Opinions on 625 version to pursue?

[at_liberty]

I'm currently looking into purchasing a 625. The question comes down to which version. I'm looking at the 625-2, 625-3 and then the new production (i think 625-8) performance model.

I pretty much know the differences between them all. Pros for the old ones are collector value, cool factor of having an older gun. Forged hammer and triggers. No MIM parts. No lock. Cons are the unknown about a used gun. No warranty. Probably will cost more or about the same. This is my first revolver so any maintenance besides basic cleaning will be very difficult to me.

Pros for the new performance model version is I like the finish on them better. Another pro is I'm sure sure the trigger on it is much better. Get a warranty and piece of mind that I won't have any issues without having S&W backing me up if I do. Cons would be resale value, lack of a cool factor having a nearly 30 year old revolver.


Some info to help you, help me decide. For some reason, I like the fact that it's a collector and the value will increase. The question is, how much and does it really matter? If I decided to sell either one 20 years from now, would the 1989 version be worth quite a bit? If it still wouldn't be worth a lot, then it helps me lean away from that model.

As far as gun usage. Just fun, occasional range shooting. I'll take good care of either one. Wont be carried or used for self defense. Will be thorough with cleaning after each range visit. I say this now, but there's no guarantee: it would be nice to have something to pass down to children some day (don't have any yet).

And to complicate this more, I also plan on picking up a 44 Mag version down the line. So that may be a good opportunity to fill my need for a "classic older revolver" if I were to get a newer one now.

So what do you guys think is best for me?

Resale value should not be so much of a factor, since guns that have seen some use are usually bought by people looking for bargains. It would take a long time in that environment for the value of a non-c0llector grade specimen to inch up, and then it would have to be hard to find. That is my own assessment.

I have the 625 JM and 625 Performance Center. The 625JM ECM rifling would require running softer lead or jacketed/plated. The Performance Center likewise. but its cut rifling is less prone to leading for me. 45 ACP just doesn't run fast enough for hard cast but coated lead should work without barrel fouling.

The 625 PC has a nice action, but I had to have the forcing cone recut, because it was off axis and leading pretty badly. The 625JM benefitted from an action job and having throats opened a bit to better allow using lead bullets.

I had the ILS removed and keyhole plugged on both guns.

Here is a pic of both 625s together:

 

[keithherrington]

Based on what I see on auction sites, the prices for good condition -2's are about equal or possibly slightly more than the new PC versions. Given equal price, would you go with the new PC?

If you don't care about the internal lock then by all means do so. If you don't want the internal lock (I'll never own one) then look for one like mine. Be prepared to wait and to pay a premium price for a pre-lock JM Special.
Keith

 

[Englishrob]

I bought a 625-2 some 5 years ago after trying a friend's gun. It is a great target gun, clean crisp trigger. I use it for Steel plate, Tactical handgun (as well as my M&P 45) and for the occasional 'old school' 3-gun. I reckon I've put 10,000 rounds through it and it still works smoothly. I find it easy to clean and have carried our a full strip down twice with no problems.... just one replacement mainspring and a new set of Hogue grips.

 

[jtcarm]

cpher's gun is the one I've got my heart set on. That is one fine piece of .45 ACP goodness!

 

[BUFF]

I have a 5 inch 625-2 and a 4 inch 625-3, both of which I bought new, a 625-6 Mountain Gun, and a 625-10 PC. The older guns have the better trigger pulls, they smooth up very nicely with use and dry fire. I wouldn't worry about parts breaking, most everything is basic N frame and there are lots of parts around. The .45 ACP, even in Plus-P, isn't a very high pressure round, and is pretty easy on the guns.

Buy the version you like, with the features you want, at a price you can stomach, and don't look back. S&W .45 ACP revolvers are easy to resell if you find you want something different.

 

[aHFo3]

I was asking the same questions about the 625's a while ago. I ended up buying a clean 5" 625-4. I would've preferred an earlier version with roll stamps instead of laser etching, but this was too good to pass on.

 

[hd-dude]

I recently purchases a 625 PC. First thing I did was take off the clown suit grips and install a set of VZ grips. Then the gold dot front site was replaced with a Dawson fiber. I use the gun in IDPA and so far doing just ok with it. Trigger pull is very smooth with a nice stack up but a hard 10+ pounds in double action. I'm thinking about sending it out to Apex for one of there compition action jobs.

 

[regalsc]

Last year I found a 625-2 1988 model for sale on another forum & bought it. The previous owner had not shot it much maybe because he only had 5 moonclips & no moonclip tool. It is my first 45 acp revolver & so well made & accurate. Since then I have gotten 2 more 45 revolvers. It's my favorite range gun. The other 2 are airlite versions with 2.75" & 4" barrels that I sometimes carry.

 

[Wee Hooker]

I've had 5 model 25 /625's in my collecting years. All got sold off at some point or another for one cause or another. (Partially fueled by my loss of patience with moon clips) When I recently got the itch again, I went right to the top and bought a PC version. (Found a LNIB w moonclips and loader for $700 on GB ) Love the gun, hate the "fruitloops " stocks as they are just to thin for my hands. Once the gun got a new pair of Pachmyaer's, it's perfect. Haven't even felt the need to get into the trigger (which is rare for me.)

Personally, I doubt you'd be disappointed with any variant of the 625 as long as the trigger is decent.

PS. WHATEVER you get, invest in a decent loading tool. It makes the difference between enjoying the gun and making it a safe queen.

 

[Safestuffer]

My vote is for the 625-4...all the good, none of the bad.
I lucked into a 625-3 almost new in box with all the factory goodies for $650 a few months ago,
Since then I've been debating whether I want to drill and tap for a red dot sight...maybe if it were a little more beat up.
The 625-4 has the addition of being drilled and tapped from the factory.

 

[aHFo3]

Oh yeah, about the moon clips. I've been using Rimz plastic moonclips and they've been reliable. As a plus, I can load and unload without a tool!

 

[avery53]

Oh yeah, about the moon clips. I've been using Rimz plastic moonclips and they've been reliable. As a plus, I can load and unload without a tool!

I too use the RIMZ moon clips, they work great!

 

[STEVESKI]

Oh yeah, about the moon clips. I've been using Rimz plastic moonclips and they've been reliable. As a plus, I can load and unload without a tool!

Thanks! When I finally get my hands on one of these revolvers, I'll make sure to purchase some of these moon clips.

 

[JGR_LV]

If you're new to revolvers, particularly S&W revolvers, and thinking of shopping for a used one, your first purchase should be Jerry Kuhnhausen's classic THE S&W REVOLVER-A SHOP MANUAL, 5TH EDITION. It's about $35.00 new from Brownell's, and it can easily save you ten times that by keeping you from buying something with issues you don't want to deal with. Everyone who owns a S&W revolver should have this and read it cover to cover before ever taking out a sideplate screw.

That said, personally I prefer the older vintage guns. A Fifties-vintage Model 28, for instance, is typically smoother than a Seventies-vintage Model 27, and nearly as well finished on the outside. Just RTFM so you know what to watch out for when you're shopping.

 

[millerj7]

I have a 5" -4 and a 3" -3 and love them both. No problems with either, though the MIM parts in the -4 originally gave me pause. Turned out to be needless worry. I load for my 1911s and liked the option of a revolver with moon clips, but I find myself mostly shooting .45 Auto Rim after stumbling on to a large supply of Starline brass. Not to say there are any problems with moons, as I shoot plenty of them also...just another option (and don't even need different dies!) Good luck with your decision!
Jim

 

[STEVESKI]

I have a 5" -4 and a 3" -3 and love them both. No problems with either, though the MIM parts in the -4 originally gave me pause. Turned out to be needless worry. I load for my 1911s and liked the option of a revolver with moon clips, but I find myself mostly shooting .45 Auto Rim after stumbling on to a large supply of Starline brass. Not to say there are any problems with moons, as I shoot plenty of them also...just another option (and don't even need different dies!) Good luck with your decision!
Jim

Thanks for the response. Any opinion on whether you prefer the 3" or 5" for just fun range usage? I'm in talks with a couple different people and also scrounging auction sights and trying to pin down which version I really want. I know the older version 3" ones are more valuable so I definitely factor that into the equation, but I'm curious as to which I'd like more just from a fun, accuracy, balance/feel aspect of it. The 5" should be more accurate just due to the longer sight radius, but is the difference very noticeable? Does the shorter barrel make it balance better and decrease muzzle flip, making it easier to shoot quickly? I'm not looking for competition shooting, but hitting where I'm aiming would be nice too.

 

[millerj7]

Steve,
I prefer the 5" for range and fun use, mostly for the reasons you cited. Seems to hold steadier and not so "whippy" with stout loads. Can't tell a lot of difference in accuracy, but then I consider them suited for different purposes. Have shot bowling pins fairly consistently at 50 yards with the 5" but never tried with 3". 3" is usually loaded with Corbon +P (in moon clips) for a hunting sidearm or trips where a sidearm is needed for overnight stays in a motel room. The 3" versions seem to tend to be more expensive in the used market, too. There was also a 4" version early on, too, but I think you will be pretty happy with whatever you decide and it will not be the last!
Jim

 

[Kurt kaBOOM]

Love the 625 talk. I bought a -6 5" on GB, has less than 200 rounds through it. Hopefully I'll have it this week!

 

[finesse_r]

Either the 625-2 or the 625-3 are excellent versions in 3, 4, or 5 inch barrels. My personal favorite is the 625-2 in 3 inch barrel. These are still pretty easy to find in excellent condition and you will not pay much more than you pay for a dash 8, which I consider to be inferior in many respects.

So if you want the best 625 out there, take the time to find a quality dash 2, 3, or even 4.
But if you, like so many people, just have to have something new, then go for the 625-8.

 

[keithherrington]

Based on what I see on auction sites, the prices for good condition -2's are about equal or possibly slightly more than the new PC versions. Given equal price, would you go with the new PC?

Comes down to what you want to do with it. I went with the -2 because I could score higher with it in Bullseye. I don't shoot BE anymore so I'm happier with the JM Special. My BE guns were strictly utilitarian (except for my custom 38). Like a Ginsu steak knife, they got the job done very well but were not something I was emotionally attached to. The revolvers I have now are different.
Keith