's not uncommon to move the dial the wrong way.

 

[Mike Panic]

If this was the target I was using:

I would aim for the "3" that is above the red center dot and I'd hit dead center bullseye @ 10 yards. This would make me believe That the bullet is hitting low. I'd adjust elevation "up" on my scope, which is indicated by 1 click - 1/2" on it. I had the nut turned to the point where it wouldn't turn anymore and it bullet strikes would barely "move up" any.

I had to start aiming high center (1-2-3 from top center down) because the gun was shooting so low with the scope it wasn't striking paper. If I aimed for bullseye, I'd hit 3-4 towards the bottom (6 o'clock).

Am I doing this correctly?

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

1. Scope not mounted flush with rifle rail (easy to happen with lifted pin in mount), or debris between scope mount and rifle rail.

2. Scope elevation adjustment being turned in wrong direction.

3. Dime store optic quality control issue.

I would suggest checking #1 and remounting scope.

Since you have been cranking on the elevation adjustment, I would gently turn the adjustment until it reaches the stop. Then I would turn it in the opposite direction until it stops (while counting the number of total clicks). Then I would turn the adjustment back half the number of total clicks.

Return to range and try again.

If it don't work then #3.

 

[Mike Panic]

1. Scope mounted flush - double and triple checked nothing was in it.

2. See my previous post, pretty sure I have that on point.

3. It's essentially an NC Star scope, box it came in is identical with the exception of the logo. These things get great reviews on here and Amazon.

 

[G26ster]

If this was the target I was using:

I would aim for the "3" that is above the red center dot and I'd hit dead center bullseye @ 10 yards. This would make me believe That the bullet is hitting low. I'd adjust elevation "up" on my scope, which is indicated by 1 click - 1/2" on it. I had the nut turned to the point where it wouldn't turn anymore and it bullet strikes would barely "move up" any.

I had to start aiming high center (1-2-3 from top center down) because the gun was shooting so low with the scope it wasn't striking paper. If I aimed for bullseye, I'd hit 3-4 towards the bottom (6 o'clock).

Am I doing this correctly?

OK, did you "bore sight" the scope prior to shooting? Do you know where in it's range the elevation knob started? If no to both, I would do as ChattanoogaPhil says, "I would gently turn the adjustment until it reaches the stop. Then I would turn it in the opposite direction until it stops (while counting the number of total clicks). Then I would turn the adjustment back half the number of total clicks."

Once that is done bore sight the scope, or have it bore sighted, then go shoot it for the final zero. if still no luck, get a refund on the scope as it is defective. You'll find out if you bore sight the scope whether the elevation adjustment is working as it should. The average gun shop charges about $10 to bore sight. tell them of your problem in advance.

One other thing on your iron sights. Try adjusting your front sight to the "6 o'clock hold" position. That is, the bull is sitting atop the front post like a pumpkin on a stick. That way you can see your target. That's the preferred method for target shooting.

 

[Mike Panic]

Thanks everyone - being that I bought this at a gun show, I returned it - seller was fine with that.

In the market again for a 3-9x?? scope - Found this on rranges and it's $15 through Amazon: Amazon.com: 3-9X40 Rubber Scope/Ruby Lens/Ring: Sports & Outdoors and am leaning that way. Really want to be under $60 for a scope, don't need illumination or laser, it was just a nice extra touch for $85, the price of the piece I returned.

 

[BXRandall]

NCStar is a grab bag on quality. So are BSA, Barska, Leaper/UTG...that being said the NC would be my last choice. Would go for one of the others in your price range. Leapers/UTG bug buster or one of the BSA scopes.

 

[E6type]

I would aim for the "3" that is above the red center dot and I'd hit dead center bullseye @ 10 yards. This would make me believe That the bullet is hitting low. I'd adjust elevation "up" on my scope, which is indicated by 1 click - 1/2" on it. I had the nut turned to the point where it wouldn't turn anymore and it bullet strikes would barely "move up" any.

I had to start aiming high center (1-2-3 from top center down) because the gun was shooting so low with the scope it wasn't striking paper. If I aimed for bullseye, I'd hit 3-4 towards the bottom (6 o'clock).

Am I doing this correctly?

At 10 yards your bullet is going to be below the point of aim whether you were using a scope, red dot or iron sites. That's because of you physical distance between the sights and the muzzle. If you were to continue to successfully zero a scope at that distance, you would be in for some real headaches while shooting at more realistic distances.

 

[G26ster]

At 10 yards your bullet is going to be below the point of aim whether you were using a scope, red dot or iron sites. That's because of you physical distance between the sights and the muzzle. If you were to continue to successfully zero a scope at that distance, you would be in for some real headaches while shooting at more realistic distances.

While 10 yds is a poor distance to zero a scope, a ballistics calculator for 36gr HP coated .22lr ammunitions shows very small differences compared to what the OP experienced. If zeroed at 10 yds, the bullet impact at 25 yds would be about 1.5" high, at 50 yds, about 2.9", and at 100yds, only 0.5" low. OP stated that his shots were still a 8" low, and the elevation adjustment did no good. Here's a shot of the Winchester Bullet Calculator chart for the .22lr. (Crosswind set at 10mph)

 

[Mike Panic]

Right- at 25 yards I couldn't hit the paper with elevation adjustment turned all the way to either direction and roughly in the middle. Super frustrating. Will be buying a new scope in a few days after a business trip and locating a local gun shop to bore sight it for me.

 

[Maximumbob54]

Wait...

Someone makes a knock off of an Ncstar scope???

End of the world.

 

[Mike Panic]

Wait...

Someone makes a knock off of an Ncstar scope???

End of the world.

I get the sarcasm, I was trying to explain that there is no branding, but looks the same in every other way. I understand they all come out of the same factory in China and go into different boxes saying different things. Shooting isn't my only hobby, this holds true in many other sectors as well - such as cycling, which I'm also heavily involved with.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Wait...

Someone makes a knock off of an Ncstar scope???

End of the world.

Now THAT'S funny!

 

[Maximumbob54]

Sorry, I really don't mean to sound like a jerk. I have just had no end of bad luck with bottom shelf optics. I won't bother anymore, and the statement just struck me as too much not to pop off a little. Seriously, I would buy another Eotech before I bought a no name scope. Or the new line from Redfield is great and very well priced. No more Ncstar, Tasco, Leapers, UTG, or any other CTD special... I'm not being an optics snob either... I still have the last Ncstar that I bought. And it will stay the last one.

 

[Hobie1]

One question

When your scope is mounted is the front bell of the scope touching the rail? If it is you can adjust all you want but the scope will not zero.

I have dealt with this with a friends sks. Inexpensive scope but pretty clear. Could not depress the zero enough. Front bell was touching the mounting rail. Moved his scope forward, without getting it pinged by ejected brass and all is good.

My PC wouldn't zero with a particular scope. Too low of mounts.

Check it out.

Hobie

 

[Redbulladdikt]

When your scope is mounted is the front bell of the scope touching the rail? If it is you can adjust all you want but the scope will not zero.

I have dealt with this with a friends sks. Inexpensive scope but pretty clear. Could not depress the zero enough. Front bell was touching the mounting rail. Moved his scope forward, without getting it pinged by ejected brass and all is good.

My PC wouldn't zero with a particular scope. Too low of mounts.

Check it out.

Hobie

if this is an issue Scheels carries a very very good riser for about $20 that will also allow you to remedy the issue and if you decide to switch to a Red Dot or Reflex sight at any point you will NEED it to make them work at all

 

[G26ster]

if this is an issue Scheels carries a very very good riser for about $20 that will also allow you to remedy the issue and if you decide to switch to a Red Dot or Reflex sight at any point you will NEED it to make them work at all

When I had a red dot on my 15-22 I had no riser, and had no trouble sighting at all.

 

[Redbulladdikt]

When I had a red dot on my 15-22 I had no riser, and had no trouble sighting at all.

i tried that setup originally (see my post in the picture thread) and had to bury my cheek into the stock and it was uncomfortable to shoot and a pain to sight

just my opinion that a $20 riser made it much easier to shoot and opened options for future swap-outs

if it works for you though maybe share the sight you are utilizing to help make the decision easier for panic?>

 

[G26ster]

i tried that setup originally (see my post in the picture thread) and had to bury my cheek into the stock and it was uncomfortable to shoot and a pain to sight

just my opinion that a $20 riser made it much easier to shoot and opened options for future swap-outs

if it works for you though maybe share the sight you are utilizing to help make the decision easier for panic?>

That red dot is a Truglo 8 Reticle sight (4 red, 4 green). Panic wants an optical sight which is what is on my 15-22 now. I guess I like a tight cheek weld, so it worked for me. I now have a 3-12x44 BSA mounted on high rings which I like better, as this gun is a range gun and I can leave my spotting scope at home, as I can see my hits just fine at 100 yds.

The red dot is going back on when my mount gets here. It will be a back up to the optical sight. I will lose the tight cheek weld with that if I mount it above the optical sight. I'm considering mounting it at 45 degrees though. Here is the 15-22 today.