We had a Vermont Castings wood stove in our living room for 25 years before converting to natural gas (and retiring). Several things to consider:
First, Creosote. Burn a hot fire occasionally and use "Anti-Creosote", you can find it on the Internet from a company in New Hampshire. Turns the buildup in the chimney to powder and is easy to remove. We used it for 25 years and wouldn't be without it.
Second, burn only wood that has been seasoned but not that's so dry it burns to fast. Stay away from pine and anything with sap. Woods like oak and hard rock maple are best. Ash is OK, easy to split, but tends to burn faster.
The article about stacking and curing is good with one exception. If you have green wood in the spring and want it to dry by fall you need to cover it. But do it like this. Put pallets on the ground for air circulation, stack the wood log cabin style up to about 4 feet. Do this in an area that gets the most sun. Cover it with 6 mil plastic, over the top and no more than 12" down the sides. This will create what is known as a "Solar Kiln", using the heat of the sun to cure the wood. I've cured green wood in several months with this method.
I preferred a splitting maul, 6 to 8 pound, rather than an axe. A splitting block is a good idea, about 2 feet in diameter and a height to suit you (hardwood), as well as a heavy duty canvas carry bag to lug the wood. A thermometer for the stovepipe is helpful, as is one for the top of the stove. You'll also need cleaning brushes, nylon or steel, sized for your chimney.
We never had a chimney fire and you won't either as long as you keep the chimney clean. I suggest having someone from your fire department check it out first, just to be sure it's safe. They have seen chimney fires before and know what to look for. Also let your insurance company know, they may inspect it also.
That's about it for now, if I can think of any anything else I'll let you know. Welcome to wood burning, nothing like it on a cold night.