Why Do Some People Hate The Stock Trigger of The M&Ps?

[scorbing]

I see a lot of people replacing their stock triggers with an Apex. I'm not a big fan of altering guns and putting stuff that's not from the manufacturer on them as I'm afraid they will fail, nevertheless, I am wondering what exactly is wrong with the stock trigger on these guns? Is it too heavy? Too light? What?

I personally do not like a "light, sensitive" trigger because that can be a problem. I like my trigger to be not too heavy, not too light and I think the trigger on the M&P 45 is just fine. I haven't tried an Apex so I don't know what the difference is but if you guys can please explain the differences and why you prefer the Apex over the stock that would be awesome so I can understand a bit more. Thanks.

 

[photoman]

Reset. I'm used to a very tactile reset from shooting Glocks for decades.

 

[shotguntom]

My main reason for installing the Apex duty/carry kit in my Shield, the stock trigger was heavy and gritty. The kit turned a good gun into a fantastic gun. Put 500 rounds thru the gun since the install. NO issues at all.

 

[scorbing]

Reset. I'm used to a very tactile reset from shooting Glocks for decades.

According to this link:

Product: Smith & Wesson M&P45 - Black - Thumb Safety

The M&P trigger is 7 pounds. How many pounds is the one on the Glock?

 

[shotguntom]

Reset. I'm used to a very tactile reset from shooting Glocks for decades.

Yes the kit gave my gun a shorter, distinct reset.Another big plus

 

[scorbing]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it was my understanding that having a trigger like the one on the M&P is good for defense because it will give you a "chance" to back off and not pull the trigger and kill someone that may not need to be killed, unlike a sensitive trigger that would go off immediately and not give you a chance to retreat on your decision. Is this true?

 

[N4KVE]

I'm not touching the trigger on my 40c. Perfect for carry. Now if I only owned 1 gun, & I intended to target shoot with it, then yes, I would change the trigger. But since I have a 1911 with a hair trigger for target shooting, there is no need to modify the trigger on my carry gun. GARY

 

[NCW Ray]

OP - I think a good portion of the "Hate the stock trigger" crowd hates them because they've read on the interwebs that M&P's have a crappy trigger. So, if the interwebs say that it must be fact!

My M&P40, 40c & Shield 40 all have stock triggers.

 

[jwalts27]

Get a MA compliant M&P. Like pulling a brick with your pinky

 

[uechikid]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think if you are just looking for a more positive rest you can replace the slide stop/release with the new redesigned one.

 

[Bkreutz]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it was my understanding that having a trigger like the one on the M&P is good for defense because it will give you a "chance" to back off and not pull the trigger and kill someone that may not need to be killed, unlike a sensitive trigger that would go off immediately and not give you a chance to retreat on your decision. Is this true?

No, you should not be relying on the trigger pull weight (or travel) to give you a "chance" to change your mind. If you make the decision to draw your weapon, the next step should be to pull the trigger. Trigger weight won't matter with all that adrenalin coursing through your veins. I like the Apex trigger on my competition pistols because I don't like the two piece trigger that S&W uses.

 

[drewm@p40]

My only reason for adding apex parts is I live in mass and to be mass compliant they must have a10.5 pound trigger pull and as one poster previously said it's like trying to pull a brick with your pinky

 

[garyjandfamily]

For me the issue is that I'm trying to learn to shoot, and shoot well. I attend training and shoot IDPA as much as I can, but my main goal is not games. It's to really master my weapon.

The reasons that I replaced the stock action parts on my full-sized M&P 40 with an Apex Tactical Specialties DCAEK kit were:
1. The gritty stock-trigger pull didn't have a well-defined, clean break. I couldn't find and hold just below the break amid all of the grittiness. I found the stock trigger to make precision shooting (hostage scenerios, etc.) much harder than it should have been without the tactile feel of the break-point.
2. The trigger lacked a positive reset. Installing the DCAEK has really helped speed up my second shot!

I've put 7,000 rounds or so through the gun since the change, (I wouldn't want to count the dry-practice!), so I don't have any problem with reliability. I shoot mostly medium-velocity reloads (IDPA major power-factor of 165), not many full-strength self-defense loads. And the 5# trigger pull seems to be about right for a carry weapon. About the only thing I've done to the guts of the weapon since I installed the kit was to bend out the loop in the trigger bar where it contacts the sear, as the trigger break had crept back too far. Other than that (and wearing out two magazine catches), the gun's been a workhorse!

Now if you'll excuse me, I've got some dry-practice to do...

 

[AR-Getsome]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it was my understanding that having a trigger like the one on the M&P is good for defense because it will give you a "chance" to back off and not pull the trigger and kill someone that may not need to be killed, unlike a sensitive trigger that would go off immediately and not give you a chance to retreat on your decision. Is this true?

Wait....What?!?!?!? When you have your pistol drawn your finger is off the trigger. If your finger is on the trigger its means you are going to fire the pistol. There is no in between.

 

[Coaltminer]

I've never felt the need to modify the trigger on my 9c, bought it in 2010, I think, it's the most accurate auto I've ever owned, and had quite a few in a few decades. I usually shoot Smith revolvers in SA mode, and I don't find the M&P trigger objectionable. More comfortable for me than brand G.

 

[MichiganScott]

I've shot Smith and Wesson revolvers mostly double action since the early 1970's. There is nothing wrong with the M&P trigger.

When I want a well defined break and short reset I shoot a 1911.

 

[Johnmuratore]

As a couple of previous posters have said, if you live in Mass, what you get is a 10.5lb trigger pull. The first couple of times to the range with my 45c, my index finger started to cramp after a while. I could have lived with a little grittiness, no problem; but I couldn't shoot it accurately with that pull. The Apex kits are exceptionally well engineered and I've never seen anyone on this Forum complain about them being unreliable or problematic.

 

[27Veer]

I kept the stock trigger on my Sigs but had Bill Springfield do a trigger job on my H K LEM's, Rugger Cotton do my Glocks with the Maritime cup, and APEX all of my M&P.'s. APEX does the court defensible 5.5 trigger that literally breaks like a glass rod and the trigger reset is very distinguishable. At Tom Givens advanced instructor workshop the drills are so intense that you must know exactly where the trigger of your piece resents simply to stay up on the advanced drills. I am one of Mas Ayoob's senior instructors and have had to use my handgun twice in the past 10 years. (That was how I met Mas.) Having a piece of rescue equipment made perfect will not hurt you in court at all. He wants everyone to have a 4+ pound trigger pull and that is what we teach. As I said APEX has their carry trigger set at 5.5 lbs

 

[DeathF.above]

I plan on putting an apex kit in my 45c. My main reason is to shorten the over travel. Also, having a super smooth pull followed by a glass-like trigger break doesn't sound all that bad. I've done a lot of research on apex tactical and it sounds like Randy Lee and his team KNOW THEIR STUFF. I've spent 80 bucks on worse things.

 

[PAFMAN3]

I went with the APEX poly trigger for a reduction in extremely long take up, and now the trigger now has a decent take up a and a crisp break. I dont' feel the need for any additional upgrades. Still has the 6.5lb pull.