scratched my gun!

[dodo502]

so i managed to put a decently long scratch down the side of my slide today. its not deep, just a surface scratch. do they make something i can apply to it to cover it up or hide it?

 

[Bkreutz]

I'd use a Sharpie

 

[TahoeDust]

I have heard of people using jewelers rouge.

 

[Nframecollector]

Can you post a picture?

 

[Arik]

Nothing. Its a sign of use. What it was designed for. One of these days I have to put a pic of my AR

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

 

[shawn mccarver]

so i managed to put a decently long scratch down the side of my slide today. its not deep, just a surface scratch. do they make something i can apply to it to cover it up or hide it?

That slide is melonite (tenifer) which makes the slide very hard. What did you scratch it with - a diamond?

Mostly, what looks like scratches on Glock or M&P slides is the material flaked or rubbed off of whatever you scratched it against. It typically comes right off with a good solvent, scrub and "elbow grease."

One time, to my horror, a Glock armorer rubbed a nail as hard as he could back and forth against the slide. All it did was leave deposits from the nail on the slide. The nail was noticeably shorter. It scrubbed right off.

I do not know about S&W, but Glock formerly parkerized their slides after the tenifer QPQ metal treatment. They still do some kind of finish after the tenifer, and often that finish rubs off, but the slide does not lose its hardness or corrosion resistance since tenifer/melonite is not a "coating," but a QPQ metal treatment. Thus, while you may get discoloration from rubbing it against an abrasive of some type, you do not lose the hardness or corrosion resistance of the melonite/tenifer.*

*Melonite and tenifer are the same thing. See this site, which is the company that owns the process. It explains:

"MELONITE / QPQ

MELONITE, and its synonymous trade-name, Tufftride (or Tenifer), is a relatively straight-forward, flexible process to operate and maintain, and produces exceptionally uniform case hardening. The MELONITE process begins with the placement of parts in a re-circulating air preheat furnace, followed by immersion for 60-240 minutes in a molten nitrogen-rich salt solution contained in an aerated furnace. After nitriding, parts are treated in an oxidizing bath, water-cooled and rinsed.

An alternative series of post-nitriding steps involves a Quench-Polish-Quench (QPQ) sequence after liquid nitriding. For many applications, this finishing process provides a surface condition that protects against corrosion and wear better than hard chrome or nickel plating."

http://www.hefusa.net/melonite_qpq.html

 

[Rapidray]

That slide is melonite (tenifer) which makes the slide very hard. What did you scratch it with - a diamond?

Mostly, what looks like scratches on Glock or M&P slides is the material flaked or rubbed off of whatever you scratched it against. It typically comes right off with a good solvent, scrub and "elbow grease."

A one time, to my horror, had a Glock armorer rub a nail as hard as he could back and forth against the slide. All it did was leave deposits from the nail on the slide. The nail was noticeably shorter. It scrubbed right off.

I will take your word on that...I do not want to find out on mine lol thanks for the info

 

[moxie]

Try a green scrubby sponge lightly. If that doesn't work nothing will fix it short of a re-coat.

 

[agksimon]

If you use a form fit Kydex holster that you draw from a lot, you will eventually get a wear mark in the Melonite finish on the slide.

 

[dodo502]

 

[dodo502]

and i scratched it on the button sliding it into my holster....such a rookie

 

[dodo502]

That slide is melonite (tenifer) which makes the slide very hard. What did you scratch it with - a diamond?

Mostly, what looks like scratches on Glock or M&P slides is the material flaked or rubbed off of whatever you scratched it against. It typically comes right off with a good solvent, scrub and "elbow grease."

One time, to my horror, a Glock armorer rubbed a nail as hard as he could back and forth against the slide. All it did was leave deposits from the nail on the slide. The nail was noticeably shorter. It scrubbed right off.

thats nuts! deffinitly will take your word on that! but what would you use for a good "solvent"

 

[NTH]

That should come off, I've holstered and unholstered my M&P 40 hundreds of times from a kydex holster and it shows zero wear so far.

 

[Autococker07]

2000 rounds and 2 stations of the cross


Nah you didn't scratch your M&P, but you got some copper/brass/alum/silver/etc fouling on it somewhere.... happens all the time in the gun store with guys & their rings.... the coating will actually abrade most other metals.... you can use a "lead cleaning cloth", a pencil eraser, or just oil cloth and elbow grease.... to get the marks off it....

 

[Rintimtin]

I think I scratch mine all the time but it usually just wipes off when I clean it.

 

[Bkreutz]

This will take it off. (just don't leave it on the metal). Sweet's 7.62 Bore Cleaning Solvent 200 ml Liquid

 

[Jakpro]

That does not look like a scratch to me. It appears to be residue from whatever contacted the slide. It should rub off with a Scotchbrite pad and a little water. If that does not work, try some Flitz or similar product.

 

[MSG Glenn]

I can't believe that the button you scratched it with is harder than the slide of an M&P. As it's been stated I'm sure that's button residue. It should be able to be removed. I wouldn't have any ideas how or what to use, though. CLP & elbow grease for starters? Hoppes #9?

 

[Nframecollector]

Perhaps use a leather holster? I've never been a non leather holster fan!

 

[Nutshell]

You can always have the slide redone. Try Ionbond. Very durable.