Newb Needs Help with Revolver Maintenance

[Klein Helmer]

Hi guys,

Sorry to always bust in with these beginner questions. As some of you may know, I had never owned (or even fired) any guns until very recently. Accordingly, I want to take as good of care of them as possible.

I am particularly wondering about the cleaning and maintenance for a stainless, N frame, 629 .44 magnum. I don't even know where to start. Are there any all inclusive cleaning kits that can address all of the gun's needs? I know I will probably need brushes, lubricant, cloths, etc - but of which sort I don't know.

I'd like to do a good job of cleaning and preserving both the interior and exterior of the weapon. Where should I start?

I also have a question about humidity: I live upstairs in a place that can get hot and humid when I'm out and the air conditioner isn't running. I've heard that significantly fluctuating temperatures and humidity can be problematic and even lead to corrosion/rusting.

Please Educate Me,

- Helmer

 

[Tadeus67]

I recommend you to get the S&W Revolver Manual:

THE S&W REVOLVER - A SHOP MANUAL | Brownells

The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

with this book you will learn the Do´s and dont´s of the S&W revolvers

 

[SJshooter]

Here is a great link for cleaning info:

Cleaning the Ruger Security Six .357 Magnum

 

[NZshooter]

Here is how I clean revolvers and protect them from rust.

Really??

"First, unload the revolver and remove the stocks. Next, liberally spray Eezox into every opening - up the gripframe, into the area around the hammer and the trigger (both hammer up and hammer down). The Eezox should run out of various openings, and most likely you will see brown "gunk" coming out of the revolver. I then wait for the Eezox to dry, and carefully wipe down the revolver."


It's that simple?? I'm mostly an auto guy and have been trying to learn about the cleaning the internals of wheel guns myself. Personally I don't want to remove the side plate and go fishing around in there.

 

[Klein Helmer]

I recommend you to get the S&W Revolver Manual:

THE S&W REVOLVER - A SHOP MANUAL | Brownells

The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

with this book you will learn the Do´s and dont´s of the S&W revolvers

Great. Thank you I will definitely be getting this.

Here is a great link for cleaning info:

Cleaning the Ruger Security Six .357 Magnum

Thank you. Reading it right now.

Here is how I clean revolvers and protect them from rust.

Cleaning / Lubing Colt double action internals

Thanks for the advice. I read and watched a bit more about Eezox.

 

[Macinaw]

Really??

"First, unload the revolver and remove the stocks. Next, liberally spray Eezox into every opening - up the gripframe, into the area around the hammer and the trigger (both hammer up and hammer down). The Eezox should run out of various openings, and most likely you will see brown "gunk" coming out of the revolver. I then wait for the Eezox to dry, and carefully wipe down the revolver."


It's that simple?? I'm mostly an auto guy and have been trying to learn about the cleaning the internals of wheel guns myself. Personally I don't want to remove the side plate and go fishing around in there.

My method is similar to the above.

I take the grips off. Spray everything down with brake fluid cleaner. After that dries I spray with Rem Oil. I also run a bore snake through the cylinder cambers and barrel.

I also live in a high humidity environment. No problems with rusting or corrosion. When I'm not shooting the guns are in a safe with A/C in the room. Just open the door and let the safe air out every once and a while.

 

[rwsmith]

Youtube

Youtube is a good source to WATCH something being done but you might have to view several vids to get the whole process.

 

[shawn mccarver]

My method should not take more than 5 minutes or so. It is as follows:

Unload revolver. No need to remove grips. Fasten brass bristle brush to cleaning rod and dip brush into Hoppes No 9. Pass moistened brush through barrel 2 or 3 times. Repeat procedure for each charge hole. Let solvent stand in barrel and charge holes while doing the rest to give solvent time to "work."

Using nylon tooth brush moistened in Hoppes No 9 (not the one you use on your teeth), lightly scrub at areas where you see burned powder, ash or other firing residue. Be sure to scrub under extractor star to make sure there are no particles or grains of powder or debris under there that could interfere with closing cylinder. Also scrub around the firing end of the cylinder - you will never get all the black off, but that's ok - you mainly want to make sure and scrub away any debris that might interfere with rotation.

Now use shop rag (dry) and wipe all exterior surfaces - the firing residue should pretty much come right off except for the black rings on the firing end of the cylinder. Don't worry about them!

Once the exterior is dry, now place a jag on your cleaning rod and run a dry patch through the barrel and each charge hole. They should all be nice and shiny now.

Place a few drops of Break Free CLP on a dry patch and use the jag on the cleaning rod to run the oily patch through the barrel and charge holes to leave a LIGHT film of oil.

Now place one drop on each side of the revolver and use your finger to spread it around leaving a light film of oil on the exterior surfaces. You don't want your revolver dripping with oil.

Unless you drop your revolver in the ocean or a mud hole, there is no need to ever remove the side plate. Once per year place a single drop of oil into the action at the top by cocking the hammer a dropping one drop of oil down into the action. Do not over lube the interior as it will "gunk up" over time and make the works "sludgy."

You are finished. Go do something else fun.

 

[Gunsnwater]

The only thing I do differently from Shawn is I don't dip bronze brushes in hoppes it eats them and contaminates the solvent. I wet swab first with patch and hoppes then dry patch then brush. Clean brush with spray can over trash can. Swab bore and chambers with hoppes at the range when done and let it soak for the ride home. Hoppes needs time to work. Go over it again a day later and you get more out. then light oil. The grips off thing is a once a year deal unless you are going through cases of ammo or get it wet. Pay attention and do not scrape any part with the cleaning rod. Follow Shawn's instructions and you'll be doing fine.

 

[Klein Helmer]

Thanks again everyone for all of the informative responses.

Do any of you do anything to clean/store the bronze bore brush?

I was wondering if that sat around dirty, if it might rust then transmit rust onto the revolver.

 

[Pisgah]

Read the manual. Do what it says. Years from now you may want to take off the side-plate and clean the action, but you probably won't need to even then.

Truth.

 

[Wee Hooker]

Read the manual. Do what it says. Years from now you may want to take off the side-plate and clean the action, but you probably won't need to even then.

Truth.

Exactly. A revolver is designed to run half a lifetime without interior fiddling. IMHO, more firearms are ruined by over zealous cleaning than any other means. If you doubt, start searching the smiting section for references to bent side plates, launched springs, poor timing, etc.

Enjoy the gun but clean the bore, cylinders and exterior with each use and leave it alone.