gtoppcop
Member
Guys,
Just getting into my latest gun project. I recently traded into a Model 22-4 (to keep my sister-in-law's 21-4 company).
I really like these old-style "Heavy Duty" sixguns. They are to my mind's eye one of the high water marks of the 'Combat Wheelgun'.
I have done a few things to her since I brought her home 10-days ago. After my obligatory detailed tear down and cleaning (it's a Marine thing), I set about to correct the enormous forces of trigger pull robbing friction.
It's been my experience that the new ILS-equipped guns require a modicum of work to achieve the same action as their pre-ILS brethren. The ILS lockwork protrudes somewhat into the left side of the hammer, making it rub. One can immediately tell that the the hammer is rubbing by the rub marks that cut into the hammer's finish.
I usually use 1-2 .003" hammer shims to correct. I also take off the protruberance of the ILS safety flag and stone it to where its smooth, so it doesn't rub. The ILS tumbler and spring (pictured) sit proud at .001" -.002". This is injurious to a nice, unfettered trigger pull.
Other things I do are to stone/polish the three sides of the rebound slide and its corresponding area inside the frame. This polishing and a 14 lbs rebound spring are about perfect for trigger actuation. The inside of the sideplate gets a quick stone and polish to remove high spots.
When doing the mainspring, I prefer to keep the original, lest ignition suffer. I do however, take off .002" -.003" of material off of the end of the strain screw to achieve the happy medium betwixt a decent trigger pull and ignition. In furtherance of ignition, I usually replace the stock firing pin with the Cylinder and Slide (or Power Custom) extended firing pin. This extra length assists in the ignition, especially with a "Moon Clip" gun where the space between the recoil shield and rear of the cylinder can vary with the thickness of the case heads and clips.
While I was doing the action work (I've been into it several times), I asked myself if the older forged triggers can be used. A mid-80s .312" smooth Combat Trigger yielded a nice looking FORGED trigger to the overall appearance (and function). I like thin rounded triggers on my DA guns. This fills the bill without me having to send it to Mag-Na-Port for their Combat Trigger package. It also has some nice Color Case marbling present, further adding to the 1950 Military appearance I want.
With the work I was able to do, I have a 9.5 lbs DA trigger pull. I don't shoot my DA guns SA, so the SA pull isn't consequential to me.
The things I have left to do are:
-- The addition of Kurac's N-Frame S/B Magna in French Walnut with emblems (S18)
-- The engraving of some script on the sideplate: "S&W .45 DA" or "1950 Military" or ".45 Heavy Duty"
-- The installation of a forged cylinder bolt to replace the MIM unit (I can't seem to polish the MIM unit enough to eliminate the ratchety feel when opening the cylinder.)
-- Long Term: The finding and installation of the Performance Center N-Frame "teardrop" forged hammer (like I had on my 325 TRR). Apparently, S&W won't sell this SKU to the unwashed masses: It must be provided and installed AT the Performance Center on a Performance Center firearm.
-- Send the cylinder off to Scott Mulkerin at SDM for his Competition Cylinder Chamfer for "Full Moon" clip guns
When I shot her last weekend, the 18 rounds of 230gr HST +Ps shot to the left about 3/4 of an inch and about 1-1/4 high. I know that these guns were hit or miss with the sights being regulated to start with.
This isn't bad. I just have to find the right load. I will start at 185gr bullets and work up. Often times, a lighter bullet will shoot to the sights. I have a feeling that she will shoot 185gr to 200gr bullets best. At household distances, 3/4 of an inch is still 'Minute of Felon'.
As the project progresses (in the coming weeks), I will post updates.
Question for the masses: What do you think about a Black Powder Chamfer and Lanyard Ring installed by Hamilton Bowen? Too much? I value your input. Thanks!
Just getting into my latest gun project. I recently traded into a Model 22-4 (to keep my sister-in-law's 21-4 company).
I really like these old-style "Heavy Duty" sixguns. They are to my mind's eye one of the high water marks of the 'Combat Wheelgun'.
I have done a few things to her since I brought her home 10-days ago. After my obligatory detailed tear down and cleaning (it's a Marine thing), I set about to correct the enormous forces of trigger pull robbing friction.
It's been my experience that the new ILS-equipped guns require a modicum of work to achieve the same action as their pre-ILS brethren. The ILS lockwork protrudes somewhat into the left side of the hammer, making it rub. One can immediately tell that the the hammer is rubbing by the rub marks that cut into the hammer's finish.
I usually use 1-2 .003" hammer shims to correct. I also take off the protruberance of the ILS safety flag and stone it to where its smooth, so it doesn't rub. The ILS tumbler and spring (pictured) sit proud at .001" -.002". This is injurious to a nice, unfettered trigger pull.
Other things I do are to stone/polish the three sides of the rebound slide and its corresponding area inside the frame. This polishing and a 14 lbs rebound spring are about perfect for trigger actuation. The inside of the sideplate gets a quick stone and polish to remove high spots.
When doing the mainspring, I prefer to keep the original, lest ignition suffer. I do however, take off .002" -.003" of material off of the end of the strain screw to achieve the happy medium betwixt a decent trigger pull and ignition. In furtherance of ignition, I usually replace the stock firing pin with the Cylinder and Slide (or Power Custom) extended firing pin. This extra length assists in the ignition, especially with a "Moon Clip" gun where the space between the recoil shield and rear of the cylinder can vary with the thickness of the case heads and clips.
While I was doing the action work (I've been into it several times), I asked myself if the older forged triggers can be used. A mid-80s .312" smooth Combat Trigger yielded a nice looking FORGED trigger to the overall appearance (and function). I like thin rounded triggers on my DA guns. This fills the bill without me having to send it to Mag-Na-Port for their Combat Trigger package. It also has some nice Color Case marbling present, further adding to the 1950 Military appearance I want.
With the work I was able to do, I have a 9.5 lbs DA trigger pull. I don't shoot my DA guns SA, so the SA pull isn't consequential to me.
The things I have left to do are:
-- The addition of Kurac's N-Frame S/B Magna in French Walnut with emblems (S18)
-- The engraving of some script on the sideplate: "S&W .45 DA" or "1950 Military" or ".45 Heavy Duty"
-- The installation of a forged cylinder bolt to replace the MIM unit (I can't seem to polish the MIM unit enough to eliminate the ratchety feel when opening the cylinder.)
-- Long Term: The finding and installation of the Performance Center N-Frame "teardrop" forged hammer (like I had on my 325 TRR). Apparently, S&W won't sell this SKU to the unwashed masses: It must be provided and installed AT the Performance Center on a Performance Center firearm.
-- Send the cylinder off to Scott Mulkerin at SDM for his Competition Cylinder Chamfer for "Full Moon" clip guns
When I shot her last weekend, the 18 rounds of 230gr HST +Ps shot to the left about 3/4 of an inch and about 1-1/4 high. I know that these guns were hit or miss with the sights being regulated to start with.
This isn't bad. I just have to find the right load. I will start at 185gr bullets and work up. Often times, a lighter bullet will shoot to the sights. I have a feeling that she will shoot 185gr to 200gr bullets best. At household distances, 3/4 of an inch is still 'Minute of Felon'.
As the project progresses (in the coming weeks), I will post updates.
Question for the masses: What do you think about a Black Powder Chamfer and Lanyard Ring installed by Hamilton Bowen? Too much? I value your input. Thanks!
I'd like to hear your updates and range reports as you progress.
Thank you for sharing and for the pictures! It is always wonderful to see the complete package and with such nice accessories!
