Ruger Mk II Standard Problem.....help!
- Thread starter loeman
- Start date
Yes, then it it is a M1 around 1979 as mentioned or if no letters a pre Mark. The slide will not hold back after the last round. Regardless the take down is the same.
There is no reason to go beyond field stripping. The internals can be cleaned out with gun scrubber spray or CHLORINATED Break Kleen (Red can) it contains TCE and will clean degrease and dry almost instantly. Will not harm the finish. May leave white spots but they wipe off with oil. CLP whatever.
There is no reason to go beyond field stripping. The internals can be cleaned out with gun scrubber spray or CHLORINATED Break Kleen (Red can) it contains TCE and will clean degrease and dry almost instantly. Will not harm the finish. May leave white spots but they wipe off with oil. CLP whatever.
hangnoose
Member
cleaning from the muzzle
YES you can, and an awful lot of people ONLY do it that way, I'm guilty myself for doing it that way at x's. Yeah it will clean it well enough to keep it running a VERY long time, but that doesn't really mean much as they will run a very long time with no cleaning. Mine currently still works fine with a broken bolt stop pin. (part on the way for free) With some hand issues I bought my current mkll gov't last august, removed the bbl from the frame to clean/inspect and have been cleaning it "incorrectly" almost religiously after every use. Taking it down again yesterday to get the broken part out, I was pretty amazed at how much crud was in there, while still working so well. I don't know the exact # of times it takes but it does get easier, a lot is the users increased experience I expect. For now I'd recommend a penetrating type oil & let it sit overnight (be sure it's safe for the finish), I used pb blaster (the one specifically safe for guns ONLY). IF you get frustrated, walk away and try it again another day, sometimes it just happens EZ-PZ, the next time. If you want you could do the walk of shame & take it to a smith, it wouldn't be the first one they were asked to strip or re-assemble, just be ready for some kidding.
YES you can, and an awful lot of people ONLY do it that way, I'm guilty myself for doing it that way at x's. Yeah it will clean it well enough to keep it running a VERY long time, but that doesn't really mean much as they will run a very long time with no cleaning. Mine currently still works fine with a broken bolt stop pin. (part on the way for free) With some hand issues I bought my current mkll gov't last august, removed the bbl from the frame to clean/inspect and have been cleaning it "incorrectly" almost religiously after every use. Taking it down again yesterday to get the broken part out, I was pretty amazed at how much crud was in there, while still working so well. I don't know the exact # of times it takes but it does get easier, a lot is the users increased experience I expect. For now I'd recommend a penetrating type oil & let it sit overnight (be sure it's safe for the finish), I used pb blaster (the one specifically safe for guns ONLY). IF you get frustrated, walk away and try it again another day, sometimes it just happens EZ-PZ, the next time. If you want you could do the walk of shame & take it to a smith, it wouldn't be the first one they were asked to strip or re-assemble, just be ready for some kidding.
hangnoose
Member
* WARNING WILL ROGERS* POST # 22
Use NON!!! chlorinated brake cleaner spray only!
Use NON!!! chlorinated brake cleaner spray only!
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ChattanoogaPhil
Member
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- Oct 18, 2009
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^^^^ This man knows how to operate a Ruger pistol.
I have three, and have found them to require nothing but to occasionally swab with a Qtip/CLP the bolt face, breech, chamber and drag a bore snake through it. My MKII was taken apart (not difficult) for the first time around 60k rounds and that was just to thread the barrel. The gun has always operated quite well, as do my 22/45 and MKIII Talo which have never seen anything but suppressed shooting.
Nothing wrong with disassembling a Ruger, and really it's not all that difficult (for most) I just find it unnecessary. But keep in mind the guy who posted that he makes money on folks not properly cleaning their guns. Far more folks with Ruger pistols end up going to a gun smith or returning it Ruger because they damaged their pistol taking it apart or putting it back together, or simply gave up trying. There are countless examples, but this is about as good as it gets. Ruger Mark III 22/45 - YouTube! Fast forward to 3min and 50sec. Enjoy.
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...Far more folks with Ruger pistols end up going to a gun smith or returning it Ruger because they damaged their pistol taking it apart or putting it back together, or simply gave up trying. There are countless examples, but this is about as good as it gets. Ruger Mark III 22/45 - YouTube! Fast forward to 3min and 50sec. Enjoy.
"Then I went and got a claw hammer"
I may have wet myself a little.
"Then I went to the gunsmith" was my favorite. I have a $20 dumba** fee (which I add on to the regular fee) for people like that.
One of my favorite repairs is when they bring them in with the magazine jammed in backwards. That magazine will actually latch right up in there, if you jam it in all the way.
We should have a thread for stuff like that. I have bits and pieces of guns I have fixed over the years, which were rendered inoperable by folks with hammers and cold chisels. I bring them out to show the clowns who think they "don't need a gunsmith".
Sorry do not agree
Why?? Yes, it is a solvent, yes you should wear gloves.
Non Chlorinated is Flammable (chlorinated is not) it contains acetone. It will eat up plastic parts
Read the MSDS for both and see wircg one you want to "play" with.
DANGER WILL ROBINSON DANGER - LOST IN SPACE - YouTube
There are countless examples, but this is about as good as it gets. Ruger Mark III 22/45 - YouTube! Fast forward to 3min and 50sec. Enjoy.
Wow - nothing like getting a bigger hammer. Hilarious - thanks for sharing! "Then I went to the gunsmith. He's a master gunsmith, 'I've taken hundreds of them apart'. He worked on that thing for 45 minutes to get it out of there." That's what happens when you beat the snot out of stuff... I can take mine apart in under 45 seconds and reassemble just as quickly...
OP
loeman
Member
^^^^ This man knows how to operate a Ruger pistol.
I have three, and have found them to require nothing but to occasionally swab with a Qtip/CLP the bolt face, breech, chamber and drag a bore snake through it. My MKII was taken apart (not difficult) for the first time around 60k rounds and that was just to thread the barrel. The gun has always operated quite well, as do my 22/45 and MKIII Talo which have never seen anything but suppressed shooting.
Nothing wrong with disassembling a Ruger, and really it's not all that difficult (for most) I just find it unnecessary. But keep in mind the guy who posted that he makes money on folks not properly cleaning their guns. Far more folks with Ruger pistols end up going to a gun smith or returning it Ruger because they damaged their pistol taking it apart or putting it back together, or simply gave up trying. There are countless examples, but this is about as good as it gets. Ruger Mark III 22/45 - YouTube! Fast forward to 3min and 50sec. Enjoy.
If you have not watched this YouTube video recommended by ChattanoogaPhil YOU MUST! You'll never look at a Ruger .22 again without thinking about that poor guy's mallet!
That guy in the video is a (insert name here)
Here is the best I have found without long drawn out yacking.
detailstrip
Click on the sections in the top box for what you want to do,
Here is the best I have found without long drawn out yacking.
detailstrip
Click on the sections in the top box for what you want to do,
ChattanoogaPhil
Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2009
- Messages
- 14,601
- Reaction score
- 20,622
"Then I went and got a claw hammer"
I may have wet myself a little.
"Then I went to the gunsmith" was my favorite. I have a $20 dumba** fee (which I add on to the regular fee) for people like that.
One of my favorite repairs is when they bring them in with the magazine jammed in backwards. That magazine will actually latch right up in there, if you jam it in all the way.
We should have a thread for stuff like that. I have bits and pieces of guns I have fixed over the years, which were rendered inoperable by folks with hammers and cold chisels. I bring them out to show the clowns who think they "don't need a gunsmith".
Not only are the antics described crazy funny, but his delivery is on par with a well timed comic. Great stuff... and a must see for all of us kitchen table gunsmiths.
BIG MISTAKE, BIG MISTAKE
I like when they bring them in in Zip Lock bags or boxes
I like when they bring them in in Zip Lock bags or boxes
Brian41
Member
My buddy gave me his 1949 Ruger Red Eagle before he died. First thing I did was take it apart and clean it well as Jim had told me he didn't know how to and always just cleaned it from the muzzle. It was tight taking the barrel off and man was it ever dirty after all those years of shooting it. I could hardly believe it even functioned and says something about the pistols.
I bought a MKII slightly used a few years ago and it had a horrible trigger. When I was installing a Clerk trigger kit I found a factory spring installed backwards either from factory or prior owner. Corrected that and now has a sweet trigger rivaling even my S&W Model 41.
I bought a MKII slightly used a few years ago and it had a horrible trigger. When I was installing a Clerk trigger kit I found a factory spring installed backwards either from factory or prior owner. Corrected that and now has a sweet trigger rivaling even my S&W Model 41.
Harrison
US Veteran
I have a Mk II 22/45 and a Mark III Hunter. Both are fine accurate pistols. If you read the owners manual for disassembly and assembly they are easy to get apart and put back together. All it takes is the ability to read and follow directions. It is true that the barrel to frame lockup can be tight, but that feature insures accuracy.
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